14 posts tagged "Kris Van Assche"
The Fall ’14 menswear collections have marched down the catwalk in London, Florence, and Milan, and are now under way in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Dior Homme, designed by Kris Van Assche
WHEN: Saturday, January 18
WHAT: “This is probably the most Monsieur Dior collection I’ve done. In many ways I put the idea of the man, the individual, in front of the brand.”—Kris Van Assche. The designer sent us a pair of Winter ’14 inspiration images, both of which feature Monsieur Dior, above.
Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci traveled to New York this week to present his new Pre-Fall collection to the press. But like several other designers of late (among them Calvin Klein Collection’s Italo Zucchelli and Dior Homme’s Kris Van Assche), Tisci is promoting not only his women’s pre-collection, but one for men, too. “This collection comprises the ten essential looks for the Givenchy man,” he told Style.com about the men’s line, which features tribal prints and geometric details, as well as new plays on bleached denim. “The techno-ethnic print is taken to another level, particularly with the new Rave bag. The overall feeling this season is elegant, yet urban.” The range picks up some of the same notes as the African-inspired menswear collection for Spring ’14, but also that of the women’s Spring ’14 offering. Cross-pollination is a Tisci tried-and-true, which should make it no surprise that he hinted that polo shirts debuting now as part of women’s Pre-Fall will find new life in the men’s Fall ’14 collection in a few weeks.
The complete men’s Pre-Fall ’14 collection debuts exclusively on Style.com. Click here for the full slideshow.
Dior can smell a trend in the offing. The label’s artistic director for menswear, Kris Van Assche—as well as, presumably, his corporate bosses—sensed the growing importance of pre-collections for menswear and have begun to treat them with the pomp and circumstance formerly accorded to Fall and Spring. “At the start, a few seasons ago, these pre-collections were basically pre-deliveries of the main collections,” Van Assche told Style.com. “But now, with their strong commercial success, I understood the need for four independent, freestanding collections a year. We have now started calling these in-between collections Spring and Autumn, and the show collections Summer and Winter. These independent pre-collections tell a whole new story, away from the runway. I chose to present them to the press through catalogs, videos, and installations, like the one we had in Omotesando, Japan, in November, for the Spring collection.”
The story Van Assche set out to tell for Autumn—what other labels call Pre-Fall—is about an art student from Antwerp or Berlin. (Van Assche is Belgian himself and graduated, in his student days, from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.) His wardrobe mixes the tailored pieces Dior Homme is famous for with more of the youth-inflected sportswear that’s a particular Van Assche fascination—sometimes in the same garment. (Blazer sleeves can be narrowed or expanded by zippers like those found on biker jackets, for example.) “His wardrobe is composed of various pieces bought on different occasions,” he says, “A blazer, a leather biker jacket, a bright red duffle coat, some knits, the typical ‘art student’ narrow black jeans, and, of course, black combat boots.”
There’s a new graphicism to some of the items, from printed suits to printed shirts, the latter of which owe a debt to the graphics of new wave (“which the art student would obviously be listening to”). But the main innovation of the collection is that, fittingly to its more commercial bent, it was conceived as separate, sales-friendly pieces. “The newest thing for me as a design concept,” Van Assche said, “was to think not in total looks but in strong separate pieces, and then make them work as an outfit.” The Autumn collection debuts exclusively on Style.com.
The Spring ’14 menswear shows are winding down in Paris, and before their wares hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our complete collection of Spring ’14 previews is available here.
WHO: Dior Homme, designed by Kris Van Assche
WHEN: Saturday, June 29
WHAT: “Just think how you negotiate wearing a tuxedo on a beach: Spring ’14 is the answer. It’s formality & informality: choice, chance & lightness.” —Kris Van Assche. The designer sent us a snap of his Spring ’14 inspirations, above.
The party season started off with a bang last night in Beijing, when Dior Homme held its first-ever fashion show in China. A bevy of Chinese boldfaced names—like media mogul Hung Huang and “China’s number-one heartthrob,” Huang Xiaoming—headed to the Central Academy of Fine Arts’ Art Museum to view Kris Van Assche’s Fall 2013 presentation.
“I love the momentum of China, and Beijing seemed the right choice, since we had already staged some events in Shanghai,” Van Assche told Style.com. The show was a reprisal of the collection that debuted in Paris in January. Half of the models were cast locally, as was the show’s unexpected star—a black bat that swooped in and circled the runway.
Postshow, everyone migrated downstairs, where champagne and a performance by Hurts awaited. Naturally, the band was dressed in head-to-toe Dior Homme. “I think they are a great representation of contemporary dandyism,” Kris Van Assche said of the duo. Things got festive around 12:30 a.m., when some models challenged other merrymakers to a dance-off. Of course, no fashion fete is complete without an after-party. In this case, revelers were ferried off to Mesh, the hip bar inside The Opposite House hotel, where that oft-parodied phrase “models and bottles” actually rang true.