13 posts tagged "Maison Kitsune"
Damir Doma and Japanese label Kolor (designed by Junichi Abe) and are headed to Florence. Today, WWD announced that Doma (left) will head to the Spring 2014 Pitti W fair as its guest womenswear designer, while Kolor will feature at Pitti Uomo as the guest menswear designer. Last season’s visiting talents—Kenzo and Maison Kitsuné—will be hard acts to follow, what with the former’s food-market fashion show and the latter’s retro music spectacular. The Spring 2014 fairs are slotted to run from June 18 to June 21.
Best known for its children’s clothes and underwear, Petit Bateau, one of France’s most beloved brands, has decided to embrace its age by growing up a little—but only a little. To mark 120 years—or, as they say in Petit Bateau’s world, 1,440 months—the house has tapped Maison Kitsuné designers Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki as the new artistic directors of its men’s and women’s lines. Evidence of the shift will been seen in the brand’s Fall ’13 range, which will start hitting stores in early July. Although it’s not their first collection for the brand (they did capsules in 2009 and again this spring), the range does mark Loaëc and Masaya’s first effort as artistic directors.
“Petit Bateau is a house everyone loves, but it was a little flat—I mean, they are known for their underwear,” commented Kuroki. “I wanted to bring in new proportions, volume, and color—inject a little coolness.” For instance, he showed a duffle coat with its bottom half lopped off—a style that the powers that be were, at first, hesitant to approve. “It meant taking a risk, but sometimes there’s no ‘why’ or ‘because.’ It’s just a feeling. Fortunately, they decided to trust me.”
In addition to the cropped duffle, Fall’s lineup includes reworked staples and heritage logos, as well as streetwear-inspired “new classics,” such as slim jeans, sailor-striped parkas, fitted corduroys, and preppy sweaters with grosgrain details. And as Kitsuné lovers know, where there is fashion, there is music: The first Kitsuné x Petit Bateau-curated concert is set to stream online in September.
Maison Kitsuné is a record label as much as it is a fashion brand. So when Gildas Loaëc and Masaya Kuroki brought their show to Pitti, they literally brought the show. They’d never presented their fashion collections live before, but they had plenty of experience putting bands onstage. So at the Palazzo Capponi last night, they just did what they knew best: They put bands onstage. This time, though, they happened to be wearing Maison Kitsuné.
The thing took the form of a classic TV variety hour, Ed Sullivan-style, with shticky emcees (the Tokyo-based duo Verbal and Yoon—left) and musical acts (the Swedish girl group Say Lou Lou, the French electro-pop chanteuse Yelle, the Franz Ferdinand-esque Brit rockers Citizens!). The whole was filmed by fashion’s documentarian of choice, Loïc Prigent. “I grew up watching TV,” Kuroki said backstage after the show. “I didn’t grow up watching YouTube. We wanted to make it a bit slower. You can feel the moment.” (Whatever he did or didn’t grow up with, the Prigent video is soon destined for an online outlet near you.)
In keeping with the midcentury vibe of the format, the clothes, too, had a sixties spin. The girl-groupers wore silvery minidresses and Peter Pan-collared shirts. (A punky touch was added by Verbal and Yoon’s jewelry line, Ambush.) The guys had patch-pocket suits and penny loafers. And Yelle? Well, her shortalls romper and sparrow-tailed twill parka didn’t seem to fit the theme, but no use standing on ceremony about that. This was less a step onto the fashion runway than one toward Kitsuné’s continuing global expansion (next up, their first Tokyo store, opening in February), and one in pursuit of a good time. “It was good fun,” Kuroki said. “It was a pop experience.”
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW of Maison Kitsuné’s Fall ’13 presentation.
The economic news from Italy, Pitti Immagine’s ambassadors admitted at a diplomatic lunch mission today, is not good. But they contend they have every reason to be sanguine. The biannual Pitti trade fairs—menswear Pitti Uomo, womenswear Pitti W, children’s Pitti Bimbi, and the textile fair Pitti Filati—draw a more international crowd season after season; for the 83rd fair, to be held January 8-11 of next year, a full 40 percent of the vendors are international.
The big news so far has been the invited guests: Kenzo, which will present the Fall ’13 menswear collection, and Maison Kitsuné, which will stage its first ever show for women’s pre-collection. At lunch, Kenzo designer Humberto Leon and Carol Lim (left) professed their gratitude for the Pitti invitation, even if accepting it means their hectic international schedules, overseeing Kenzo and Opening Ceremony, became that much more hectic. (Leon estimated that he is now on a plane once every five days, with key stops in Florence, Tokyo, Paris, and L.A.) But in their way, Leon and Lim are shaking up the Pitti orthodoxies: They are, Pitti CEO Raffaello Napoleone said with a gasp, showing during the afternoon instead of the usual evening spot.
Kenzo and Kitsuné both hit a sweet spot a hair below the usual designer price point, which is likely no coincidence. “Smart casual is doing well,” Pitti Chairman Gaetano Marzotto announced in his opening remarks, calling out a bright spot in the market. (And adding, to a mostly tie-less crowd, “Like you are dressed now—you in particular.”) But the main-stage designers won’t be the only ones showing at Pitti. Among the other debuts will be Adidas SLVR, G-Star (which will show its latest collection created in collaboration with industrial designer Marc Newson), the returning Pitti veteran Andrea Pompilio, and the adored Japanese line White Mountaineering.