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4 posts tagged "Luisa Beccaria"

In Milan, Sci-Fi, Chiseled Male Models,
And Disco—Direct From The Church

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Francesca Versace—yes, of those Versaces—writes in from her jaunts around Milan fashion week.


There’s nothing quite like the feeling of fashion week in Milan, and there’s definitely an electricity in the air today. I love to take a moment and observe the madness at Café Cova—you can watch trends start to happen before your eyes. For this one week, everyone is trying desperately to outdo one another. The sidewalks and streets are the greatest runways of all.

I take in a few shows—the sci-fi looks at Ermanno Scervino, the English roses at Luisa Beccaria—and stop by my friend Kristina’s for a hush-hush fitting before she presents her collection. Then it’s off to the Zegna 100th anniversary party with my father. I see the lovely Anna Zegna, who reminds me that her first and only job outside her family’s company was her time with my late uncle Gianni. I do a tour of the gorgeous new store, designed by the brilliant Peter Marino—and stop to check out some of the chiseled Zegna-clad male models along the way. A man really cannot go wrong with a Zegna suit; it is the utmost mark of elegance and quality.

Finally, I rush over on my bicycle to see a former classmate of mine from Saint Martins, Mark Fast, and his super-hip, super-fun collection for the Italian label Pinko (pictured). Although we’re in a church, the mood is pure disco and high-octane glam. I love that Mark can maintain his vision yet breathe new life into an existing brand—that’s the beauty of these collaborations. The new and the old colliding—on the stores, on the streets, and on the runways.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Luisa Beccaria’s Flower Power Takes Bloom

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There was a loose, café-society feel at Luisa Beccaria’s show on Thursday. Editors sat on folding chairs at little tables covered with starched white cloths. And up front, Beccaria had arranged her burgeoning cottage industry. To the left was a set of glass objects that represented a “work in progress,” made in collaboration with one of the few glass factories left in Murano. Nearby stood a custom-made Citroën C3 Picasso, which the designer tailored for those women who like to overdose on femininity (a.k.a. her loyal customer).

The car was completely covered in a floral design, both inside and out. The dashboard was pale lilac with a sprinkle of glitter, while the gearshift was topped with a glass rose. As if that weren’t enough, there were various special cubbyholes designed to fit handbags and other bits and bobs deemed essential for all ladies. “Everyday objects such as cars tend to be cold and boring,” Beccaria explained. “I feel that I can give them life and a warmth with which it makes them easier to live.”

Photo: Courtesy of Luisa Beccaria

Sound Meets Vision: The Music of Milan Fashion Week

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Hard beats and powerful female voices—Tina Turner, Grace Jones—characterized the catwalk tunes this season. These strong sounds helped models put their best feet firmly forward. Here’s what we heard on the runways this week.

Blugirl

The Mood: Girly voices to sweet tunes
The Specifics: Feist, “1234″

Blumarine

The Mood: Melted-chocolate smooth tunes, transporting us back to the eighties
The Specifics: Grace Jones, “Sunrise Sunset”

Alberta Ferretti

The Mood: A meander through three versions of the same powerful nineties disco beat
The Specifics: “Your Love” by Florence and the Machine, Frankie
Kuckles, and Candi Station

Dolce & Gabanna

The Mood: An explosion of hard-beat grit
The Specifics: U2, “Get On Your Boots”

Salvatore Ferragamo

The Mood: A trip through haunting, melodic, and sophisticated sounds
The Specifics: Bat for Lashes, “A Forest”

Burberry Prorsum

The Mood: Earthy, almost acoustic tunes beautiful in their simplicity
The Specifics: Adele, “Hometown Glory”

C’N'C Costume National

The Mood: French pop eighties-style with a jumpy beat
The Specifics: Vive la Fête, “Nuit Blanche”

Missoni

The Mood: Retro-feel music moving from slouchy to stringy
The Specifics: Q-Tip, “Move”

Roberto Cavalli

The Mood: Squelchy techno
The Specifics: Franz Ferdinand, “Ulysses”

Giorgio Armani

The Mood: Strong and powerful classics
The Specifics: Grace Jones, “Sunset Sunrise”

Brioni

The mood: High-drama music tunes
The Specifics: Juno Reactor, “Rotorblade”

Luisa Beccaria

The Mood: Light tea-party tunes
The Specifics: René Aubry, “Désordre”

Gianfranco Ferré

The Mood: Postmodern smooth
The Specifics: Circlesquare, “Hey You Guys”

Photo: Amazon.com

a day in the life of: matteo ceccarini, dj

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Monday, 4 a.m.

I put the finishing touches on the soundtrack for today’s Missoni show. I am exhausted. I haven’t slept in two days. Yesterday, I spun at the Emporio Armani show. People were fighting over the Emporio Armani Café Vol. 4 CDs that were being passed out. I spent the evening spinning at the Hermès private party. I finally get to sleep.


10 a.m.

I wake up and have a decaf. I don’t know exactly whether I am in Milan, Venice, or still on holiday in Ibiza. Today is going to be a tough one. I’ll be spinning everything from modern ethnic to deep techno (Lulu Rouge) at the two Giorgio Armani shows. For Missoni, I’ve mixed a bunch of glam rock tracks by bands like the XX Teens. At Scognamiglio, I’ll set the dreamy mood with some Kate Bush.


11:30 a.m.

I drop by the studio to pick up the CDs for the shows and call a taxi. In addition to today’s shows, I also have several meetings. My assistants are beyond stressed. No time to eat. Food is but a memory.


3 p.m. Reflection

During the shows I think about the important role that music plays in all of this. It is a real satisfaction to see the audience applauding at exactly the moment you thought they would—right there on the swell of the melody or when the music varies during a specific change of clothes. I love to be a part of making a great fashion show. I have been doing this passionately for 15 years.


5 p.m.

I am halfway through my day. I manage to grab a sandwich backstage at Missoni. I want to eat in peace but my phone won’t quit ringing. I try to stay clear-headed. Vivienne Westwood taught me the “if you’re in a hurry, slow down” mantra. I keep smiling, kissing, and hugging the fashion editors and stylists I meet.


6 p.m.

Having almost run a lady over with my car, I arrive at Luisa Beccaria and show them the music I’ve selected for their show. Luisa Beccaria and her beautiful daughters exist in a fairy-tale world. Her music is a journey through dreamy melodies like Ciaykowski to Philip Glass, passed through modern beats (CocoRosie), to create an almost supernatural sound. I also get a call from the people at Brioni telling me the techno percussion soundtrack I did for them is perfect.


10 p.m.

I finish my meeting with Nikos Lagousakos, who’s doing the choreography for the Tod’s megaparty on Wednesday night. We arranged the music for the show that will take place during the VIP dinner. I eat a salad and drag myself to bed. Tomorrow will be like today and today I am happy.