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April 21 2014

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4 posts tagged "Made"

Yohji Yamamoto on the Old, the New, and the Now

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Just in time for Berlin’s Gallery Weekend, Yohji Yamamoto descended upon the city for “Yamamoto in Berlin.” The four-day Yohji extravaganza boasted the debut of 5 Cuts—a collaborative video installation, with art space Made, that details Yamamoto’s views on love, life, and creation—as well as the opening of an exhibition by Yamamoto’s set designer, Masao Nihei, and a special runway show comprising Yamamoto’s greatest hits since 1992.

The Japanese designer’s visit to the city was eagerly anticipated by the fashion industry and scenesters alike, only growing stronger through all the rumors about his presence (“I heard he’s using ‘real’ people in the show!”) and the battalion of branded Yohji Yamamoto Audi shuttle cars that invaded the streets of Berlin. The biggest expectations of the visit, however, were perhaps those of the designer himself. “I was dreaming about how Berlin would have changed,” he said after his runway show. “I was here twenty-three years ago, with Wim Wenders, who was editing my movie. At that time, the wall was still up, and I took a tour around it. I was dreaming that Berlin might have changed in a good way—keeping good traditional points, constructing new [modern] buildings, and maintaining this strong mix between the two. But after arriving here, I was a bit disappointed. It looks too flat.” If he was disappointed by Germany, he hasn’t been disappointed by the German people. “I have been working in Paris for about thirty-one years, but most of my closest friends are all German,” he said. “I came here because Berlin is close to Eastern Europe and Russia. It’s a chance to connect with the new market.”

After more than three decades in the business, Yamamoto continues to strive for the new—new designs, new customers, and new twists of fate for his once-beleaguered business. His takeaway from it all? “Keep being yourself, then you will feel the new wind start blowing,” he offered. “People started getting tired about fast fashion and too-luxurious accessories. So I felt a new wind starting to blow. People started looking for something real, something serious to wear. I’m talking about clothing. As proof, continuously for the last two years, my new company has been making money. It was a big surprise.”

Photos: Maxime Ballesteros (Portrait); Alonso Dominguez (Runway show)

Pamela Loves Parties

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Pamela Love’s approach to Fall ’13 was, as she succinctly put it, “No show, just a party.” Last night, the jewelry designer was at Milk Studios, her usual fashion-week venue—but she wasn’t posted in one of the white-walled studios. This time around, she was in the underground concert space, hosting a closing night of sorts for MADE fashion week. (This side of the Atlantic, at least: The emerging-designer-friendly platform will have its inaugural season in Paris later this month, at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild.)

Not that Love has been a slouch this show season: She did the accessories for Mara Hoffman, Creatures of the Wind, and Monique Lhuillier. Her Valentine’s Day basement party provided a warm-up of sorts for the back-in-action blues band VietNam, which has a new album out and is about to start touring. Fun fact: The band’s label, Mexican Summer, is run by Andres Santo Domingo and Keith Abrahamsson—gents who are both married to high-powered fashion pros.

“I definitely felt a little bit of emptiness in my heart this season, because I love doing presentations,” said Love, whose jewelry showcases tend to be the opposite of generic. “But I wanted to keep it more private this time around. And presentations are a lot of work.”

Photo: Carly Otness/BFAnyc.com

One To Watch: Nolan Bellavance

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“Five judges, five different backgrounds, and we were all unanimous,” designer Antonio Berardi (pictured, right) told Style.com after crowning the first winner of the MADE for Peroni Young Designer Award this week. The clear-cut winner out of the ten Parsons fashion alumni competing, according to the five fashion insider judges (a team that included Berardi, Jenne Lombardo, Simon Collins, Roopal Patel, and Francesco Carrozzini), was up-and-coming Parsons BFA graduate Nolan Bellavance (pictured, left). “His work is incredibly modern, super-chic, and feels new. I think he could be a very big star,” says Berardi, dubbing him the next “Peter Pilotto or Proenza Schouler.” “His prints are unlike anything anyone else is doing,” he added, highlighting a print dress from Bellavance’s offerings as a favorite.

Those are certainly big shoes to fill, but to help get him going, Berardi will serve as Bellavance’s mentor (and the young star has received $25,000 to finance his debut collection and $20,000 from Peroni to produce the showcase of his first full-fledged collection at MADE fashion week). Until then, Berardi’s advice to the designer: “This is the beginning, so it’s time for him to explore who he is. With every new young designer, they have to get some things out of their system. Gradually you fall into your shoes.” As for Berardi, he is off to Milan and straight into fittings. “I didn’t even know fashion week shows had officially started here in New York,” he admits. When his clothes hit the catwalk in London, expect to see him toying with the proportions of separates. Plus, there are embroideries “that look like they are on fire,” he hints.

London In the Rink

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Brooklyn rapper Theophilus London is putting up a good fight with the Kills for Most Fashion Week Performances this season. After he performed at the amfAR gala, stepped out on the runway to provide the soundtrack at Rebecca Minkoff’s show, and played at Rachel Roy’s after-party, we’ve learned he’s got another gig lined up for tomorrow night. Bringing fashion week to a close, London will open the Made vs. The Standard hockey game on the ice rink at the Standard hotel. Though he’s not yet confirmed to play in the game, the rapper will be sporting a Team Made “Money Click” shirt, so we can only make a strong guess as to what team he will be on. As for who will make up the rest of the team members, it’s under wraps for now.

Photo: Courtesy Photo