40 posts tagged "London Fashion Week"
No ifs, ands, or buts about it: The Brits love their hats. And, seeing as they’re fond of supporting emerging designers, it makes sense the London fashion crew would champion bright new milliners, too. (After all, they need something to wear with their up-and-comer-designed duds.) Curated by Stephen Jones and supported by the Royal Ascot (which hosts the most hat-tastic horse race in the UK, and possibly the world), the four-year-old initiative welcomes three new milliners this season—Aurora (designed by Aurora Ozma), Emma Yeo, and Moody and Farrell (designed by Eloise Moody, whose work is pictured, left). They join veterans Piers Atkinson and William Chambers. “The Fall ’13 Headonism milliners usher in a new wave of excitement in millinery, combining London’s individuality and fine craftsmanship,” Jones told Style.com. “These three [new designers] complement perfectly the astounding talents of the witty Piers Atkinson and poetic William Chambers.” Headonism’s Fall ’13 hatters will unveil their new collections at an exhibition at Somerset House on the first day of London fashion week, which begins on February 15.
In London, a city known for nurturing young talent, the newest designers are often found off the official calendar. Style Bubble‘s Susie Lau took a spin through the farther reaches of London fashion week to report on the names you need to know next.
Season upon season, the focus on London fashion week increases exponentially. While it is still known as the hot spot for young talent, what is being showcased on the official schedule are almost all established brands: Jonathan Saunders, Christopher Kane, and Mary Katrantzou are hardly newbies. As the LFW schedule becomes increasingly packed—most editors experienced grueling 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. days—the number of up-and-coming graduates have spilled over into quite an impressive off-schedule that is mainly being facilitated by Vauxhall Fashion Scout, an organization established as an independent showcase of grassroots designers.
“These are designers that are starting out. This is what London is renowned for: new creative talent,” says Martyn Roberts, organizer of Vauxhall Fashion Scout. “VFS is the starting place and then they hopefully move on to LFW on-schedule and Paris.” A stone’s throw away from the main Somerset House venue, VFS is staged in the grand Freemason’s Hall, where over 30 designers showed their collections, including international imports who see London as the perfect place to showcase their work. For instance, Korean designer Hwan Heo and his brand Heohwan Simulation impressed with a slick collection (pictured, left) of monochrome photo prints spliced into shift dresses and precise tailoring, reflecting the designer’s menswear training. One of Istanbul’s up-and-coming talents, Zeynep Tosun, played with equestrian looks in a plethora of sheer fabrics and sportswear-derived detailing.
In the last few years, the Central Saint Martins M.A. and B.A. programs have produced many graduates, who have started their own labels and have also found a place at VFS to show their collections off-schedule. Standouts included design duo Sam Leutton and Jenny Postle, who refined their crafty aesthetic to use finer-gauge knits and fun elements like hammer beading and fringing to produce a vibrant show that demonstrated their love of uplifting color and texture mash-ups.
Myrza de Muynck is determined to bring back the shell suit by rendering it in pastel colors and decorating with delicate embroidery and beading. Phoebe English, who was picked up by Dover Street Market two seasons ago, created “intimate shells” inspired by organic forms in black and white for Spring ’13, with bugle-beaded sleeves and clusters of beads embellishing these shells. Hellen van Rees (pictured, left) used nubby Chanel-eque tweeds and jutting silicone blocks to create an abstracted take on ladylike attire. Away from VFS—off-schedule of the off-schedule—Adam Andrascik staged his own wholly independent show in a gallery and used subtle deconstruction in his minimal collection (below) that added a rather grown-up perspective to London’s reputation for the weird and wacky.
Label: Anya Hindmarch
Need to know: The invitation for handbag designer Anya Hindmarch’s Spring ’13 presentation in London had more than a few editors wondering what was in store—it said, “Bottoms, Bags, and Beauty Spots.” When they arrived, they were treated to the cheeky show they had been promised, with the carousel filled with bags being the main attraction. One of our favorites, the Bathurst, came out of an expanding pompadour wig, and the Duke style, which features a clock face, sprung out of the wall as a cuckoo clock as the bags spun on the moving two-story house set. The designer herself appeared as the grand finale, playing the Wurlitzer organ while butterflies flew out into the audience. It was Pomp & Pleasure (the name of the collection), indeed. Watch the presentation in the video above.
She says: Hindmarch found inspiration in an old music box, a Wurlitzer organ, and a two-dimensional pop-up book. In handbag terms, that translated into bright prints of damask, moiré, Georgian illustrations and oil paintings, and ornate curtain tassels that were re-created in leather and guillocheé boxes, with shapes ranging from a satchel to cross-body bags.
Where to find it: Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Anya Hindmarch stores.
For his latest collection, Erdem Moralioglu took the pretty girl from his Spring show and turned her on her head. Well, not literally, but the London-based designer toyed with the codes of femininity in a darker way by incorporating latex used for bondage and mixing it with soft lace. And his followers like the results: “So far, the pieces that people seem attracted to are the latex dresses and the trompe l’oeil tweed chiffon pieces,” he tells Style.com.
The road to the final product, however, was a long (and not always easy) one: “The finale dress was a challenge. It took weeks of hand embroidery—we almost didn’t finish it in time,” he says. The Canadian-born designer’s sister, Sara Moralioglu, followed his entire creative process this season, from design concept to the show, and caught it all on film. “This collection was particularly interesting as he would talk about various fabrics, things like latex or colors that you wouldn’t necessarily think of as beautiful,” she says. “There were lots of elements in this season that on paper sounded really off, but then he would transform them into these fabulous dresses and gowns.” Style.com has the exclusive Swarovski-presented film, here.