2 posts tagged "LC: M"
“The Mayfair boy has gotten a bit comfortable and has gotten a bit daring,” Jimmy Choo creative director Sandra Choi told us after the brand’s first full-on men’s runway show in London. Citing British photographer John Deakin’s black-and-white street portraits as a starting point for the Spring 2015 collection of mint green, croc-stamped deck shoes and patent loafers, she added, “He wants to venture out, definitely beyond the center of London. There’s more grit, but he’s relaxed.”
The overall look was dressed down, partly thanks to Katie Grand, who styled the shoes and bags with easy separates. A closer look at the shoes, however, revealed thoughtful details that were anything but casual. There were shiny silver and gold sneaker soles that, apparently, are treated in such a way to prevent fade. And that multicolored airbrushed accenting applied to a high-top dubbed Belgravia was no mere runway novelty: When the shoes hit stores, no two will be identical. As for the 3-D injection molded rubber brogue ornamentation on the toe caps of a traditional lace-up, Choi described it as “pure, but rich at the same time.”
The overall street theme left little room for polished dress shoes, save for the printed jacquard slipper topped with an emerald green tassel. Those had the most refined construction of the lot.
Nicholas Kirkwood’s debut presentation for his men’s line came via his S/S 2015 outing at London’s Mercer Street Studios, where derbies, oxfords, and brogues took center stage. The standout detail was the chevron sole, a pattern that has become a bit of a signature for the designer. (It even once appeared on the Galaxy Note 3 phone flip-cover for his collaboration with Samsung.) Is the chevron pattern becoming Kirkwood’s red sole? “Not quite,” the designer told Style.com. “Mr. Louboutin uses [red] on all his soles, while my chevron made a cameo as an accent on just a few of the styles. I just really love the modernity of the pattern.”
Designed “for the bloke whose girlfriend loves to wear great shoes,” Kirkwood’s collection has something for everyone, including a few very cool sandals. Of the sandals, which are new to the Kirkwood repertoire, one male observer at the presentation said to his friend, “Man, these are dope.” We agree with him on that.
The designer also told us his newish alliance with LVMH helped him not only cut through the tiresome admin, but enabled him to “undertake more testing, experiment with more materials, and develop the collection further.” That came through loud and clear with some innovative uses in leather, including shoes with high-shine spazzolato leather, as well as rubberized and foil-laminated leathers. Untrammeled creativity continued with splashes of neon and very cool colors, like blush pink and mint green. Then there were candy-stripe accents, basket-weave details, and contrasting orange lace details—all of which had just enough high-fashion elements to make that girlfriend jealous, but then pulled back a bit just when it was heading over the top. It was an enlightened offering that underscored Kirkwood rightful membership in the LVMH club.