26 posts tagged "Lacoste"
After dropping off the Paris fashion week schedule last week, WWD reports that Felipe Oliveira Baptista may not return to the catwalk for several seasons—if ever. The ready-to-wear label announced that it is suspending production for an “undetermined period.” Baptista likely will direct much of his attention to Lacoste, where he serves as creative director, but also suggested that he and his wife, Séverine Oliveira Baptista (who is also the line’s cofounder), may “venture into another design or creative field” as well. “It’s the end of a chapter, not the book,” the designer said.
Felipe Oliveira Baptista, who celebrated the tenth anniversary of his eponymous range last year, has reportedly canceled the Fall ’14 show for his namesake line, which was scheduled for February 26. According to WWD, the decision to skip the runway was made so Baptista could focus on Lacoste, where he has served as artistic director since 2010. As of now, Baptista has no plans to shutter his signature collection.
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Portuguese-born, Paris-based designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista’s eponymous line. And to celebrate, Lisbon’s Design and Fashion Museum (MuDe) has asked him to put on a retrospective, which opens tonight and runs through February 16. Together with famed set designer Alex de Betak, Baptista—who created quite a buzz three years ago when he replaced Christophe Lemaire as the creative director of Lacoste—has put together a high-concept show that he hopes will tell the story behind his clothes. In addition to a comprehensive selection of the designer’s clean, sometimes severe, sometimes light-as-air looks from the past decade, Baptista and Betak have built an electronic brain of sorts that showcases his inspiration images, photographs, and sketches on a cluster of screens. “I think it’s really interesting to show people what they never see,” offered Baptista, who did stints at Max Mara and Cerruti before launching his own line in 2003. “I thought it was interesting to show them where it comes from, and how it gets there.” Here, Baptista talks to Style.com about the exhibition, his anniversary, and how he’s watched fashion change—for better and for worse.
Ten years is quite a milestone. When you first launched your line, is this where you thought you’d be a decade down the road?
I think when you start, you have to be aware that the chances of surviving the first five years are slim. It’s quite reassuring to arrive here, and it’s been exciting to experience this progression. And when Lacoste arrived three years ago, it was a big revolution in my life. It’s more than anything I expected.
How do you feel that the role of the fashion designer has changed over the past ten years?
It’s changed a lot. The rhythm has changed. When I first started working fifteen years ago, in all the houses I worked in we had two collections, and then three arrived, and then more and more and more collections, more fashion weeks, more of everything. Sometimes, you need some time to get a little perspective. On the other hand, it’s very exciting and fast-paced. But I always manage to escape into museums and see things. Trying to find some moments to breath is quite important.
Do you prefer the fast pace, or do you miss the old days?
Sometimes I wish that we could have more time to go in depth and try to do the best as we can. It’s funny, because when you talk to people from the industry, almost everyone complains a little bit about these things. [The fashion cycle] is a machine that I think no one can fight.
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
Things began to heat up at the French Open in Paris yesterday, as Jo-Wilfried Tsonga defeated Roger Federer, raising hopes for a hometown win. (The last time that happened was thirty years ago, when national icon Yannick Noah took home the trophy.)
Meanwhile, inside the French Tennis Federation’s museum, Lacoste invited a handful of guests to preview trophies of a different kind. To mark its eightieth birthday, the brand invited nine French luxury houses to interpret its crocodilian heritage—Hermès checked in with a tennis satchel in shiny pale green croc; Goyard with a roomy travel bag, and Boucheron with bejeweled renditions of the house logo. The idea was lying in wait in the archives, noted Boucheron creative director Claire Choisne: As it turns out, house founder René Lacoste commissioned a shimmering croc from Boucheron for his wife, Simone, in 1957.
This morning, the lineup was already packed up and headed to Colette, where it will grace the windows starting on Monday. But while some things, like the silver golf club by Christofle or those Boucheron pins, can be special ordered, others, like the Hermès and Goyard bags, are unique: The next time you’ll see them is when the Lacoste museum opens at its home base, in Troyes, sometime in 2014. Still, there is one accessible option for everyone: polo-striped éclairs by Fauchon, which will be available through June.