10 posts tagged "Luella Bartley"
This season, Marc by Marc Jacobs hosted a virtual casting call via Instagram to find the fresh faces for its Fall ’14 campaign. More than 70,000 hopefuls applied to model Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s first collection for the label. Nine were chosen, and their vivid, badass, Technicolor David Sims-lensed images were unveiled earlier this week. But just who, pray tell, are the dynamic individuals who star in the Katie Grand-styled snaps? Why not have a look at brand’s behind-the-scenes film, which debuts exclusively here, and find out? Pay attention to what these youngsters have to say, dear readers, because who knows, maybe Marc will cast you next season.
A new figure will soon be charged with the future of Philosophy’s dreamy sensibilities. Creative director Natalie Ratabesi has parted ways with the house in the wake of increasingly poor sales, WWD reported this morning. Alberta Ferretti passed the reins of Philosophy to Ratabesi (a vet of Dior, Gucci, and Oscar de la Renta) in October 2012. The brand’s Spring 2015 offering will be designed by an in-house team.
Ratabesi’s departure comes on the heels of the enigmatic news from Aeffe SpA CFO and managing director Marcello Tassinari that the company was “taking action” to improve the line’s financial straits. Though the split comes “by common consent,” per an Aeffe SpA rep, some might see the move as a reaction to the also Aeffe-owned Moschino’s recent success under Jeremy Scott. The hires of Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley at Marc by Marc Jacobs makes a similar case for big names to refresh a brand that, as Marc Jacobs International president Robert Duffy admitted at the time, was “getting a little stale.” Only time will tell if a decisive appointment at Philosophy will translate into a similar renaissance.
Breakfast with my colleague Maya to go over the lineup for the next issue of Style.com/Print, which we put together while simultaneously covering the shows on the site and publish within a month of the close of Paris fashion week, a live-broadcast approach to making a magazine. Then it was off to the Rodarte show. Last season’s collection got slated, though I sort of liked its trashy energy. This one had more of the Mulleavy sisters’ customary handcrafted offbeat charm and should be a hit with their fans. After that it was on to Diesel Black Gold on the West Side, and then a meeting on the East Side with a European luxury house, who filled me in on its plans for a huge event later this spring.
Tons of energy and lots of food for thought at Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has been rechristened by its initials and is now in the hands of the London-based duo of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Something about the scale of the plywood set and the refracted references here made me think I could have been at a show in Paris. There was an intriguing magpie quality to the clothes, as if you were moving through the racks of Dover Street Market from the Japanese designer section to the sophisticated European section to the streetwear section. My favorite grouping was the BMX-inspired looks. The show was a bona fide smash with the audience. It’ll be interesting to see how the aesthetic, a break from the line’s more insouciant past, plays at retail. Delphine Arnault, of the parent group LVMH, was looking on from the front row.
Talking of Dover Street Market, I ran into the new Comme des Garçons-operated, multiretailer space on Lexington Avenue to say hello to Andre Walker. Walker is the first to describe himself as an “elusive” designer, and after a few stops and starts, he’s back with a small line, thanks to the encouragement of DSM’s Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo. You’ll find it on the seventh floor between Junya Watanabe and Prada, an indication of the esteem Kawakubo has for Walker.
Every season, there are a couple of models who break through and start popping up in all the big shows so that you can trace the day’s development through their changing hairstyles and runway attitudes. This season, those models are Binx Walton and Anna Ewers, who in the space of a few hours went from Bolshevik ninja at MBMJ to sleek gallerina at the serenely beautiful Narciso Rodriguez show that closed another day of New York fashion week.
This morning, Marc Jacobs announced that he is changing the name of his popular diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. “I’ve always hated that name,” Jacobs told British Vogue. Of course, the new name has yet to be unveiled; Jacobs is “superstitious” and apparently wants to wait for the right time. Might that be on February 11 at Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s first Marc by Marc Jacobs show? We wouldn’t be surprised. The news coincides with Jacobs’ recent departure from Louis Vuitton to focus on his main line as well as the company’s forthcoming IPO.
Luella Bartley (left) has been missed since she shuttered her whimsical namesake label back in 2009 due to recession woes, so for us fashion folk, news of her comeback has stirred up a healthy dose of excitement. Today, WWD announced that Bartley and fellow Brit designer Katie Hillier have been appointed as the new design director and creative director, respectively, of Marc by Marc Jacobs‘ womenswear range. This marks the first time in the line’s fifteen-year-history that anyone other than Jacobs has been in the spotlight for a design role in the women’s collection. Hillier, who, according to reports, was tapped first and then brought Bartley on board, has worked with Marc by Marc on a freelance basis for the last ten years. Jacobs will continue to oversee the overall creative direction of the range, and the pair’s efforts will first be seen in the Fall 2014 collection.