38 posts tagged "London Fashion Week"
Label: Anya Hindmarch
Need to know: The invitation for handbag designer Anya Hindmarch’s Spring ’13 presentation in London had more than a few editors wondering what was in store—it said, “Bottoms, Bags, and Beauty Spots.” When they arrived, they were treated to the cheeky show they had been promised, with the carousel filled with bags being the main attraction. One of our favorites, the Bathurst, came out of an expanding pompadour wig, and the Duke style, which features a clock face, sprung out of the wall as a cuckoo clock as the bags spun on the moving two-story house set. The designer herself appeared as the grand finale, playing the Wurlitzer organ while butterflies flew out into the audience. It was Pomp & Pleasure (the name of the collection), indeed. Watch the presentation in the video above.
She says: Hindmarch found inspiration in an old music box, a Wurlitzer organ, and a two-dimensional pop-up book. In handbag terms, that translated into bright prints of damask, moiré, Georgian illustrations and oil paintings, and ornate curtain tassels that were re-created in leather and guillocheé boxes, with shapes ranging from a satchel to cross-body bags.
Where to find it: Harrods, Harvey Nichols, and Anya Hindmarch stores.
For his latest collection, Erdem Moralioglu took the pretty girl from his Spring show and turned her on her head. Well, not literally, but the London-based designer toyed with the codes of femininity in a darker way by incorporating latex used for bondage and mixing it with soft lace. And his followers like the results: “So far, the pieces that people seem attracted to are the latex dresses and the trompe l’oeil tweed chiffon pieces,” he tells Style.com.
The road to the final product, however, was a long (and not always easy) one: “The finale dress was a challenge. It took weeks of hand embroidery—we almost didn’t finish it in time,” he says. The Canadian-born designer’s sister, Sara Moralioglu, followed his entire creative process this season, from design concept to the show, and caught it all on film. “This collection was particularly interesting as he would talk about various fabrics, things like latex or colors that you wouldn’t necessarily think of as beautiful,” she says. “There were lots of elements in this season that on paper sounded really off, but then he would transform them into these fabulous dresses and gowns.” Style.com has the exclusive Swarovski-presented film, here.
London, like most of the great global cities, is one divided. The same is true of its fashion, especially its menswear. On the one hand there is the Dickensian decrepitude of the East End, the home to much of the young design talent, who use it as a playground for experimentation. The recently graduated Saint Martin’s and Royal College students rule that particular roost. Up West is seemingly a different story. This is the site of Savile Row, Jermyn Street and Saint James’, with all their sonorous, distinctly English, gentlemanly connotations and the tailoring traditions that are the finest in the world.
On London Fashion Week’s annual MAN Day, devoted exclusively to menswear shows, the surface contrast between East and West is never starker, and this season it was starkest of all. But what emerged in the best fashion was at times a strange shared ethos of extremes. Often, the more extreme the approach, the better.
Topman Design (top left) offered its most accomplished collection to date, with very little high street about it. Inspired by Brassaï’s Paris street photography and the style of gypsy and traveler men, the heavy Harris tweed suiting, paisley silks and a section of naval-braided evening wear harked back to a different era. “Romany princes” creative consultant Alister Mackie called his well-cast boys. “There was an idea of thirties and fifties clothing being worn in the eighties, passed down through successive generations and classes,” he said.”It was a statement of elegance, that made the grimy feel glamorous.” Continue Reading “The Wilder, The Better At London Menswear’s MAN Day” »