6 posts tagged "Lou Dalton"
It’s been a big week for the London Collections: Men, with Rag & Bone and Pringle of Scotland announcing that they would join the likes of Tom Ford, Alexander McQueen, and Burberry in presenting during the city’s third menswear showcase this June. “I think London is pretty much the home of menswear. Look at Savile Row and the great heritage we have. We invented the suit!” said Dylan Jones—the editor in chief of British GQ and the chair of London’s men’s collections—at an event at the British Residence in New York last night. The occasion, which drew the likes of BFC chief executive Caroline Rush, Dominic Jones, Nasir Mazhar, Sibling’s Cozette McCreery, Lou Dalton, and more, marked the announcement of London’s Spring 2014 menswear schedule. The lineup includes the above-mentioned international brands, as well as talents like Christopher Kane, Richard Nicoll, and James Long. Long, fresh out of the London Showrooms, which visited New York this week, offered, “When I started menswear in London, we had to struggle to have a voice. It was very behind womenswear. Now, all these supportive people have made [London menswear] happen, and it’s so funny being in New York and having menswear be the focus.” Caroline Rush concurred. “The womenswear designers have great recognition, but to put that spotlight on these incredible menswear brands is really important,” she said.
One might wonder why the British Fashion Council chose to reveal the London menswear roster in Manhattan rather than on its home turf. “We’re here tonight…because so many New York designers have supported us since we launched 18 months ago,” said Jones in his speech, noting that Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and more had all lent a hand. He added that Tommy Hilfiger, David Furnish, Tracey Emin, and Details magazine will all be throwing “amazing” parties during the upcoming shows, which will run from June 16 to 18. “When [everyone] goes over to Milan, they’re going to have one hell of a hangover,” he laughed. The complete Spring 2014 London Collections: Men schedule is available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.
London’s fashion boom has been a particular boon for menswear, and as of last June, the city inaugurated its own menswear weekend to recognize it. I was glad to be in the early guard of editors who made the trip, alongside Style.com’s Tim Blanks, who serves on the Menswear Committee of the event, and came away impressed with the energy and individualism of the city’s designers. Even the youngest—the trio of Agi & Sam, Shaun Samson, and Astrid Andersen, who showed collectively as part of the MAN show—had more courage of their convictions than many far more seasoned labels in New York or elsewhere. And while everyone agreed that the start was an auspicious one, the unofficial consensus among the attendees I spoke to was that the week could use a few tentpoles from the big-time ranks to solidify its position and round out its offerings. The provisional schedule, announced today by the BFC, suggests it is getting just that. London is still extremely supportive of its emerging set—eBay and the mayor of London are teaming up for a Fashion Forward sponsorship, which will be extended as in seasons past to Christopher Shannon, E.Tautz, and J.W. Anderson, and for the first time, to the promising Lou Dalton—but several more established houses are planning to show as well. Alexander McQueen (a look from the Spring ’13 collection is at left) and Tom Ford, both of whom previously presented by appointment in Milan, will show in London; Savile Row’s own Hardy Amies, which showed in Paris, joins as well. More to follow? To be seen. In the meantime, to catch up on London’s Spring 2013 show coverage on Style.com, click here.
After a royal kickoff, London Collections: Men (its official, if slightly wordy name) began in earnest this morning.
The first show on the schedule belonged to Lou Dalton, the brassy woman-in-menswear (like her sister-in-arms Martine Rose) who is a promising part of the young London scene. Her futuristic take on tailoring (left)—jackets with inset mesh panels, shirts in classic fabrics like seersucker that billowed like deflated humps behind their wearers, and boxy shorts, worn with trainers and high socks—seemed almost sci-fi, but it had an appealingly dystopic twang. Alexa Chung, who dipped backstage after the show to offer her congratulations, seemed to appreciate it.
And now, as the Pythons used to say, for something completely different. (This is England, after all.) Hackett’s show at the English Opera House drew inspiration from the past, specifically the thirties of Gatsby. That sort of vertigo-inducing 180 from the future to the past and the experimental to the traditional characterized the day and may well characterize the full schedule of collections here in London. In the afternoon, Savile Row opened its many doors, while not far away, Rose made her mark—literally—with outerwear and shirts in neoprene stamped with impressions of her own hands. Continue Reading “Letter From London:
The Men’s Collections, Day 1″ »
After cramming a city’s worth of menswear offerings into a single MAN Day for the last few seasons, London is planning to give its standout men’s offerings a bit more room to breathe. The first men’s-only London fashion collections (technically three days, rather than a few weeks) will take place June 15 to 17, with opening programs including a launch event hosted by Prince Charles. In addition to the young London designers who have been showing on MAN DAY—like J.W. Anderson, James Long, Topman, Lou Dalton, and Christopher Shannon—the new opportunity has lured several U.K. brands back to their home turf, including Pringle of Scotland and Nicole Farhi, who have been showing in Milan, and Dunhill. E. Tautz, Hardy Amies, and Richard James will show ready-to-wear collections on Savile Row, and Richard Nicoll (pictured) will debut a menswear collection. The full schedule is now available at www.londoncollections.co.uk.
Talk about multitasking: Juergen Teller’s new campaign for Marc Jacobs—starring Masha Kirsanova and Caroline Brasch Nielsen—was shot backstage at Jacobs’ Spring ’11 show (left). [Fashionologie]
The womenswear winners of London’s NewGen sponsorships were announced earlier this week, and now the prize is spotlighting the men: J.W. Anderson, Christopher Shannon, and James Long will show their menswear on the runway during LFW’s Man Day, while Lou Dalton, Katie Eary, Omar Kashoura, and knit wits Sibling will have their presentations supported. (Men’s designer Christopher Raeburn, who was listed among the winners yesterday, will also have his installation underwritten.) [Vogue U.K.]
It’s time (again) for Diane von Furstenberg to clear some space on her mantel: The indefatigable designer will receive amfAR’s Award of Courage—alongside President Bill Clinton and Elizabeth Taylor—at the AIDS research nonprofit’s silver anniversary gala next year. [WWD]
Leandra Medine, better known as the voice of Man Repeller, is the high priestess of high-waisted pants—and shoulder pads, schlumpy layers, and all of the other “girls get it, guys don’t” fashion choices out there. Men may be repelled, but the Times wasn’t; Medine got the full profile treatment today. [NYT]
And here’s more from Ford: The latest glimpses of TF’s womenswear come courtesy of W, which shot a few looks, styled by Alex White and shot by Inez and Vinoodh, on Lara Stone. [W]