14 posts tagged "Loewe"
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
You can’t say we didn’t warn you. Today, WWD reports that after scooping up Nicholas Kirkwood last week, LVMH has purchased a minority stake in up-and-coming British brand J.W. Anderson (designed by Jonathan Anderson). Oh, but that’s not all. Anderson, 29, has also signed on as the creative director of Loewe, stepping into the shoes of Stuart Vevers, who announced in June that he was leaving the Spanish house to replace Reed Krakoff at Coach. Sound like a lot for the emerging talent to take on? It is. But if Anderson has the guts to send boys in sheer lace jumpsuits and ruffled tube tops down the runway, we’re pretty sure he’s up for anything—particularly if that anything is injecting a youthful edge into Loewe’s classic look.
In the fall of 2007—long before backstage was a thing and the flash of a camera was as ubiquitous behind the scenes as it is on the runway—German photographer Anna Bauer received an assignment from The Daily and road-tripped her way from London to Milan to Paris, shooting models, stylists, and a host of other fashion types along the way. She used a large-format Polaroid camera and captured the industry’s central figures in spontaneous form—flagging down designers such as Raf Simons and models like Kate Moss (above) and Raquel Zimmermann (below) during quiet moments and approaching them with boldness, trepidation, and sometimes total naiveté. “When I shot David Sims, I didn’t know who he was,” she recalled at the launch of her book, Backstage, last February. The results are eye-catching—a collection of raw, oft-revealing black-and-white portraits of the people who make the shows run.
This Thursday, Bauer will show the Polaroids—many of which first debuted in Backstage—en masse for the first time at the Loewe store in Madrid. “It’s a selection of about eighty,” said Bauer of the images, which include stills of everyone from Alber Elbaz to Iris Apfel to Juergen Teller. “I’m really happy because the show is going to give them another life,” she added. The earliest Polaroids on view were taken when the project began in 2007 (a young Agyness Deyn, a sunglasses-clad Karl Lagerfeld), while the most recent, Olivier Rousteing’s, for instance (“He doesn’t know he’s in there, because I didn’t know how to get in touch with him!” exclaimed Bauer), were taken just over a year ago.
Bauer said she has thought about shooting another group of people, like musicians or athletes (“just another extreme kind of group,” she mused) in the same style. But, she reasoned, “It could never be like this. I think that’s part of the interesting thing about the project—the condensed nature of the industry. We all go to the same four fashion weeks and the amount of people is limited. It’s a very close-knit circle of people.”
Anna Bauer’s Polaroids will be on view from September 5 to November 3 at the Loewe store, located at Calle Serrano, 26, Madrid, Spain.
After announcing his 2014 departure from Coach earlier this year, Reed Krakoff (or, if we’re going to be specific, a business group led by Krakoff) is buying his namesake label from Coach Inc., according to WWD. Earlier this month, Bloomberg reported that Coach—which recently hired Loewe’s Stuart Vevers to replace Krakoff as executive creative director—was trying to unload the Krakoff label and would cut the designer’s bonus by a cool $3 million if an agreement to sell the brand wasn’t reached by July 29 (yesterday). He appears to have slid in just under the deadline. The sale is expected to be finalized a few months before Krakoff officially leaves Coach next year.
Narrowing down the season’s top newcomers to just ten girls is never an easy task. After following their progress through New York, London, Milan, and Paris, we admittedly feel a bit like stage moms cheering on all the rookies. But, considering Fall ’13′s impressive crop of fresh faces, picking our favorites this season was even more gut-wrenching than usual.
At the end of the day, however, decisions have to be made. But the runners-up deserve a round of applause, too. At the top of our list of girls who almost made the cut is Elisabeth Erm (WILHELMINA), who shot to the front of the pack after walking Calvin Klein in New York, and then went on to kill it in Europe. She ended particularly strong in Paris, turning up at Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, and Miu Miu, among others. Another girl who boasted a very impressive show list was Nicole Pollard (ELITE), a favorite of Raf Simons, who closed the month with twenty-seven top-tier turns, including Dior, Alexander Wang, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Givenchy.
Some girls only walked a few shows, but that doesn’t mean they went unnoticed. Take Binx Walton (NEXT), for instance. The Tennessee native racked up exclusives at Marc Jacobs and Versace, and also appeared at Miu Miu in Paris, and Giles and Sister by Sibling in London (clearly, Katie Grand, who styles both collections, is a fan). Breathtaking brunettes Elise Smidt (WOMEN) and Lauren English (IMG) also went the selective but premium route. Smidt caught the eye of casting directors in Milan, at Prada and Jil Sander, then went on to hit the runway at Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, Chloé, and Dior in Paris. English emerged as a favorite of Alexander Wang (who definitely has a sixth sense for models) in New York, then turned up again on his Balenciaga catwalk in Paris. She rounded out the season with Céline, Acne Studios, Loewe, and Maison Martin Margiela. Keep an eye out for these ladies during the next few months—we have a feeling you’ll be seeing more of them.