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August 23 2014

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9 posts tagged "Lucas Ossendrijver"

Three’s a Trend: Man the Trenches

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Black trenches from Saint Laurent, Thom Browne, and Lanvin

As the Spring ’14 menswear collections wrapped in Paris over the weekend, a number of designers showed hyper-luxe takes on a bold wardrobe staple: the all-black leather trenchcoat.

Thom Browne‘s exercise in militaristic flamboyance offered a skirted patent-leather coat cut snug at the waist, trimmed with epaulets, and finished with heavy hardware. Hedi Slimane turned out a greased-up, banged-up iteration in one of his signature slim cuts at Saint Laurent. And lastly, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver delivered a supple, wide-collared option at Lanvin. While Elbaz said there was “nothing techno or digital” about the lineup, one can’t deny that this piece recalled Keanu Reeves’ iconic look from cinema’s ultimate cyber film: The Matrix.

Photos: Yannis Vlamos/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Saint Laurent, Lanvin);  Marcus Tondo/ InDigital/ GoRunway (Thom Browne)

Coming This Fall: Three Floors Of Lanvin Menswear In New York City

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Lucas Ossendrijver (pictured), Lanvin’s menswear designer, was in town from Paris today to walk a handful of editors and buyers through key looks from his Fall ’12 collection. There was plenty to ogle as Ossendrijver ticked off the fine points of the pieces, including details too subtle to be seen on the Paris runways: the silicone injections that—à la plastic surgery—gave knits roundness and volume; lapels half shorn off and then reattached askew; the overcoats whose sloped-forward shape was achieved by hand-sewing chains into the sides for a toothlike grip; jackets with sleeves so slimmed they required darts. There was a new silhouette to attempt if you dare—a high-waisted flare that at least one female editor in the room murmured she’d have no problem wearing if her male compatriots were too timid—and a parade of Frankensteined outerwear, with puffer pieces sewn on cabans and greatcoats, or a leather moto jacket whose pieces were bonded to boiled wool, which peeked out through the segments of skin. But the news of the day was the details Ossendrijver shared on the forthcoming Lanvin men’s store on Madison Avenue, just a block south of where the women’s store now stands. “I’m really excited,” he said. “It’s going to be almost a replication of the Paris store.” Three floors’ worth of menswear will arrive when the store opens this Fall, including clothes, shoes (a new graphic series of sneakers in stamped croc, some with neon details on the soles), bags (a leather sac designed to be either slung over the shoulder or worn around the waist), and jewelry.

A Magazine And Acne Paper Play Host In Paris

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The party people were out in force on Friday night in Paris’ Marais to celebrate the latest editions of two—get this—print magazines. The revolving-editor A Magazine chose Giambattista Valli to helm its new issue: his chosen theme, “real beauty,” and his cover, a portrait of River Phoenix by Michael Tighe (above right). Marina Abramovic, Nan Goldin, Chiara Clemente, Lee Radziwill, Peter Schlesinger, and Kenzo Takada all collaborated on the tenth issue, as did Sasha Pivovarova, who did a series of self-portraits. “This magazine is about what nourishes me; it’s another way to show my inspirations,” said Valli, who opened his exploration with a 1975 quote from Yves Saint Laurent: “What we imagine may be very beautiful but nothing replaces reality.” (To buy, visit www.bruil.info.)

Around the corner at the very private Maison de La Chasse, Maria Berenson and editor Thomas Persson (below right) co-hosted a fête for the new issue of Acne Paper, the Studio Issue, and Kristin Scott Thomas and Bruno Frisoni (below left), Nicola Formichetti, Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver and Elie Top, and Catherine Baba all dropped by to mill in the hunting house’s drawing rooms. The mag includes visits to, or representations of, the studios of artists like Matisse, Pollock, and Hockney, as well as photographic portfolios by Helmut Lang and Eric Boman. A nude Leigh Bowery (shot by Bruce Bernard as he sat for a portrait with Lucien Freud) appears on the cover (above left), and hostess Berenson is inside, shot by Katerina Jebb in Jean Cocteau’s house in Milly-La-Forêt. “Marisa’s grandmother, Elsa Schiaparelli, was so close to Cocteau it was natural to shoot her in his old house,” Persson explained of the spread, “and Acne is based on the idea of a creative collective, so we focused on artists’ studios as the place where creativity happens.” (To buy, visit Acne, 10 Greene St., NYC, or www.acnestudios.com.)

Photos: Courtesy of A Magazine; Courtesy of Acne Paper

In Orbit With Olympia Le-Tan

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Remember Eyjafjallajökull? Olympia Le-Tan sure does. The Icelandic volcano—and its lingering clouds of ash, which wrecked havoc on European aviation for a good while—forced the accessory designer to cancel a much anticipated trip to Thailand. “I was so angry, and I began to imagine that this might be the end,” Le-Tan said at a cocktail fête celebrating her new collection. But like any artist worth the name, she channeled her agita. “It gave me an idea,” she continued. Voilà: a new collection of bags and clutches, appropriately titled It’s Not the End of the World.

Lanvin’s Lucas Ossendrijver and Elie Top, Dior Joallerie’s Victoire de Castellane, Olivier Zahm, Sarah Lerfel, and Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim were among those who came to the planet room at Paris’ Palais de la Découverte to check it out. Le-Tan (left, with Vincent Darré, Camille Bidault-Waddington, and Top) looked to doomsday and sci-fi literature, space travel, and astronomy for Spring, and the collection includes an embroidered bag version of the original cover of H.G. Wells’ The War of the Worlds, planet-shaped cocktail bags, and Hotel Olympia satchels (below). Continue Reading “In Orbit With Olympia Le-Tan” »

It’s True: Lanvin For H&M

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Rumored yesterday, confirmed today, the latest designers to collaborate with H&M will be Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver. “I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world,” Elbaz said in a release this morning. The collections—both womenswear and menswear—will hit 200 stores worldwide beginning on November 20 in the United States. The collection will be revealed in a short film released November 2. More as we get it.

Also, look out for Style.com’s own little collaboration with Elbaz, coming September 15. Stay tuned for details.

Photo: Courtesy of Lanvin