3 posts tagged "LPD New York"
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks into gear, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Labels: LPD New York, designed by 22-year-old Benjamin Fainlight, and Conflict of Interest NYC, whose designers are not yet ready to expose themselves and thus want to be known, for now, as “agents.” The collections were presented in tandem at an installation-cum-party in New York’s Garment District.
Need to Know: Let’s start with LPD (left), a one-year-old label that gained notoriety thanks to its mesh athletic jerseys emblazoned with designer monikers—SLIMANE 68, for example. Yet wisely, the label’s young founder recognizes that a one-trick pony does not a brand make, and, for the first time, will offer a fully cut-and-sewn Spring ’14 lineup that extends well past the gimmickry. On mud-covered models, he showed both men’s and women’s separates, some rendered with eye-catching grayscale landscapes or Japanese lettering. LPD’s inherent street sportiness isn’t sacrificed, though—this was lean, mean, and greased to the concrete bone. In particular, keep a lookout for sweatshirt-material shorts with a leather-mimicking finish, as well as an upcoming collaboration with Jessica Stam.
Conflict of Interest NYC (above), known for riffing on designer labels (yes, they’re responsible for the “Ballinciaga” T-shirts), expanded upon their signatures this season. For Spring, the “agents” offer a men’s cape smattered in playful jabs. Its prints include the words “Chapel,” placed alongside Chanel’s double-c logo outlined with a church; “Benzo,” paired with a caricatured Mercedez in lieu of Kenzo’s tigers; and “Niu Niu York,” written in Miu Miu’s iconic font. Yet they, too, turned out his-and-hers options past the parody, most successfully so via a smart blazer for the gents and an optic white lab coat for the girls.
They Say: Regarding those aforementioned shorts at LPD, Fainlight said: “It’s a Margiela-esque take on things, bringing it down to streetwear level.” And as for Conflict of Interest’s output, an “agent” revealed, “We call it ‘re-psychled’—we take the visual inputs in our minds and remix them. If you notice the back of the shirts, they’ve got graphics from old 1980s technology.”
What does Jessica Stam have in common with Karl Lagerfeld, Miuccia Prada, Riccardo Tisci, and Dries Van Noten? The model can now claim an LPD New York T-shirt boldly emblazoned with her last name and birth year (’86) in black. Last night, Stam and LPD founder Benjamin Fainlight hosted friends including Jennifer Fisher and Athena Calderone at The Jane hotel to celebrate the launch of the new “Team Stam” collaboration jersey that will benefit the catwalker’s charity of choice, Many Hopes, which invests in sustainable community development in Kenya. One hundred percent of the proceeds from each shirt will go to the foundation. “My friend connected me with Stam and thought there was potential to use LPD and her shared platform to give back to a really great cause,” Fainlight told Style.com.
Over the past year, LPD New York’s novelty tees have developed a cult following with the street-style set, and Fainlight recently expanded beyond designers’ names with the Artist Series, which includes Hirst, Pollock, and Warhol styles. Beginning with Team Stam, we think Fainlight is onto something with models—who wouldn’t want to advertise their allegiance to Team Campbell, Team Moss, or Team Smalls? The designer hinted, “Well, I can’t give away too much, but I might just have that same concept coming out with a prevalent online retailer [chances are it's Net-a-Porter] that has been amazing about supporting the brand and giving us a global stage.” Building off of this idea, Stam suggested, “It would be neat if other philanthropic models like Liya Kebede, Christy Turlington Burns for Every Mother Counts, and Karlie Kloss for FEED got involved in another round of shirts.”
A potential model series isn’t the only project in the pipeline for LPD. On Friday evening, the label will stage its first NYFW concept presentation in conjunction with Conflict of Interest (known for its witty fashion T-shirts splashed with puns like “Ballinciaga” or “Ill Slander”). At the Spring ’14 show, Fainlight will debut a full cut-and-sewn collection including tailored outerwear, knitwear, and trousers that reportedly focuses on unorthodox finishings and treatments. “I really wanted to play with the conventions of streetwear and incorporate high-fashion concepts,” Fainlight said. “I think this new direction will show people that we’re a lot more than a T-shirt brand.”
Photo: Courtesy of LPD NYC
VFiles—New York’s premiere destination for streetwear, swag, and the cutting edge—has met its match. The platform’s retail director, Zachary Ching, found a kindred spirit in Anna Trevelyan—the rainbow-haired stylist who serves as London boutique Machine-A‘s fashion director—when they sat side by side at the Fall ’13 Thierry Mugler show. The conversation that ensued led to a veritable shop-swap that kicks off during New York fashion week. “I was telling her a lot about my store, and she was telling me about hers, and we thought, ‘Let’s just trade lives for fashion week,’” Ching told Style.com. While VFiles focuses on all that is urban, and Machine-A prides itself on championing London’s experimental designers and up-and-comers, Trevelyan says that the stores are completely in sync. “Although the product and the brands stocked are different, the ethos is the same. We both want to give as much exposure as possible to the young designers we support, and the chance for a more international outreach for our designers really excited both of us.” The stores also share some common ground in their locations—they’re each based in their respective cities’ Soho districts, making them, as Trevelyan explains in the below clip, “global neighbors.”
Machine-A will take over the back portion of VFiles from September 3 through September 17 (the last day of London fashion week) and visa versa. Trevelyan is bringing brands like Alex Mattsson, Dr. Noki, Ashley Williams, and Kyle Hopkins to the Big Apple, and Ching will fill Machine-A with VFiles’ vintage collection, T-shirts by LPD New York, and wares from Hood by Air, including four limited-edition tops embellished with Swarovski crystals. “We haven’t figured out the price point yet, but they’re going to be super expensive,” laughed Ching when asked about the exclusive merch. On the more affordable front, the stores have created a range of co-branded sportswear—like basketball shorts, long-sleeve tees, duffel bags, and hoodies—which range from $30 to $90. The collaborative collection debuts exclusively here.
This switch-up ties into the stores’ long-term transatlantic plans, too. For instance, VFiles has picked up Alex Mattsson’s Spring ’14 menswear collection, and Machine-A will be stocking the new collection by Hood by Air. “I think it will be nice to take these first footsteps in London, because eventually we’d love to have a real store there,” offers Ching. But he adds, “It’s also about having a really fun party at the end of London fashion week. We’re super excited about that.”
V-Files is located at 12 Mercer St. in New York. Machine-A is set on 13 Brewer St. in London.