10 posts tagged "M. Patmos"
Following its 2014 CFDA victory, it was perhaps no surprise that fledgling brand Public School, helmed by Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow, were selected as the regional finalists for the inaugural International Woolmark Prize for menswear. As soon as editors and insiders walked into Milk Studios’ penthouse last night, where the regional womenswear winner, M.Patmos, was also announced, it was easy to see which 100 percent merino wool ensemble the duo had turned out for the competition. Their gray high-necked hoodie and shorts look, crafted from boiled, felted wool and trimmed with bonded rubber, was the epitome of the brand’s street-meets-luxury menswear aesthetic. “We were up to our ears in wool!” laughed Chow when asked about creating the outfit. “We wanted to base it on the idea that wool is really the oldest fiber used by humans. We wanted to make something that was timeless and that could be worn in this lost civilization that was between ancient times and a postapocalyptic world.” Menswear judge Alexander Wang (a “formidable debate partner,” according to fellow judge and presenter David Granger, the editor in chief of Esquire) told us that he was looking for someone who had a “unique point of view. [The designers had to] fully understand who [they're] speaking to, what [their] brand is about, and where [they] want to take it.” No doubt, Public School ticked all the boxes. Osborne and Chow will now go on to design a six-piece wool collection, which will be presented when they compete against finalists from Europe, Asia, Australia, and India and the Middle East in London in January of next year. And they feel confident about their chances for taking the $95,000 final prize. “I think we’re cool because we’ve really thought out the six looks,” said Chow. “It’s going to be really sick if we can develop it in the way we conceptualized it.”
The womenswear winner, who along with the menswear champions took home $47,000, was less of a sure thing—and the competition, which included Rosie Assoulin, Jonathan Simkhai, Nonoo, and Whit, was stiff. But given M.Patmos designer Marcia Patmos’ experience with knits (she used to design them for Lutz & Patmos), firm understanding of her customer, and standout wool getup, this award was, in retrospect, hers to lose. “I was thinking about a woman who was traveling, and she’s possibly going to lose her luggage,” Patmos told us. “She’s going to many countries in different climates, and what she’s wearing has to get her through all situations,” she added of her look, which featured seamless knitting, double-faced tailoring, a vegetable dye painting technique, and hand-knitting. The end result comprised a crisp cream-and-tan overcoat, ribbed stirrup leggings, cropped gray trousers, and a simple sweater dress. Indeed, Patmos’ model looked as though she was ready for anything.
Patmos is more excited than nervous about the 2015 finals in Beijing. And the designer revealed that she’ll be collaborating with artist Ryan McGinness on her upcoming Spring ’15 collection. “We’re doing something really good!” she beamed. We’re looking forward to it.
Things are changing for this year’s International Woolmark Prize competition. For the first time ever, two designers will be receiving the overall award—one for menswear, one for womenswear—and we’re already placing our bets on the USA nominees, which were announced today. Jonathan Simkhai, M.Patmos, Nonoo, Rosie Assoulin, and Whit will duke it out for womenswear, while A.A. Antonio Azzuolo, Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, Ovadia & Sons, Public School, Timo Weiland, and Todd Snyder will compete for the menswear title. “The addition of a menswear award this year signifies the strength and following of the International Woolmark Prize and its impact over the past two years across the globe,” said Stuart McCullough, The Woolmark Company managing director. “Previous winners Christian Wijnants from Belgium and Rahul Mishra from India have both experienced exponential increase in the turnover of their businesses, becoming international names overnight after their respective wins in London in 2013 and Milan in 2014.”
Regional competitions are also taking place in Asia, Europe, Australia, and India/Middle East to select ten finalists, who will each receive AU $50,000 ($47,000 USD) toward their next collection, as well as an invitation to the international final. (As you may recall, Joseph Altuzarra represented the USA last year.) The two overall winners will receive AU $100,000 ($94,000 USD) to go toward the fabric sourcing and marketing of their collections, and will also have the opportunity to sell their collection at Harvey Nichols, Colette, Saks Fifth Avenue, and other key retailers around the world.
For more than ten years now, California-based designer Melissa Joy Manning has been crafting ethically sourced, delicately sculptural eco-jewelry. Tonight, she opens her first New York flagship store with a private party, which her pal, model and actress Amber Valletta, will cohost. The two share a passion for sustainable design—they work together on the CFDA’s Sustainability Committee, and Valletta recently launched her own eco-conscious e-commerce site, Master & Muse, which offers sustainable wares from labels like Vivienne Westwood and M.Patmos. Now they’re pushing for sustainable consciousness throughout the industry, and Manning’s almost entirely green new store is a testament to her dedication to the cause. Located at 12 Wooster Street, the 4,500-square-foot boutique boasts details crafted almost entirely from relics found in the 1880s manufacturing space-turned-loft. Manning’s centerpieces, for instance, were made from repurposed display cases, and a wall of jewelry boxes was born out of the building’s old wooden doors. “I really wanted to almost become the caretaker of the space—elevate it, stabilize it, and reuse everything that we found,” said Manning, who will carry eco-conscious pieces from designers like Pamela Love and Mark Davis. “Aside from half a dozen pieces, everything was reused.”
