3 posts tagged "Kostas Murkudis"
Achtung-Mode—Germany’s pioneering indie fashion and culture magazine—is debuting its Bauhaus-themed tenth anniversary issue tomorrow. And to celebrate the decade milestone, founder Markus Ebner decided he wanted to offer up a little something special. “When magazines turn ten, or twenty, or whatever, there’s not that much you can do,” he told Style.com. “I mean, you can do ten covers, you can ask designers to write letters saying, ‘Dear Whoever, Happy Tenth Anniversary!’, but I wanted to do something not like that.” His answer? A capsule collection of ten special-edition items crafted—and photographed—by some of the most exciting German, Austrian, and Swiss brands and talents. For instance, there’s a luxe leather bag by Akris (snapped by Sandra Semburg), a suit by Regent that was handmade in Germany (shot by Michael Mann, below, left), a crisp white shirt by the legendary Jil Sander (lensed by Mary Scherpe, below, right), an amulet by Tomas Maier (shot by Oliver Helbig), a parka by Kostas Murkudis (captured by Jork Weismann) and some cashmere Agnona socks by honorary German, Stefano Pilati (photographed in a field by Debora Mittelstaedt). “He’s been living in Berlin for the last year and a half, and he’s such an important designer, and he’s opening a studio there and hiring people, so that’s exciting for us,” offered Ebner.
The items will be available at Andreas Murkudis’ Berlin concept store, which Ebner describes as the “Colette of Germany.” As for the editorial photographs of the anniversary merch, they’ll not only be included in the new issue, but displayed alongside their corresponding products Murkudis’ store. If you’re lusting over these creations, you’d better scoot to Berlin quickly as quantities are limited. Fittingly, only ten editions of each product were produced.
Since signing on as Closed’s creative director last year, Kostas Murkudis has taken the Italian-born (but now German-based) label in a refreshing new direction. While the line is famed for its raw selvedge denim, Murkudis has been focusing on an accompanying range of ready-to-wear, which this season was inspired by Brazil and “Urban Tropicalism.” What does that mean, exactly? For starters, the Spring ’14 lineup included plenty of street-ready separates in punchy, tropical hues. White, yellow, or cerulean waffle knits were overlaid with sheer organza for an on-trend, sporty look, a tracksuit was covered in an electric-blue-and-violet photo print, and simple skirts and silky shorts looked as though they were plucked off a luxe soccer field. Leather tops and frocks were hole-punched to create a mesh effect—this same technique was used on a particularly slick bomber. Here, the perforated leather was lined with fabric in cobalt and emerald hues. Meanwhile, neoprene coats in white or turquoise had a tech appeal, and in one instance, a two-toned jacket-and-trousers ensemble—cut from the brand’s signature denim—was made to look like a jogging suit.
Murkudis’ influences manifested themselves most interestingly in a series of embroidered silk kimono-sport-jacket hybrids. Offered in long and short styles, the toppers—some of which featured stripes down the sleeves—were reportedly inspired by Brazil’s thriving Japanese communities. “The collection is a mélange of sportswear, utility, and fashion,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It goes back to the initial concept of Closed…[and] the fact that I can use the codes of uniforms and…cultural backgrounds is very inspiring,” he added.
A spot-on Spring ’14 isn’t all the label is celebrating this season. Tomorrow, Closed will open its first Paris store, which is set at 18 rue du Poitou, in the third arrondissement. Murkudis explained that selling “and proudly showing our products—almost all of which are handmade—in the fashion capital is the next logical step in order to develop in the European market.” The boutique—a sneak peek at which debuts exclusively above—is clean, classic, and minimal, just like Closed’s aesthetic. The Closed crew will celebrate the milestone tomorrow via a fete with Olivier Zahm and Purple magazine. In fact, the brand has even teamed with Zahm on a limited-edition pair of jeans, which are, of course, dyed purple.
Type “Kostas Murkudis” into Style.com’s search engine, and just two results pop up. The Berlin-based designer—who worked for many years alongside Helmut Lang, and who has run his own eponymous label since1994—signed on as creative director of the German sportswear brand Closed last year. He won’t be operating under the radar much longer. On Friday, Murkudis teamed with his longtime friend, the artist Carsten Nicolai, to present his first capsule collection for Closed, dubbed Skywalk, at Gallery Weekend Berlin. Nicolai provided the video, a hypnotic twelve-minute clip culled from twelve years of photographs he took from the window seats of airplanes, and Murkudis contributed the clothes, a utilitarian range of pieces, for both women and men, inspired by a vintage aviator jumpsuit. There are jersey tees and button-front shirts covered with zips and, of course, a flight suit, but the stars are the trench, made from a denim-like twill fused with superfine mousseline (above), and a leather bomber that reverses to the same twill.
The jackets and coats in his main collection for Closed are likewise worth getting excited about. The thirty-five-year-old brand, which at different times was headed up by François Girbaud and Martin Margiela, has long been denim-focused. “I want to go back to the roots, to make clear what Closed was,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It was the first brand to do designer denim; there was just Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler. The mix of denim, utilitarian, and sporty elements is quite key to Closed’s DNA.” Look for Murkudis’ debut collection for Closed when Fall collections begin arriving at Fred Segal and American Rag in Los Angeles, and for Skywalk at Project No. 8 in New York. And don’t miss our Gallery Weekend Berlin photo report.