4 posts tagged "Liam Hodges"
Long gone are the days when skirts on men used to shock. Now we have aprons, dangly double tribal earrings, balaclavas, and patent-leather chokers. Or, at least, that’s what we saw at Fashion East’s Fall ’14 menswear installations in London today. Lulu Kennedy’s emerging-designer initiative welcomes three new talents this season: jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirtmaker Massimo Casagrande, and CSM grad Nicomede Talavera (above, left) join Fashion East veterans Tom Ryling (above, right) and Liam Hodges. These three may be freshmen, but they each offered that daring, eyebrow-raising edge that has become synonymous with the platform.
Talavera cited artist Robert Morris as inspiration, but his lineup felt more Star Trek: The Original Series. Graphic, Spock-like sweaters, leather chokers, too-long spliced pant hems over Vans, three-quarter-length aprons draped just so, and color-blocked details reminded us why the word directional was probably invented for Fashion East. Casagrande took cues from artist Adam McEwen’s photographs of New York sidewalks and turned out wares with studs, graphics, and rubber details.
Farahmand, who used to work with Dominic Jones, looked like she had the Fast and the Furious on her brain—speed was her Fall ’14 theme. Tattooed models with menacing haircuts and even scarier oversize knuckle-dusters were draped over fast cars, showing off her rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Amusing under-the-armpit body harnesses and straps over trainers looked so cool, we didn’t care if there was a purpose behind them—and we were too afraid to ask.
Ryling, meanwhile, put balaclavas on his models. He also showed some great graffitied and paint-splattered jean jackets, and trousers with red chiffon overlays. Rounding it out was Hodges, who carried on his theme from last season—no “high-borns,” please. Steel-toed workman boots, lashings of electrical tape, cracked leather, hoodies, and boxy silhouettes made Hodges’ boys look like they were ready to rumble at any time.
It’s that time of year again…no, we’re not talking about holiday cheer and cozy family get-togethers. We’re referring to the menswear collections, which will kick off in London on January 6. Today, Lulu Kennedy’s young designer platform Fashion East announced its Fall ’14 men’s lineup, which will feature returning talents Liam Hodges and Tom Ryling, as well as newcomers including jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirt-maker Massimo Casagrande, and Nicomede Talavera (left), a Central Saint Martins graduate who will present his ready-to-wear collection with the initiative. And this season the menswear platform, which was founded in 2012, will have a little extra kick, thanks to a new collaboration with Red Bull Catwalk Studio. Given the jet lag, sleepless nights, and general feeling of exhaustion that tend to accompany fashion weeks, we hope the sponsorship means complementary energy drinks.
If the seven designers featured in Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East menswear installation have anything in common, it’s that not one of them is a shrinking violet. Color, chaos, and cartoons burst forth, with Joseph Turvey (above) and Kit Neale paving the way. Neale, who once worked with Gareth Pugh, paid homage to Peckham (a part of London that makes Shoreditch seem absolutely gentrified) by printing a cartoonish map of the neighborhood on trousers. Turvey explained that he “loves flowers,” and there they were, blooming on a range of shirts. His explosive hues also turned up on a pair of baggy, Rothko-inspired trousers, and on the models’ hair, which was dyed pink and green.
Liam Hodges—whose models were getting a morning beer buzz while wearing his knitted, “garish,” multicolored stadium ponchos—told us that he creates “luxury that doesn’t cater to the highborns.” Meanwhile, Craig Green—the MAN designer who famously customized David Beckham’s Adidas sneakers for the Olympic celebrations—showcased a painterly range of footwear (below), which he made in collaboration with Purified. “I think these shoes will sell like crazy,” said Kennedy, adding that they were a smart way to subtly incorporate color into one’s look.
Another uniting aspect of the collections was a military theme. Meadham Kirchhoff showed vintage military footage during their presentation upstairs, and Marques’Almeida—which debuted its first menswear outing—displayed navy-and-black-camo denim looks with unfinished hems. To cap it off—literally—Tom Ryling’s models wore military berets, which for more than one onlooker evoked an image of Prince Harry in uniform.
While watching over her talents, Lulu offered a little bit of insight into this season’s LC:M. “I’ve seen things normally reserved for women, like floral, lace, and frills,” she said. “For sure, the fashion types will wear it. But really, these details are all so incredible, I hope they will trickle down into the mainstream.” Here’s hoping, Lulu.
London Collections: Men kicks off June 16, and while it might only be the platform’s third stint on the international scene, Spring ’14 marks Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East’s tenth Menswear Installations. The emerging-designer initiative’s latest lineup includes newcomer Liam Hodges, as well as alums Kit Neale (left), Joseph Turvey, and art director Tom Ryling. Also participating this time around is returning talent and MAN designer Craig Green, as well as Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida, who, having already received NEWGEN support for their womenswear collection, will debut their first menswear range this season.