3 posts tagged "Madeleine Vionnet"
Through its latest exhibition, 1931, Face-Dos-Profil (1931, Front-Back-Side), Paris’ Galliera Museum offers a detailed look at the fashions of the 1930s. But the photographs featured in the show, selected from a collection of 10,000 copyrighted documents from the period (courtesy of Paris’ patent office) look more like mug shots of well-dressed delinquents than haute relics. The vintage snaps depict couture-clad ladies posing in front of a three-sided mirror and offer complete 360-degree views of the 1930s’ most covetable designs (think beach pajamas, romantic satin ruffle dresses, sheaths constructed with a complex system of figure-hugging seams, and sumptuous evening wrap coats in silk velvet and white ermine) from the era’s most sought-after names (like Schiaparelli and Mainbocher).
The images, you see, served to prevent knockoffs. In 1931, a large-scale counterfeit clothing operation—which had illegally obtained couture sketches—was uncovered in Paris. Not surprisingly, that same year, a record number of couture houses (almost 50 in all), including Madeleine Vionnet and Lanvin, patented the hats, bags, dresses, and shoes from their collections. Curator Sylvie Lécailler juxtaposes these patent documents with a few actual pieces and fashion spreads from the era. While it’s not the most glamorous peek back at fashion’s past, the show certainly reminds us that imitations are not to be accepted—not then, not now, not ever.
1931 Face-Dos-Profil runs from March 28 through July 6 at the Galerie du Crédit Municipal de Paris, 55 rue des Francs-Bourgeois 75004, Paris.
“Sometimes I cheat and give friends some of my favorite pieces from my current collection. Whatever I give, though, is chosen with that person’s taste very much in mind,” says Donatella Versace on what she’ll be giving this Christmas. Versace, along with a host of other designers and actors, told WWD what they will be giving, what’s on their wish list, what they will be eating, and more. [WWD]
Stylist Marina Mñnoz is hitting the Park City slopes this holiday season and she suggested a few pieces that will keep you warm and chic. What to wear: Moncler’s retro parkas, Celine loafers, Jil Sander’s ski-luxe sweaters, and Illesteva reflective glasses. [T]
The first directly owned Vionnet boutique, set to officially open during Milan fashion week in February, “pays tribute to Madeleine Vionnet’s staples—geometric shapes contrasting with soft and more rounded ones and the designer’s masterful use of draping,”WWD reports. Another key feature is the use of brass, which was the key element on the designer’s first perfume bottle, throughout the store. [WWD]
Yesterday, Derek Lam sent a cease-and-desist letter to Ivanka Trump Footwear, claiming that they copied his Ayami wedge sandal. Today, Marc Fisher, the producer of Ivanka Trump Footwear, is saying that is not the case, and the design is too popular to stake a claim to it. [WWD]
With so few pants on the runway and so much leg on view, a tribute to Madeleine Vionnet—the designer who ensured that sexiness need not mean frostbite—is a welcome change from today’s usual eye candy. Madeleine Vionnet, Rizzoli’s latest coffee-table topper, is chockfull of designs replete with sensual draping and subtly suggestive nips and tucks; anything sheer is definitely a trompe l’oeil, but the effect feels supremely fresh. (See more images after the jump.) Famous for introducing the bias cut, Vionnet dressed women like chic goddesses. Fellow designer fans are legion: Karl Lagerfeld, one for whom admiration does not come easily, once declared, “Everybody, whether he likes it or not, is under the influence of Vionnet.” Perhaps even more enamored was Cristobal Balenciaga, who once gushed, “Madame Vionnet is my master.” Continue Reading “Vionnet: First Lady Of Fashion” »