19 posts tagged "Linda Fargo"
It seems the days of the reclusive designer are over. “I live the life of your typical designer,” Roland Mouret told Style.com over tea at Bergdorf Goodman yesterday. “I’m traveling all the time whether I wake up in Boston”—his previous stop—”Hong Kong, or New York, but I love it. The beauty is you get to meet your customer.” The London-based designer was in town for a one-day pit stop to introduce his exclusive collaboration with the storied retailer: 17 pre-Spring 2011 dresses (left) including cap-sleeved sheaths and sleeveless shifts in navy, charcoal, cerise, or our favorite, a lovely mustard. Prices hover in his usual price range: $1,770 to $2,295.
“It’s been an interesting project of mine for the last two or three years to work with retailers and have them involved in the design process,” Mouret elaborated. “I went over the color and fabric options available with Linda [Fargo (below, with Mouret)]. If anything, they know their customer the best.” This Bergdorf collection is only the latest positive development in Mouret’s re-ascension this fall. He’s ecstatic about reacquiring the right to use his name this past September (having lost it for a time due to trademark issues) and is now working on his first ever flagship, a six-story Mayfair structure that will serve as his maison and offices as well, slated to open in February 2011. “Saying goodbye to my initials is like saying goodbye to a good friend,” he mulled of his interim brand name, RM by Roland Mouret. “It’s served me so well.” That’s not to say that RM might not resurface in the future. “It would have to be something really special,” Mouret said. Perhaps a line for the masses? “I would never do a diffusion line,” he stated. “I don’t think the future is that. People mix brands all the time already, so you need to do something else. We are living in a different fashion world now.”
Every merchandiser in the world is confronted with the same quasi-existential question. In the words of Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s SVP of women’s fashion and store presentation: “We’re always like, ‘How do you show handbags?’ “
If you’re Fargo and her visuals deputy, David Hoey, BG’s senior director of visual presentation, you construct a Dalí-esque woman with a nine-foot arm and load her down with a closet’s worth of bags. Or put a sparkling evening bag on the arm of a prehistoric dinosaur. Or bisect a Bottega Veneta-clad mannequin, in trippy, M.C. Escher style, with a pile of intrecciato purses. Or any of the many eye-popping ways Fargo and Hoey have dreamed up for their Fifth Avenue windows over the decade-plus that they’ve been working together. They’ve helped make Bergdorf’s windows some of the best in the business, and in tribute, Assouline is publishing an enormous tome—less coffee-table book than coffee table—chronicling the best of their efforts, with appreciative commentary from the likes of Alber Elbaz, George Lois, Bette Midler, and Lynn Yaeger. On the occasion of the new book, available this January, and the unveiling of their latest holiday windows at Bergdorf Goodman, Style.com spoke with the duo about the good, the great, and the overstuffed in the art of fine window dressing. The proof of success? “Definitely people come in and are so inspired, they’ll have to buy a gown,” Fargo says with a laugh. “Sometimes it’s a little bit tricky for us, because we’ll have something very embedded in the window. We try to get them to wait until the window comes out.” A condensed and edited version of our chat is below, with a few of our favorite windows from days gone by.
OK, to start with, the unavoidable question: Which is your favorite window that you’ve done?
Linda Fargo: Don’t even ask me about a favorite. I knew you were going to say that. We produce about 300 to 350 designs a year. You can only imagine how many images there are…it’s a bit of playing Sophie’s Choice.
Really honestly, I don’t have favorites. Each one has a production story, each one has an aha moment that you recall. They each have some anecdote about them which endears them to you. I have a little bit of a favorite in there—it’s the foldout [in the book], the kind of Salvador Dalí figure with the ultra-long arm. That was one that David [Hoey] designed. We have a certain type of window which is extra-wide, versus our Fifth Avenue windows, which are extra-tall. And I think it was this ingenious use of the space—to come up with this woman with this eight-foot, nine-foot-long arm, resting like Salvador Dalí and that little cane, a crutch really, at the end of the arm. We were invited by the Cooper-Hewitt to put that in their design triennial, so David completely reinstalled that at the Cooper-Hewitt. So that one, I’m very fond of. [But] there’s really so many.
David Hoey: We tend to play with extremes. We deliberately overstuff the window…there are several examples in the book, the page of the book can barely contain even the sheer quantity of stuff. I’ll collect things in certain categories, and turn a window out of it. And we don’t quit when we’re ahead—we keep going. My favorite windows are the extreme ones, either unbelievably overstuffed, or it’s one where you hardly do anything, but it’s startling nevertheless.
David, you have a great line in the book: “What we avoid is mediumism.”
DH: Steer clear of the middle. Also, don’t even out your budgets. Do extravaganzas and then do something very simple. The whole point of everything is surprise. We’re sort of in the surprise business. If you’re gonna get somebody’s attention you can’t be beige-y. Continue Reading ““How Do You Show Handbags?”” »
Is Karl campaigning for mayor of Saint-Tropez? Following Chanel’s Resort show there last month, the label has now opened a temporary store on site, too. Louis Vuitton, not to be outdone, has opened a new, larger store on the Riviera, too. [WWD]
Bergdorf held its first “virtual” trunk show this week, with W‘s Alex White and BG fashion director Linda Fargo chatting with Akris’ Albert Kriemler via Skype. “OMG” seems the only rational response. [WSJ]
The New York Times investigates Milan menswear’s preoccupation with the gigolo. Rent boys, big in ’11? (And because we need no better excuse, here’s the original—Gere in American Gigolo—left.) [NYT]
Tommy Hilfiger, the newly appointed world leader of the nonprofit Millennium Promise, will address 1,000 chief officers at the U.N. tomorrow to discuss initiatives to end world hunger. [WWD]
And Refinery29 offers a peek at the Fall ’10 range from accessory designer and newly minted CFDA award winner Alexis Bittar. What to expect: geometric designs, gunmetal grays, and antlers. Price on request for that antler piece, which presumably doesn’t include the cost of any sweaters it may snag and ruin. [R29]
Bras, corsets, tap pants, and briefs were exposed all over the Spring runways, with unexpected designers like Akris‘ Albert Kriemler joining lingerie lovers such as Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano at the panty party. No doubt about it, innerwear as outerwear is one of the season’s top trends. But does the look work off the catwalk? Can you really show up to a meeting dressed as Madonna in her Like a Virgin phrase? We asked the experts.
“Naturally, I’m not hoping to see a lot of inappropriate bare skin and literal lingerie showing in the workplace,” says Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo. “I’m foreseeing a spike in lace-edge slips emerging from hemlines and sheer, pretty hosiery again.” However, if you are thinking literal, “the best way to wear lingerie is to take it out of context,” explains Fabiola Beracasa, who’s been known to rock a black corset over a white tee. “And make sure it’s delicate and expensive-looking, not trashy,” says stylist Kate Young. Her Spring pick? Stella McCartney‘s plunge-front nude lace halter. A couple of hard and fast rules: Exposed elastic bra straps are a no-no, only silk will do (Jean Yu); and if you do experiment with transparency, don’t leave home without a jacket (Kelly Cutrone). And, finally, this from a master of the seductive arts, Domenico Dolce: “Don’t be too audacious. Save something for the imagination.”
Click for a slideshow, then share your thoughts on the etiquette of exposed lingerie below.