9 posts tagged "Lucas Ossendrijver"
As the Spring ’14 menswear collections wrapped in Paris over the weekend, a number of designers showed hyper-luxe takes on a bold wardrobe staple: the all-black leather trenchcoat.
Thom Browne‘s exercise in militaristic flamboyance offered a skirted patent-leather coat cut snug at the waist, trimmed with epaulets, and finished with heavy hardware. Hedi Slimane turned out a greased-up, banged-up iteration in one of his signature slim cuts at Saint Laurent. And lastly, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver delivered a supple, wide-collared option at Lanvin. While Elbaz said there was “nothing techno or digital” about the lineup, one can’t deny that this piece recalled Keanu Reeves’ iconic look from cinema’s ultimate cyber film: The Matrix.
Lucas Ossendrijver (pictured), Lanvin’s menswear designer, was in town from Paris today to walk a handful of editors and buyers through key looks from his Fall ’12 collection. There was plenty to ogle as Ossendrijver ticked off the fine points of the pieces, including details too subtle to be seen on the Paris runways: the silicone injections that—à la plastic surgery—gave knits roundness and volume; lapels half shorn off and then reattached askew; the overcoats whose sloped-forward shape was achieved by hand-sewing chains into the sides for a toothlike grip; jackets with sleeves so slimmed they required darts. There was a new silhouette to attempt if you dare—a high-waisted flare that at least one female editor in the room murmured she’d have no problem wearing if her male compatriots were too timid—and a parade of Frankensteined outerwear, with puffer pieces sewn on cabans and greatcoats, or a leather moto jacket whose pieces were bonded to boiled wool, which peeked out through the segments of skin. But the news of the day was the details Ossendrijver shared on the forthcoming Lanvin men’s store on Madison Avenue, just a block south of where the women’s store now stands. “I’m really excited,” he said. “It’s going to be almost a replication of the Paris store.” Three floors’ worth of menswear will arrive when the store opens this Fall, including clothes, shoes (a new graphic series of sneakers in stamped croc, some with neon details on the soles), bags (a leather sac designed to be either slung over the shoulder or worn around the waist), and jewelry.
Rumored yesterday, confirmed today, the latest designers to collaborate with H&M will be Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver. “I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world,” Elbaz said in a release this morning. The collections—both womenswear and menswear—will hit 200 stores worldwide beginning on November 20 in the United States. The collection will be revealed in a short film released November 2. More as we get it.
Also, look out for Style.com’s own little collaboration with Elbaz, coming September 15. Stay tuned for details.