23 posts tagged "Lulu Kennedy"
London’s final day of shows featured outings from J.W. Anderson, Margaret Howell, Pringle of Scotland, and Christopher Raeburn. It also offered a moment to check out the installations from Fashion East, Lulu Kennedy’s young-gun incubator of emerging talent. Tim Blanks took a tour.
Ben Kirchhoff went back to his London roots with Meadham Kirchhoff’s first collection for men (pictured), not only because he started out with menswear in his pre-Meadham days at Saint Martins but also because, when he first arrived in London, he lived in a squat in the general neighborhood of the imposing Georgian mansion where the duo showed their new work. So that glorious vista of green trees and blue sky (yes, the sun shone for a moment) had once been his. And so had the pell-mell, headily fragranced tumble of clothes, boys, flowers, and skip-surfed remnants with which MK filled the eighteenth-century salons. They’re now a fully fledged cult. The cultists were scarcely disappointed, but anyone else who’s been wondering what might be in the pipeline after the suited, booted sartorial conservatism that many of the fashion boys have been working over the past three days might also catch a glimpse of a possible future in MK’s extravagant wrack of the West.
They were sharing the house with the latest crop of designers that Lulu Kennedy was introducing to the world under the Fashion East banner. Downstairs, Duffy showed his silver jewelry with its occult undertones in a room that could have been built for that purpose alone. And Craig Green, fresh out of Saint Martins, showed eerie, homespun clothes—in calico, cheesecloth, cotton knit, and suede screen-printed to a crunchy finish—which suggested ancient rituals in pagan communities cut off from the world. The Wicker Man was an inspiration. No surprises there.
Ritual also infused Tom Lipop’s tailoring with a colorful Mexican twist, or at least the Day of the Dead did, because his models were made up as leering skulls. The boys were packed away on shelves and in drawers, a memorable way to guarantee maximal impact on a minimal budget. Kit Neale managed the same effect by filling his space with a huge fairground snake, which complemented his extravagant prints (particularly liked the lobster ensemble). Idiosyncrasy, playfulness, and obsession rule in the universe of Fashion East. Marten van der Horst’s heavy-metal mutant T-shirts had all that.
Over the weekend, Carey Mulligan married musician Marcus Mumford in the Somerset countryside. Although photos of Mulligan’s dress have not yet surfaced, she reportedly wore an ivory-colored Prada number. [Vogue U.K.]
During the recent Vogue Festival in the U.K., models including Lily Cole, Jourdan Dunn, and Eva Herzigova shared stories about their fashion careers. After making a comment that “it’s better to be skinny than to be fat,” Natalia Vodianova is under fire on the blogs today. The model was referring to the obesity epidemic, adding, “children taken away from their parents because they are too fat—read Daily Mail.” [Telegraph]
Fashion East’s founding force, Lulu Kennedy, has joined Katie Grand at Love magazine. This morning, it was announced that Kennedy (who is often referred to as London fashion’s ‘fairy godmother’) is now the editor at large of the mag. “Over the many fun years and nights out that I’ve known Lulu, I’ve always been hugely impressed with her ability to discover the brightest new talents, and by her commitment to nurturing young designers as they navigate their way into the fashion industry,” Grand, Love‘s editor in chief, tells WWD. [WWD]
Alessandra Ambrosio, who is pregnant with her second child, recently stripped down for a photo shoot to show off her baby bump. The Victoria’s Secret Angel posted the new Mert and Marcus-shot photos, in which she strikes the infamous Demi Moore pregnant pose, to her Facebook yesterday. [Huff Po]
Mother of Pearl’s Maia Norman—surfer chick-turned-fashion designer—always puts Mother Earth first. So for her dinner in London last night, she chose Senkai, the Japanese restaurant that sources all of its food locally and abides by a sustainable and ethical menu. “You have to respect nature and heed its power,” Norman said over salad and sushi. “When I design, I think of the elements. When I am out there surfing, I need to be insulated from the wind and the water. When I am on my motorbike, I need to be well protected and padded if I ever fall off. I think there are so many of us whose clothes need to conform to their lifestyle, not vice versa.” That may explain why her profile is growing swiftly in Asia and the Middle East.
Norman’s clothes—leathers and cashmeres in Smartie candy shades—conform to the less sporting part of her own lifestyle: her long relationship with husband Damien Hirst. Artist collaborations have become a calling card of the line (in the past, she has worked with the likes of Jim Lambie and Fiona Banner), and last night she offered a glimpse into the the Fall ’12 collection she’s currently preparing: its visiting artist is New York sensation Fred Tomaselli. “Fred is a good friend and his work is wild, inspiring. I asked him once, twice, and three times to collaborate—each time he said no. Finally, years on, he had a change of heart and said yes.”
Reason enough for friends like Lulu Kennedy, Polly Morgan, Richard Mortimer, and Pam Hogg to raise a glass. Hogg had something to celebrate, too: One of her pieces just made the cover of British Vogue. Gisele is wearing “leggings I made eight years ago!” she revealed. “It’s amazing that they liked them enough to keep them that long.”
“I was in a romantic mood this time around,” Lulu Kennedy reported at the star-studded lunch to celebrate the Fall collection from her supergroup-style label, Lulu & Co., at the very swank Harry’s Bar, a venue that’s light-years away from her gritty home turf in East London. Kennedy (pictured, right) is the founder of Fashion East, the legendary talent incubator that’s spawned the likes of Gareth Pugh, Jonathan Saunders, Richard Nicoll, and Roksanda Ilincic, and for her namesake label, she collaborates with her protegés and other young guns of interest. Her mood this year led her to include a few couples as collaborators, including artists Tim Noble and Sue Webster, besties Bella Freud (center) and Susie Bick, and photographer and art director Patrick Waugh and Alistair McLellan.
Kennedy and business partner Tania Fares (left) created Lulu & Co. last year to celebrate a decade of Fashion East, and it proved so popular they did it again. As last season, there’s a retrospective shine over the whole. “This year, it’s a mix of Fashion East past and present,” Kennedy said. “We have the couples who are new, but also the old—the journeymen of Fashion East like Jonny Saunders and Richard Nicoll. We worked hard at making the clothes more affordable and wearable.” (There’s a word not always top of mind for Kennedy’s kindred on their own runways.)
Charlotte Dellal, Mary McCartney (Stella’s photographer sister), Camilla Al Fayed, Sara Parker Bowles, Liberty Ross, and a clutch of designers including Roland Mouret, Erdem Moralioglu (below left), Roksanda Ilincic, Nicholas Kirkwood (below right), and Marios Schwab all stopped by to toast to the new. (Though Harry’s did make for a bit of culture clash—Henry Holland tweeted that he needed to get special dispensation to enter wearing his shorts.)
Of course, as more and more interest is directed at London’s new garde, there’ll be plenty more meet-ups of the gritty and the glamorous. England has just gotten a stylish new royal client of particularly high profile, and one wonders if she’ll be as receptive to young U.K. designers as her counterpart of sorts, Michelle Obama, has been to young Americans. “I think her McQueen wedding dress was beautiful, but I think now she should turn her eye to some other U.K. designers,” Kennedy said. “We are working on Resort now with Roksanda, and there is this gorgeous black and white draped number and I thought, wow, this dress needs an occasion and certainly [the Duchess of Cambridge] will have plenty of those. We will send her the lookbook, so fingers crossed. I mean, Mrs. Obama chose Roksanda, so here’s hoping that the Duchess will, too.”