17 posts tagged "LOVE"
In gritty 1980s London, John Galliano was wrapping up his studies at Central Saint Martins, Leigh Bowery was hosting pansexual club nights, and Nick Logan launched The Face. It was a time of unencumbered experimentation—sartorial and otherwise. And it was during this era that stylist Ray Petri—the man responsible for the anti-glam Buffalo movement—emerged on the scene. Petri (formerly Petrie) laid the bricks for the eclectic British fashion scene of today. His editorials, which set the tone in magazines such as Arena, i-D, and the above-mentioned The Face, pictured rough London teens in unexpected combinations of high fashion, tough workwear, athletic clothes, underwear, vintage, and beyond. He created not only a look but an ideology that was universally recognizable. And now, the iconoclast—who died of AIDS in 1989—is getting a magazine named after him.
Founded by Zadrian Smith—a London-based writer, stylist, and producer who’s worked with such publications as Tank, Love, GQ Style and British Vogue—PETRI(E) Inventory 65 (the stylist would have turned 65 this year—published annually, the numbers will bump up accordingly) seeks to breathe new life into Petri’s legacy. Aiming to channel the man’s uncompromising, unfiltered vision, PETRI(E)’s editorial array extends far beyond fashion. The debut issue offers an ode to Petri by British Vogue’s Francesca Burns, a photo essay by Saiful Huq Omi that lenses the hope and strife within Bangladesh megalopolis, Dhaka (above), and an essay by Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition, Queer History. “I think there’s a vulnerability and honesty to each piece that I hope readers will appreciate,” Smith told Style.com. Also included is an editorial titled “Melody of Caged Birds,” (above, right) which, featuring Meadham Kirchhoff’s designs, serves as a visual antidote to the suppression of raw creative impulse. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Smith, “I know fashion is a business, but there needs to be a greater balance of business and creativity. At this rate, fashion will bleed itself of organic artistry.”
PETRI(E) Inventory 65 launches on May 20, and is available for preorder here.
You can’t miss a Panos Yiapanis photograph. Since beginning his career in the late nineties—working alongside photographer Corinne Day—the 38-year-old stylist has honed a dark, gritty, raw-to-the-bone aesthetic that is distinctly his own. His particular vision has led to a longstanding creative relationship with Rick Owens, as well as countless spreads in such magazines as i-D, W, and Vogue Italia shot by the likes of Steven Meisel, Inez & Vinoodh, and Mert & Marcus. To add to his accomplishments, last week, Katie Grand tapped him to become Love‘s fashion director-at-large. Here, Yiapanis talks to Style.com about the new gig, the state of fashion, and staying true to his look.
Why did now feel like the right time to join a magazine?
I feel like I’ve come full circle in terms of what I do. I’ve kind of been nomadic, which is putting it nicely. I’ve been a gypsy, going from one magazine to another. I feel like I’m back to where I was aesthetically when I first started out in terms of what I want to say, so having this position now gives me a new way of conveying that message. When I first started out, a lot of what I did was very personal and I had evolved away from doing that. People would say, “Well, maybe that’s a little too creative for us,” so I started to clean up what I did, which didn ‘t work for me. I’m happier doing what I enjoy, so it felt right to go back to my messier aesthetic.
How do you balance art and commerciality?
I don’t think you have to. I always argue that the best results are when both of them are at their height. I always yap about the nineties, when brands were willing to put out campaigns that captured the spirit of the brand as opposed to the product. That seems to have gotten lost somewhere along the way. So I don’t think creativity and commercialism are mutually exclusive. I honestly think they’re best when they both collide. But that doesn’t seem to be a thought that’s shared widely right now.
Your aesthetic is usually described as dark and moody. Do you feel that’s accurate?
It’s funny because when the Love announcement was made, I saw this tweet that said, “Love just got darker.” And I don’t know if that’s necessarily true; maybe I just got a bit brighter. There is a darkness to what I do, but it’s never macabre or unpleasant and I always try to adapt to the situation. The clients I’ve worked with vary from pure brands like Calvin to flashy brands like Cavalli. And I enjoy that diversity. I enjoy sitting in a room full of embroidery and fur and gold trimmings one day, and then going into a different setting the following day where it’s all about stripping things away. Love is a very positive publication. So on the one hand, it kind of works to go against that and give it another voice, but at the same time, I’m not going in there to paint the walls black. Continue Reading “Back to the Dark Side: Panos Yiapanis on Love and His Creative Evolution” »
Fall 2013 marks Love magazine’s Katie Grand’s second collaborative capsule for Hogan. Titled Gang, the range includes everything from iPhone cases to skate shoes, and features lots and lots of zebra print, simply because, as Grand explains, “It felt right and looked great.” In true Grand style, the collection debuts via a playful film, which stars Love-ettes like Cara Delevingne, Tallulah Harlech, Stephanie Seymour, and Ondria Hardin. Shot by Daniel Jackson, the short shows the ladies bouncing around in Katie Grand x Hogan’s wares to the tune “I Want Candy,” sung by Miss Delevingne herself. “Cara kept saying how she wanted to do something with me that wasn’t modeling, so when I wanted to do something special with the video, I thought it was ideal to get her to sing the soundtrack,” Grand told Style.com. Catch the film’s premiere, as well as Cara’s singing skills, above, exclusively on Style.com.
Today, Love magazine released In Bed With Cara—a sweet and saucy cinematic V-Day treat featuring the always-adorable Cara Delevingne (who just happens to be one of Issue Nine’s cover girls). Wearing a marabou-trimmed Giles teddy and heart-shaped glasses, Miss Delevingne munches on candies and bounces on a bed with some metallic confetti and loose Swarovski crystals to the tune of Salt-N-Pepa’s “Whatta Man.” Cute, right? Well, Love sent over a decidedly more subversive X-rated version of the film, which features a few extra wiggles and a not-so-seductive (but classically Cara-goofy) surprise ending. The exclusive version debuts above. As Love EIC Katie Grand puts it, it’s “hot stuff.”
After racking up an impressive lot of Spring ’13 campaigns (Versace and Givenchy among them) and countless covers last year, Kate Moss (who celebrated her thirty-ninth birthday last week) shows no signs of slowing. Today marks a double whammy for the model: The Internet’s abuzz about her Tim Walker-lensed cover and spread for Love magazine’s ninth issue (her ensembles include a stretched tank top, which she wears in a bathtub, a bouquet of strategically placed flowers, and not much else). On the other end of the spectrum, Rag & Bone has released its Spring ’13 images, which, shot by Alasdair McLellan, feature a fresh-faced (and fully clothed) Moss perched on a park bench. The model’s partnership with Rag & Bone began last season, when she was shot by Craig McDean in North London for the brand’s first-ever ad campaign. This time around, she posed in Southrop, Gloucestershire, which just happens to be the same Cotswolds town where she married Kills rocker Jamie Hince in 2011.”We…thought it would be an interesting contrast to follow up [our first campaign] in a remote English village, which Kate happens to have an affinity for,” said Marcus Wainwright, who designs the range along with David Neville, in a press release. “It was also a fun play on our British heritage,” he added. Moss’ latest campaign coup debuts above, exclusively on Style.com.