6 posts tagged "Louise Wilson"
Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci, Christopher Kane—Central Saint Martins College has no shortage of iconic alumni. And it’s not hurting for fresh talent, either. Students in the undergraduate and masters programs have once again broken new ground with the release of 1 Granary, a student fashion magazine, named for the address of the school’s new King’s Cross campus at 1 Granary Square. “We were just having fun, doing what we loved,” explained the student editor and founder, Olya Kuryshchuk (she also styled the below shoot, “Going Sublime,” which was lensed by photographer Nikolay Biryukov), of the magazine’s origins. “Gradually, we realized that we had created a great opportunity—that we could meet the people who truly inspire us and show our own work in the process.”
The issue features interviews with CSM alums such as Kate Phelan, as well as some very rare archival images—the first official image of Alexander McQueen, which was shot by his friend and current CSM tutor Gary Wallis, Katie Grand’s first-ever photo shoot from when she was a second-year knitting student at the school (lensed by Wallis, the spread debuts here, above). “For the shoot, Katie and Gary Wallis drove all evening, shot all night in an old marked-off factory, and were back in time for class the next morning,” explained Kuryshchuk. And of course, 1 Granary highlights work by current students and recent graduates, with editorials showcasing brightly-printed sustainable tunics crafted by students during a group project, and some almost cartoonishly clever architectural pieces from 2011 graduate Jaeyeon Lee. Continue Reading “CSM Does It Again” »
Keeping the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding gown hidden from London’s notoriously crafty paparazzi is deserving of accolades in and of itself. But today at Buckingham Palace, Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton was awarded an OBE for her contributions to British fashion. The honor, which stands for Order of the British Empire, has, in the past, been bestowed upon such fashion forces as Professor Louise Wilson of Central Saint Martins (who actually taught Burton) and Stephen Jones, among others.
After Prince Charles presented Burton with her award, The Telegraph asked the designer—who is currently pregnant with twins herself—if she would be making maternity clothes for Kate Middleton. Burton reportedly laughed and said, “I hope I will be.” To be honest, though, we’re more excited to see what she’ll show for McQueen’s upcoming pre-fall collection.
They’re a wrap. The British Fashion Awards have just come to a close in London, where Valentino, First Lady Samantha Cameron, and Rolling Stone Ronnie Wood were all on hand to present awards. The takeaway: The Brits really, really like their homegrown hero, Stella McCartney, who walked off with both Designer of the Year and Designer Brand of the Year. They’ve also got no problem being repeat commenders. Kim Jones of Louis Vuitton won Menswear Designer of the Year for the second year running, and Alexa Chung got the British Style Award—the ceremony’s people’s-choice prize—for the third year running. Style.com/Print cover girl Cara Delevingne won model of the year (see some of our shoot with her here), beloved/feared Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson took the Isabella Blow Award for Fashion Creator, and outgoing British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman, who will leave the post at the end of this year, won a special recognition. The complete winners are below; check back tomorrow for our complete coverage from the ceremony.
DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
MENSWEAR DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
Kim Jones for Louis Vuitton
ACCESSORY DESIGNER OF THE YEAR
DESIGNER BRAND OF THE YEAR
MODEL OF THE YEAR
RED CARPET AWARD
NEW ESTABLISHMENT AWARD
BRITISH STYLE AWARD
ISABELLA BLOW AWARD FOR FASHION CREATOR
OUTSTANDING ACHIEVEMENT IN FASHION
“It’s rare that students get to present their designs in a venue like this, never mind getting to travel to Italy and work with creative directors of a large fashion company right on their turf,” Central Saint Martins professor Louise Wilson OBE said at the Bally and Central Saint Martins presentation at London’s Savoy Hotel earlier today. “I certainly never had that chance like that when I was a student.”
Props, then, to Bally, which is now in its third year of collaborating with Wilson’s CSM M.A. class. For the project, the brand selects two students to create a womenswear and menswear look, with a simple and admirable objective in mind—to nurture talent and to allow students the rare insight of what work life could be after graduation. Needless to say, this year’s students, Alice Bastin and Mei Lim Cooper (pictured), were chuffed to be there. “It was life-altering getting to work with the Bally creative directors (Graeme Fidler and Michael Herz)—seeing how a design is completed from A to Z,” Cooper told Style.com. And their brief? Well, let’s just say it was brief. They were both given a drawing to study, one women’s and one men’s shoe—and then charged with the task of creating a look, with the focus being on outerwear pieces this year. “It was great that the direction was so minimal because we got to use full creative license,” says Bastin, whose shoulder for her men’s jacket was almost an exact footprint, so to speak, of the toe of the shoe.
With Christopher Kane, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, Louise Gray, and Mary Katrantzou as a few of her famous alumni, we just had to ask Wilson if she had an LFW favorite this season: “Well, I don’t like to pick and choose, but it has to be said that Louise Gray’s show was outstanding—she really went to another level of her career. If I was younger, I’d be wearing all that stuff. Well, maybe minus the mohawk.”
You had to reconsider your notions about the crotchety and crocheted Afghan throw after it showed up in both printed and actual knitted form on the runways of vastly different British designers Christopher Kane (above left) and Henry Holland (above center). That’s just one example of the subverted Anglican heritage thread running through the London shows. Holland, whose inspiration was actually All Things Granny, also made use of bona fide Harris tweed, made special for him in candy brights. Then there’s Louise Gray, a designer to whom the word traditional very rarely applies, who both subverted and celebrated her Scottish heritage blowing up and pixellating tartan prints on mohair coats and deconstructing color-blocked Aran pullovers (above right).
It was definitely a moment for the Scots. Julien Macdonald danced a dark-edged Highland fling for his fall collection. And at Pringle of Scotland, the 195 year-old company where the H-word (that’s heritage, not Highland) is always a part of the recipe in varying amounts, designer Clare Waight Keller (who announced her resignation last week) blew up tweeds and remixed the good old Fair Isle into something fringed and bohemian. Perhaps she took a cue from the Pringle Archive Project, also shown during London Fashion Week, where Central Saint Martins MA students were asked to create new knitwear inspired by the company’s recently amassed collection of pieces dating back to the 1930s. The best results were refreshingly simple in execution. “The funniest thing to me is that when they got the whole archive together, what they chose to be inspired by,” said Professor Louise Wilson, the school’s legendary MA course director who headed up the project. “If you look at their portfolios, it’s quite obscure. But I would have been very disappointed if they’d started doing beading and bows.”