52 posts tagged "LVMH"
All marriages have their difficulties, and Donna Karan isn’t afraid to talk about them. In an interview with The New York Times, the veteran designer, who sold her company to LVMH in 2001, said her relationship with the French fashion company (which also owns Céline, Dior, Marc Jacobs, and, of course, Louis Vuitton) has been a little chilly. “Vuitton runs their businesses separately,” she said. “I would love to work more with them, but Vuitton has given me the cold shoulder.” Specifically, Karan notes that LVMH has not been as supportive as she’d hoped in the often-lucrative accessories business. “We were the first one to get into the alligator bags. One of the appeals of the sale to LVMH is that they would have been the perfect partner in handbags, but instead they saw me as a fashion designer.” Sure, everyone bashes their boss behind closed doors, but it’s rare for a designer to air her displeasure with a company as powerful as LVMH so publicly. To be continued, as they say.
J.W. Anderson‘s Jonathan Anderson is making some big moves on the business front. The London-based designer has hired a seasoned CEO, Simon Whitehouse, who previously held executive posts at Diesel and Matthew Williamson; has set up shop in his new 4,000-square-foot headquarters in Dalston, and is set to launch e-commerce on June 16. These are the first major business-oriented developments for Anderson, who also serves as the creative director at Loewe, since LVMH took a minority stake in his budding brand last year. No doubt, this is just the beginning of Anderson’s evolution from fledgling British talent to international luxury label. But the 29-year-old has wisely taken a slow-and-steady approach, rather than diving in headfirst. “When you are doing this level of work it is like kind of training for a marathon,” he told The Business of Fashion. “You cannot take the whole thing at once and sprint it.”
There’s much to be said for the luxury of the discreet, something Moynat has in spades. Sans screaming logos, and even sans advertisements, the Parisian luggage label has made its name on the weight of an impressive heritage. Now, after more than a century and a half, the brand will make its first foray into the stateside market, with a temporary ground-floor boutique in New York’s Dover Street Market. The space opens tomorrow.
Since its inception in 1849, Moynat has enjoyed a storied history as a malletier alongside counterparts Goyard and Vuitton, outfitting Europe’s upper echelons with bespoke trunks. Long before Mulberry’s Alexa, Marc’s Stam, or even the Birkin, there was Moynat’s Réjane, a handbag en homage to celebrated Belle Epoque actress Gabrielle Réjane. But by the latter half of the 20th century, the tide had turned. The grande dame Parisian boutique shuttered in the mid-seventies and Moynat languished more or less in obscurity until being acquired by LVMH in 2010. Since then, CEO Guillaume Davin and artistic director Ramesh Nair have been tasked with reacquainting the world with the house’s former glory. First up was a 2,150-square-foot flagship at 348 Rue Saint-Honoré, which bowed in 2011. Nair has paid particular attention to a sense of joie de vivre, whipping up a sumptuous valise specifically to house the macarons of Pierre Hermé and an opulent, bicycle-mounted picnic case for those who would take their lunch alongside the Seine. A first international boutique opened its doors in London just a month ago, and tomorrow, Midtown East.
Le Moynat Trunk Show (a tribute to the brand’s historic “caravan” approach to presenting their wares abroad) has made stops previously at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris and Isetan Shinjuku in Tokyo. Along with a bevy of other goods, the Dover Street installment will feature two one-off, hand-painted Quattro bags inspired by New York. “We wanted to blend into [the space] and at the same time tell a story, because for us the most important element in debuting in New York is to share a bit of our history and show our values,” Davin says. Happily, Comme des Garçons CEO Adrian Joffe and his team have endeavored to make that as liberating an experience as possible. “We give them a space and a few health and safety rules, and then leave them complete freedom to do what they want. We urge them to be creative and to be freer than they would be normally. We encourage them to ignore corporate constraints where possible.”
While the pairing of famously cutting-edge DSM and a historic brand unfazed by trend or the passage of time may seem incongruous at first glance, Joffe is quick to dismiss any naysaying. “The juxtaposition of heritage and strong fashion is a very important part of Dover Street Market, just as is the clashing of luxury and streetwear, the iconic and the iconoclastic, the simple and the more complicated—all go toward the aim of an exciting shopping experience through the realization of beautiful chaos. Creative, visionary people do not need borders and boundaries and categorization.”
Le Moynat Trunk Show will be open at Dover Street Market New York, located at 160 Lexington Avenue, from April 24 to June 22.