28 posts tagged "Lulu Kennedy"
Believe it or not, the Spring ’15 shows are just around the corner, which means it’s time for us to reveal the trio of up-and-comers who have earned the support of Lulu Kennedy’s young designer initiative, Fashion East. This season, whimsical maximalist Edward Marler, a Central Saint Martins grad who already counts Katie Grand and M.I.A. as fans, will join returning talents Helen Lawrence and Louise Alsop. All three emerging designers will present their collections in the Fashion East group show during London fashion week. “Our lineup represents the ideas, energy, and boldness of the London scene right now,” Kennedy told Style.com. “Each designer feels totally relevant and on message.” Considering former Fashion Easters include Meadham Kirchhoff, Jonathan Saunders, and Simone Rocha, you can bet that, come 1 p.m. on September 16, our eyes will be glued to the Fashion East runway.
From the Operating Room to Sumba, Fashion East’s Menswear Designers Find Inspiration in Unlikely Places-------
Fashion East Men’s latest outing was inventive even by its high standards, proof that Lulu Kennedy’s talent farm keeps producing the best of breed. It started with a clinical and slightly sinister jewelry collection from Alan Crocetti (the man behind the mouthpieces at Bobby Abley’s MAN Fall 2014 show). The goods were inspired by the external fixtures that hold surgically inserted pins in a broken bone. There were a couple firsts in the jewelry world: a “palm ring” (a band that wrapped around the hand) and a silver tab placed above the nose in the same way a bandage would appear after rhinoplasty surgery (pictured, below).
Next up was textile specialist Edward Crutchley, who became obsessed with ikat prints after a recent trip to Sumba, Indonesia. Ikat is a busy pattern to begin with, but that didn’t stop the designer from layering one look with leggings, shorts, and a tunic in the print.
Marques’Almeida carried on its love affair with deconstructed, raw-edged denim, taking a cue from its own FW 2014 women’s collection. Loose, slouchy denim with raw hems said hip kids on a road trip.
A surprise last-minute guest was the California-born, British-educated Shaun Samson, who, after some visa issues, came back to London late last night. Models lounging around cots in a “tent” sported board shorts with doodle prints, graphic thunderclap sweaters, and Boy Scout scarves. Talk about camp.
The final designer, Martine Rose, a Fashion East veteran who was invited back for this outing, was brief in her presentation—just one look of her trademark baggy sweatpants combined with a long leather jacket and knit turtleneck (pictured, below). The ensemble was a teaser for a larger project she has slated for the fall with a top photographer, but for now she remains tight-lipped on the details.
They’re coming…The Spring ’15 menswear shows are upon us, set to kick off in London on June 15, and this season, Fashion East’s Menswear Presentations are back with a bold quartet of up-and-coming brands. On June 16, Lulu Kennedy’s emerging talent initiative will invite jewelry designer Alan Crocetti, textile specialist Edward Crutchley, Fashion East womenswear alums Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida, and special guest Martine Rose to show off their latest menswear offerings. “We love putting on the presentations—everything from curating the mix of talented designers both brand-new and established, to watching guests explore the venue,” Kennedy told Style.com. “The way the designers show off their work is always highly creative and individual. You get a real sense of their ‘worlds,’ and unlike a catwalk show, they can be front-of-house, chatting to journalists and buyers and enjoying the atmosphere—which is always party-like!” This season will be more “party-like” than ever, thanks to Fashion East’s ongoing partnership with Red Bull Catwalk Studio and a special performance from producer and rapper Rejjie Snow. But don’t be mistaken—Fashion East isn’t just about a good time and bumpin’ beats. If the success of its menswear alums like Craig Green, Sibling, Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, and Lou Dalton is any indication, Kennedy’s platform is the premier place to spot the fashion stars of tomorrow.
Lulu Kennedy had rainbows on the mind when dreaming up Lulu & Co’s Fall ’14 collection—specifically how they perfectly represent the seventies Beat generation and the intellectual hippie who defined that era. “The Beat generation was all about spiritual leaders expressing themselves in a counterculture way: They were protesting at rallies, writing poetry, and generally making a lot of noise. It was like old-school social media,” Kennedy told Style.com. This translated into studied seventies looks, created via blouses with exaggerated collars, flared trousers with tiny rainbows, and mid-length denim skirts. Hexagonal prints on dresses, crystal floral details on belts and collars, and subtle Lurex trims kept things interesting and modern. Then there were those rainbows, which appeared on sweatshirts, dresses, and the trims of pockets and sleeves.
Every season, Kennedy collaborates with a creative, and this time around she chose Chad Wys, the very young American artist with a painterly, surreal aesthetic. A sweater boasting a Marie Antoinette-like figure, but with three slashes of paint across her body, is a standout. A Vermeer-esque landscape scene on a dress is given the same treatment. The whole effect is a jolting one, the collection what Kennedy considers a perfect fusion of two of her favorite things: art and fashion. Seems like many agree. At Net-a-Porter, 70 percent of the Spring ’14 was gone four days after it became available. And judging by what we’ve seen, Fall ’14 may well top that impressive statistic.
This collection also comes from a nostalgic place. “My parents were hippies and I grew up in this kind of environment, so it was fun for me to re-create my childhood memories. Also, while we were working on the collection, I was pregnant, and from early on I knew what her name would be.” The little girl (who’s just 3 weeks old now) is called Rainbow. Looks like the “Co” in Lulu & Co just got a little bigger—by 7 pounds and 3 ounces, to be exact.
Long gone are the days when skirts on men used to shock. Now we have aprons, dangly double tribal earrings, balaclavas, and patent-leather chokers. Or, at least, that’s what we saw at Fashion East’s Fall ’14 menswear installations in London today. Lulu Kennedy’s emerging-designer initiative welcomes three new talents this season: jeweler Roxanne Farahmand, shirtmaker Massimo Casagrande, and CSM grad Nicomede Talavera (above, left) join Fashion East veterans Tom Ryling (above, right) and Liam Hodges. These three may be freshmen, but they each offered that daring, eyebrow-raising edge that has become synonymous with the platform.
Talavera cited artist Robert Morris as inspiration, but his lineup felt more Star Trek: The Original Series. Graphic, Spock-like sweaters, leather chokers, too-long spliced pant hems over Vans, three-quarter-length aprons draped just so, and color-blocked details reminded us why the word directional was probably invented for Fashion East. Casagrande took cues from artist Adam McEwen’s photographs of New York sidewalks and turned out wares with studs, graphics, and rubber details.
Farahmand, who used to work with Dominic Jones, looked like she had the Fast and the Furious on her brain—speed was her Fall ’14 theme. Tattooed models with menacing haircuts and even scarier oversize knuckle-dusters were draped over fast cars, showing off her rings, necklaces, and bracelets. Amusing under-the-armpit body harnesses and straps over trainers looked so cool, we didn’t care if there was a purpose behind them—and we were too afraid to ask.
Ryling, meanwhile, put balaclavas on his models. He also showed some great graffitied and paint-splattered jean jackets, and trousers with red chiffon overlays. Rounding it out was Hodges, who carried on his theme from last season—no “high-borns,” please. Steel-toed workman boots, lashings of electrical tape, cracked leather, hoodies, and boxy silhouettes made Hodges’ boys look like they were ready to rumble at any time.