4 posts tagged "Loden Dager"
The legendary Martin Greenfield is basically America’s tailor of record. It’s the reason that designers including Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, and Paul Marlow of Loden Dager turn to him (and now, his sons and business partners) when they need quality work for their labels. It’s also the reason that menswear journalists and editors start calling—in my experience, at least, the man doesn’t email—whenever a story on tailoring beckons. So many have that I felt reasonably certain that I would never need another Greenfield profile—until I read Ned Martel’s in the Washington Post this week. It offers up some fun new details, including that Greenfield and his sons-turned-business-partners made a few visits to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue during President Obama’s tenure. (Greenfield doesn’t name names who don’t name him first, but he has made suits for several past presidents, Mayor Bloomberg, and more.) But it also goes deeper than any Greenfield homage I’ve read about his life before WWII, his experience in the concentration camps, and how he eventually became an open secret in Washington among legions of ill-suited politicos. And on this matter, there appears to be that rarest thing of all: bipartisan agreement.
Loden Dager’s Paul Marlow and Alex Galan were in L.A. for the city’s fledgling fashion week this Saturday, but it wasn’t to stage a full-scale show or meet the press. “It’s about friends,” Galan said at the New York-based brand’s new West Coast showroom, in the front room of a Sunset Boulevard printing studio. And friends, in this case, meant the Like’s Tennessee Thomas, Glee costume designer Lou Eyrich, and David Arquette (left, with Marlow). “What we’re doing here is not open to the public,” Galan continued. In other words, this isn’t Loden Dager’s first retail store. Rather, the showroom will hopefully help to expand the presence of the brand at West Coast stores, though it will host rotating art exhibitions in the coming months. (Art books will also be wholesaled there; Galan daylights at D.A.P., Distributed Art Publishers.)
But “about friends” might be the subtitle to the Loden Dager story. The brand has grown largely through word of mouth as industry insiders and in-the-know types let pals and acquaintances in on the secret. That secret is one that’s been spreading faster these past few seasons—last year, LD was a finalist for the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund. “That was the most fun experience you can have in fashion—the feeling of camaraderie you get to feel getting to know all of these amazing designers,” Galan said.
That award came with a trip to L.A., one that gelled nicely with the Loden Dager aesthetic. (“L.A. is much more casual [than New York],” said Marlow, who designs the line with Oliver Helden, “and a big portion of our line is dressy casual.”) It also gave the designers a chance to make some new friends—including those in high places. “I just fell in love with the Sunset Tower the last time I was here,” Galan said. “The maître d’, Dimitri, I’m obsessed with him. He was like, ‘You and your friends are cool.’ That idea that you’ll have all of these very rich, I’m sure Russian mafia people waiting for a table, and he’ll be like, ‘I got you a table’—it’s amazing. I love the way that culture works here. New York is a bit tougher about that kind of thing.”
Congratulations to Altuzarra‘s Joseph Altuzarra, Christian Cota, Prabal Gurung, Robert Geller, Eddie Borgo, Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow of Loden Dager, Pamela Love, Moss Lipow, Gregory Parkinson, and Billy Reid, who are all in the running for a grand prize of up to $200,000 (runners-up get a cool $50K).
Who knew the Dewey decimal system could be so stylish? On Saturday night Loden Dager debuted womenswear along with their established men’s collection for F/W ’09 in the General Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, a library for engineers and mechanical draftsmen. Set against a backdrop of wooden card catalogs and bookcases worthy of a Wes Anderson set, models strolled down a makeshift runway composed of antique rugs while a Philip Glass soundtrack played in the background. Laura Dern, Ben Harper, and a roster of editors and cool kids in the know turned up to check it out. “We started with the idea of France in the sixties, when the workers and the students were rioting,” explained Alexander Galan, who’s one third of the design trio, the other two being Oliver Helden and Paul Marlow. “To do women’s we thought, why not, since we’d been making size X-small for our female friends anyway.’” All of the five looks shown could easily make a girl feel like the ingenue in a Godard film and gave a comprehensive idea of what to expect in the future. The pullover wool bomber with knit cuffs and collar had us wishing it were October already (well, not really, but you get the point), and a silk and cotton cap-sleeve dress popped in an emerald green print created by artist Adrian Crabbs. Galan pointed out, “We don’t use black, because black is formal, and we make clothes that are about workers and craft.” Good to know we’ll have new workwear to work it in this fall.