3 posts tagged "Kinder Aggugini"
FGI’s Rising Stars, François Pinault Awarded France’s Highest Civilian Honor, Aretha Franklin To Marry, And More…
The Fashion Group International announced its 15th annual Rising Star Awards finalists this morning. The list includes Wes Gordon, Nary Manivong and Alexandria Hilfiger of NAHM, Simon Spurr, and Luis M. Fernandez of Number:Lab. Isabel and Ruben Toledo will be the keynote speakers at the January 26 event. [WWD]
Kinder Aggugini, who shows at London fashion week, is designing the costumes for the English National Ballet’s production of The Rite of Spring, debuting in London in March. “I guess it’s a bit like designing a Batman outfit, but in this case there was also a clear vision from one of the most revered British choreographers who created possibly the most successful version of this Ballets Russes piece,” Aggugini says of the project. [Telegraph]
François Pinault received France’s highest civilian decoration, the Grand Officer of the Legion of Honor, on New Year’s Day. Pinault joins a group of distinguished previous recipients, including Bernard Arnault, Christian Courtin-Clarins, and designer Jean-Claude Jitrois. [WWD]
Soul singer Aretha Franklin is engaged. Franklin, who is set to marry William “Willie” Wilkerson in Miami Beach in the summer, is reportedly “considering Donna Karan, Valentino, and the queen of wedding dresses, Vera Wang,” for her dress designer. [People]
High/low collaborations have become as ubiquitous as celebrity “designed” lines. But Macy’s latest foray in the designer-meets-mass retailer sphere is left-field enough to get our attention. The department store approached the Italian-born, London-based talent Kinder Aggugini (left)—a growing presence in London, but still a relative unknown, internationally speaking—for a capsule collection. “I was 100 percent terrified of the idea at first,” Aggugini admitted at the line’s preview atop the Gramercy Park Hotel last night. “I went and did some research and there were some awful collaboration lines out there—all this polyester. But then I saw how Alber did it for H&M and thought, ‘That’s it. It’s not about creating something cheaper. It’s about creating a new product altogether.’ “
“I was inspired by these British girls who would go to rock ‘n’ roll gigs and Glastonbury in their mother’s old couture dresses that they’d cut into these short minis,” the designer explained. The Versace and Vivienne Westwood alum, who’s known for unconventional prints and tailored little jackets, set out to emphasize natural fibers, including silk chiffons, cottons, and merino wools. For the collection, he imported the spirit—and a few key prints, like his signature polka dots—from his main line. Standout pieces include a black silk chiffon romper ($88), a dip-dyed silk floral frock ($88), and a remarkably well-constructed linen military jacket with metallic tweed trim ($128). The range tops out at $300, with prices starting as low as $50.
Aggugini will have to wait until February 15 to see if the Brit style will translate to American shoppers; the collection will be in Macy’s stores and online for eight weeks before another, yet-to-be-announced designer capsule collection will roll out for the next two months. (Karl Lagerfeld’s buzzy collaboration is slated for September.) But early indicators are good: Preview guests Hilary Rhoda and Parsons’ Simon Collins gave their approval. As Collins pointed out, “The difference between designs from a London designer and what a woman in America might wear aren’t so great. Fashion’s all quite global these days.”
“Giving back” is a charitable principle that fashion designers usually apply to the outside world, rather than others of their kind. But Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are playing fairy godfathers to a platoon of up-and-comers with their latest project, Spiga2. The name refers to the address of their accessories store in Milan, the top floor of which they’ve turned into a bazaar of new-ish design names that they personally curated, mostly by internet, from all over the world (Stefano can’t stop tweeting). Actually, the governing notion was a bottega, a store where everything is thrown together with minimal merchandising and maximal human touch. Spiga2 is a funkfest compared to the high-gloss emporia that rule Milan’s Golden Triangle. There’s a DJ spinning, and tables where you can hang out, log on (free wireless—plus old school reading matter too), or watch the designers’ videos.
The wildly eclectic mix spans the globe, and includes names familiar—Sophie Theallet, Kinder Aggugini, Martin Grant, Peter Jensen, Behnaz Sarafpour—and less so. For instance, Erkan Coruh won the “Who’s On Next?” fashion competition in Italy this year, and Spiga2 is his first distribution anywhere in the world. Domenico and Stefano were so keen to have him on board that they bought his samples.
Many of those who were chosen had the same kind of tale to tell. Brussels-based Marc Philippe Coudeyre launched his business a year ago. His first contact with Dolce and Gabbana was a message that went into his spam folder. He thought it was a joke. So did Gail Sorronda when she got her e-mail. She’s from Brisbane, Australia, and this is her third season. “When it happened, it felt like an out-of-body experience,” she says. “In high school, my mum bought me the ’10 Years of Dolce’ book and I used it as reference.”
“It’s huge,” agrees New Yorker Heather Williams, the only shoe designer in the bunch, who has had her own label for two years, after 11 years doing shoes for the likes of Calvin Klein. “Domenico and Stefano’s attitude is that ‘there’s room for everybody’, and not many people share that mentality. And it’s a nice sign that they didn’t do consignment.” Yep, first time ’round, Dolce and Gabbana asked their picks to select their own favorite pieces from their collections, then bought them, rather the more predictable goods-on-consignment route. That’s the kind of hardcore support that counts for a young business.
It’s not entirely philanthropic: Dolce & Gabbana accessories are subtly incorporated in the product mix. But in the context of notoriously parochial Italy, where fashion from anywhere else takes a backseat, the whole concept has a real kick. And the fashion week mobs who came to browse and stayed to buy were proof that Domenico and Stefano’s vision was paying genu-wine dividends for their proteges.