12 posts tagged "Kim Jones"
Seven months in the making, Alfred Dunhill’s high-concept presentation in Shanghai last week was billed as the biggest event the brand has ever done. One thousand guests, most of them Chinese, took it in at the city’s New International Expo Center, where sounds of birds, crickets, and dripping rain set the mood. A gong and drums cued the handsome British violinist Charlie Siem, who played over a high-def digital animation that depicted a tree and lawn succumbing vividly to the changing seasons.
The 64 models donning topcoats and opening crisp umbrellas accordingly were, significantly, all Asian, albeit layered in gentlemanly clothes that could hardly have been more British: wingtip brogues, cashmere cardigans, leather driving gloves, extra-sharp velvet dinner jackets, and suits made of check-print flannel woven at a 250-year-old Somerset mill.
Since the departure of Kim Jones as creative director in 2010, reinventing the wheel hasn’t necessarily been a priority at Alfred Dunhill. (Somewhat pointedly, Jones still hasn’t been replaced.) And while Friday night’s high-tech spectacle recalls the go-go holographic runway show Burberry put on in Beijing a year ago, its flavoring was decidedly more romantic, more conservative.
But this is menswear. And Alfred Dunhill, which has more than 50 outlets in mainland China and has been established there for 25 years, perhaps has less to prove. “A lot of other brands are doing it to enter a market,” said the brand’s global marketing director (and the event’s designer), Jason Beckley. For the label, he suggested, Asia isn’t as new a frontier as it used to be. “It’s kind of funny. America is our emerging market.”
Forget the Red and the Black. Right now, it’s all about the Red and the Blue. The 2012 elections will mean a full year of face-off between the red Republicans and the blue Dems. All of a sudden, the red and blue Masai prints at Thakoon and Kim Jones’ men’s collection for Louis Vuitton are looking prescient. Showgoers at the men’s and Couture shows have been experimenting with primary-colored combinations, too, and now more designers are picking up on the theme. Giambattista Valli and Peter Copping at Nina Ricci have been pushing cardinal and cobalt with their pre-fall collections.
Soon, the Super Bowl will have Giants fans and Patriots supporters (like the queen of them all, Gisele Bündchen) squaring off in New York blue and New England red. But no need to pick just one. As the looks in our slideshow attest, it’s all in the mix.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW
Tonight in London, the British Fashion Council hosted its annual British Fashion Awards, with Kate Moss, Samantha Cameron, Colin Firth, and Marc Jacobs all on hand. Check back tomorrow for our complete coverage of the party scene. In the meantime, this year’s winners are below. A new category, the New Establishment, was created this year to recognize, in the words of the BFC, “a particular movement in British fashion that is taking the industry by storm”; Christopher Kane received the inaugural award. And for the second year running, the British Style Award, voted on by the public, went to Alexa Chung.
Designer of the Year: Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen
Menswear Designer of the Year: Kim Jones
Accessory Designer of the Year: Charlotte Dellal for Charlotte Olympia
Designer Brand of the Year: Victoria Beckham
Model of the Year: Stella Tennant
Emerging Talent—Womenswear: Mary Katrantzou
Emerging Talent—Menswear: Christopher Raeburn
Emerging Talent—Accessories: Tabitha Simmons
New Establishment Award: Christopher Kane
Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator: Sam Gainsbury, Gainsbury and Whiting
Red Carpet Award: Stella McCartney
Outstanding Achievement in Fashion Award: Sir Paul Smith
British Style Award: Alexa Chung
Fashion’s newest rock star is…a violinist? Acne Paper is the latest coup for the 25-year-old English virtuoso Charlie Siem, whose classical chops (and model good looks) are quickly making him into an a sensation. At a party last night at the Ritz in Paris for the launch of Acne Paper‘s 12th issue, editor Thomas Persson remembered first encountering Siem—via YouTube. “A friend of mine told me about Charlie and after I heard him play I knew I wanted to do an issue on youth and talent,” Persson said. “My grandfather was a violinist. He wasn’t at this level, of course, but I grew up in my grandparents’ house listening to this kind of music.”
In the new issue, Siem is shot by Andreas Larsson for one spread, and in another, by Bruce Weber, who imagines his 25th birthday party with a cast including actor Aaron Johnson, skateboarder Matt Giesler, and rugby player Paul Bester. Siem was on hand last night to play a few pieces for Couture-weary attendees like Alexa Chung, Francesco Vezzoli, Kim Jones, Philip Treacy, Delfina Delettrez Fendi, and stylist Hannes Hetta, who produced a moody shoot for the new issue with his sister, photographer Julia Hetta. Those expecting AM-dial classical got a jazzy, high-wire rendition of Antonio Bazzini’s Dance of the Goblins instead. (It also features on his new album.) “You can surprise people with a violin,” the handsome musician—who also stars as one of the faces of Dunhill’s Spring ’11 campaign, and recently appeared in VMan—said.
Change seems to be the order of the day in Paris. Louis Vuitton announced this morning that Paul Helbers, who has served as men’s studio director at Louis Vuitton, is to be replaced by the English-born designer Kim Jones (left). Jones will design the label’s menswear as men’s ready-to-wear studio and style director, under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs. Prior to Vuitton, Jones served as the creative director of Dunhill; he also showed his namesake collection at London fashion week and has worked or collaborated with companies such as Uniqlo, Mulberry, Alexander McQueen, Hugo Boss, Umbro, and Topman. The British Fashion Council has twice named the Central Saint Martins grad its Menswear Designer of the year, in 2006 and 2009.