9 posts tagged "London"
Menswear label Tiger of Sweden was founded back in 1903 but only just made its London catwalk debut yesterday. The Swedish, albeit Danish-owned label known for its skinny suits unveiled a collection loosely based around the cult gang movie The Warriors from 1979. Here, the film translated into a nighttime palette of black, gray, and white, with rust and teal as color accents. The collection as a whole took on the current menswear obsession of mixing tailoring and sporty separates.
“To make the collection more fashion, we added the casual part of our range into the main one,” Tiger of Sweden designer Ronnie McDonald explained, as he motioned toward a baseball-inspired striped shirt and tracksuit bottoms paired with a suit jacket.
A dressy bomber jacket was made of flannel rather than wool (“I wanted something that looked like wool but was lighter”), while leather sleeves were added to a midnight blue hybrid of a lapel-less suit jacket and bomber. A new, slightly oversize suit shape was also introduced alongside Tiger’s popular skinny version, though it was still shown with cropped trousers. “People think it’s easy making a skinny suit. It’s not,” McDonald told us. “But we need another silhouette as well, a looser fit. We have to look forward.”
From the Operating Room to Sumba, Fashion East’s Menswear Designers Find Inspiration in Unlikely Places-------
Fashion East Men’s latest outing was inventive even by its high standards, proof that Lulu Kennedy’s talent farm keeps producing the best of breed. It started with a clinical and slightly sinister jewelry collection from Alan Crocetti (the man behind the mouthpieces at Bobby Abley’s MAN Fall 2014 show). The goods were inspired by the external fixtures that hold surgically inserted pins in a broken bone. There were a couple firsts in the jewelry world: a “palm ring” (a band that wrapped around the hand) and a silver tab placed above the nose in the same way a bandage would appear after rhinoplasty surgery (pictured, below).
Next up was textile specialist Edward Crutchley, who became obsessed with ikat prints after a recent trip to Sumba, Indonesia. Ikat is a busy pattern to begin with, but that didn’t stop the designer from layering one look with leggings, shorts, and a tunic in the print.
Marques’Almeida carried on its love affair with deconstructed, raw-edged denim, taking a cue from its own FW 2014 women’s collection. Loose, slouchy denim with raw hems said hip kids on a road trip.
A surprise last-minute guest was the California-born, British-educated Shaun Samson, who, after some visa issues, came back to London late last night. Models lounging around cots in a “tent” sported board shorts with doodle prints, graphic thunderclap sweaters, and Boy Scout scarves. Talk about camp.
The final designer, Martine Rose, a Fashion East veteran who was invited back for this outing, was brief in her presentation—just one look of her trademark baggy sweatpants combined with a long leather jacket and knit turtleneck (pictured, below). The ensemble was a teaser for a larger project she has slated for the fall with a top photographer, but for now she remains tight-lipped on the details.
In keeping with Moschino’s tradition of irreverence, Jeremy Scott’s twisted, Chanel-meets-McDonald’s debut ready-to-wear collection for the house ruffled a few of fashion’s fabulous feathers on the runway in Milan during the Fall ’14 shows. What then does the designer have planned for his Moschino men’s debut? For one thing, it was announced today that the men’s show will take place this June in London, where it may be more at home with the international crowd and diverse casting pool. “It’s fun,” is the statement we got from Scott. What else would you expect?
This morning, Adriana Lima announced that the next Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show will be held in London. “The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is the biggest fashion event in the world,” she said during the press conference, which took place at the Victoria’s Secret Bond Street store. Lima was accompanied by fellow Angel Candice Swanepoel and Ed Razek, the company’s chief marketing officer, who said the brand has wanted to show in London since 1998.
The show will be held at Earls Court Exhibition Centre on December 2. But the real question on everyone’s mind is: Will the royal family be in attendance?
London is a hotbed of young talent in fashion, and the city is known for supporting the young, the wild, and the penniless like few other fashion capitals. Just in time for London fashion week, Style.com checked in with three of the city’s most exciting emerging designers. First up: Simone Rocha.
“It’s a whole other gaggle of fish!” says Irish-born designer Simone Rocha, 24, of her first solo runway show, set to take place on September 18. After graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2010, Rocha was spotted by Lulu Kennedy and, for the past two seasons, has shown her strong yet ethereal womenswear collection under the umbrella of Kennedy’s nonprofit fashion initiative, Fashion East. “I’m nervous and excited—I feel like it’s a really good time to be flying solo,” she adds about the leap. But while Rocha may be a new face, she’s no stranger to the fashion business. Thanks to her father, designer John Rocha, Simone has been around the runway since before she can remember.
For her Spring collection, Rocha builds on last season’s inspiration, the work of artist Louise Bourgeois. “I looked at her lace works and hanging garments and tried to trap them into the clothes,” she says. That spawned sheer rubber skirts, the waistbands of which are inlaid with delicate lace, as well as a range of geometric rubber handbags that are infused with a sense of nostalgia via attached vintage lace gloves. The neutral, airy collection’s feminine notes, like the frills of a shapely white lace skirt and occasional pops of pink, are balanced by the strength of a black blazer with sheer arms, as well as unexpected cutouts, a series of sharp silk crepe and stretch cotton shirts, and elevated brogues. “I’m trying to contrast modern tailoring and classic shapes with femininity,” she says. The same holds true of her upcoming Topshop capsule collection, which hits stores in New York and London on September 15.