Ahead of the store’s opening, we caught up with Manning and Valletta to discuss their friendship, how to further the sustainable fashion dialogue, and why big brands need to “come out of the [eco] closet.”
You’ve been working to promote sustainability in fashion for quite some time. What is the main priority right now? What should the fashion industry be focusing on as a whole?
Melissa Joy Manning: We’re in an education phase. There are certain people who are doing really great sustainability work already, but in the luxury sector, we have consumers who are able to pay a little bit more or who can become educated and drive trends. Our efforts in the CFDA are about asking designers to make thoughtful choices, then providing them with the information that allows them to do so. In a consumer market where it’s supply versus demand, if we’re demanding the right products, we’re eventually going to switch the supply and all fashion will have to be sustainable, right? The fashion industry is the world’s second-largest gross consumer—and gross polluter—and if we don’t make changes now, there are going to be some really dire consequences.
Amber Valletta: It’s really about education and awareness. We’re seeing more and more articles about all these things that are happening in the world and in our country. Sustainability is about workers’ rights, too. A few people were killed in Jakarta a week ago over protesting for their wages. We’re seeing an upswing in the consciousness of making things sustainably—not just on the environmental level but on the human level. Because of that, consumers are asking, “What’s really happening? I thought we fixed this problem with child labor.” But it’s not a done deal. There are serious problems that we’re facing throughout the fashion industry, from the beginnings of making textiles to the finished products. Consumers aren’t completely aware of how begging for new products every two weeks is hurting the planet and workers. And I don’t mean that in a hippie or granola way. I love luxury items and beautiful things and great design, but I do believe that sustainability can go hand in hand with great design.
What designers or brands are getting it right at the moment?
AV: There are a lot. Natalie Chanin won the CFDA Eco-Fashion Challenge for her company called Alabama Chanin. She’s pretty incredible. On a community level, she’s getting people back to work and getting them employed, and she’s helping to bring back the textile business in the South, which was on its way out. Daniel Silverstein is great; Isabell de Hillerin is great. We could give you lists and lists! And I think it’s just a matter of time before these names pop and become bigger brands. I don’t think any of these guys are trying to be household names. But I think these brands have weight and staying power.
MJM: To Amber’s point, I think small businesses or small companies can take more risks and make choices that are based on responsibility as opposed to profit. There are also a lot of brands that are making sustainable efforts but are afraid to say what they’re doing until they’re one hundred percent. Adidas, for instance, won’t publish all of its sustainable accomplishments. In order to create momentum within the industry, we need to build brands up, rather than knocking them down by saying, “Oh, you’re eighty percent sustainable, but it’s not enough.” My hope [is that] through our committee and through working with people like Amber and her website, we will be able to bolster them and create more proactive, positive change.
AV: I totally agree with Melissa. These bigger companies that are actually household names are doing so much—more than what we know. They [need to] come out of the closet basically and start joining in on the conversation. It’s not a black-and-white subject. We need more transparency from everybody. Continue Reading “Melissa Joy Manning and Amber Valletta Bring Sustainability to Soho” »
“It’s fashion-forward to buy better,” model-turned-mom-turned-model-again Amber Valletta reasons, providing perhaps the best tagline for her latest endeavor, Master & Muse. The eco-fashion initiative with Yooxygen (the environmentally aware arm of yoox.com) is aiming to gain a few converts with that credo as well as a carefully selected list of brands that Valletta found herself. “We sought out designers and brands that provide high-fashion luxury coupled with sustainability,” Valletta says of the range, which hits yoox.com tomorrow. She later explained that, like the duality evident in the relationship between a master and a muse, “style does not have to be at the expense of social responsibility. They are interdependent and interconnected.”
The two-hundred-piece collection includes core apparel and accessory designs from the likes of Vivienne Westwood, Good Society, and M Patmos. The selection plays with the contradictions Valletta sees in femininity. The Master, more rigorous and tailored, counterbalances the Muse, more poetic and eclectic. But no matter their divide, “it comes down to great design, sourcing and producing both ethically and sustainably,” Valletta maintains. “The brands we offer on Master & Muse are problem-solving through innovation,” she adds. She hopes the project will help inspire continued change throughout the fashion industry. Get a sneak peek at some Master & Muse wares from Mich Dulce, M Patmos, Guava, and Vivienne Westwood (below), as well as a Craig McDean-lensed campaign image (above), exclusively on Style.com.