61 posts tagged "Maison Martin Margiela"
UPDATE: Multiple industry sources have now confirmed to Style.com that Nadège Vanhee will succeed Christophe Lemaire as the creative director of womenswear at Hermès. The house is believed to be sending out an official announcement tomorrow morning.
Let the rumors begin! According to WWD, word on the street is that behind-the-scenes star Nadège Vanhee, who cut her teeth at Delvaux and Maison Martin Margiela, worked under Phoebe Philo as the design director at Céline, and is now the design director at The Row, is Hermès’ top pick to succeed Christophe Lemaire as the head of womenswear. It would be nice to see someone like Vanhee, who has a wealth of experience and an eye for clean, sophisticated luxury, get a mega-gig like the one at Hermès—goodness knows she’s paid her dues. An announcement may be made as early as this week.
When I first heard this rumor, it reminded me of Jil Sander’s choice to hire Rodolfo Paglialunga—a designer who, save a stint as the creative director at Vionnet, earned his stripes working behind the scenes at Prada for 10 years. And then there’s the case of Julie de Libran’s appointment at Sonia Rykiel. Another under-the-radar gem, de Libran designed the pre-collections for Louis Vuitton, but was, of course, not as well known as the brand’s creative director and face, Marc Jacobs. Sometimes it makes sense to have a big name head up a big house. But it’s nice to see that the work of talented, though less famous, industry vets does not go unnoticed.
After a week of larger-than-life couture shows, we noticed our favorite collections shared a central theme: the future. It wasn’t the stereotypical white-glove, sterile futurism you see in movies but rather an embrace of the brand-new and beautiful things we’ve never really seen before. At Dior, Raf Simons combined Marie Antoinette silhouettes with high-tech fabrics and mirrored eyeliner, while Karl Lagerfeld stayed true to form at Chanel and looked forward, forward, forward. It got us thinking about how we can incorporate new ideas into our own wardrobes. For starters, we’re still coveting Tamara Mellon’s genius leather legging-boot hybrid, and new jewelry designer Sophie Bille Brahe’s sculptural take on the pearl earring is at the top of our wish list. Metallic silver also feels particularly fresh; a modular choker or high-shine sunnies could make even a plain white tee look stunning. Shop all of our favorite forward-thinking pieces by Maison Martin Margiela, Alexander Wang, and more, below.
1. Tamara Mellon Sweet Revenge leather legging boots, $1,995, available at net-a-porter.com
2. Sophie Bille Brahe 14-karat gold ellipse earring with freshwater pearl, $800, available at stylebop.com
3. Alexander Wang zip peel away pullover, $595, available at shopbop.com
4. Maison Martin Margiela silver-tone choker, $995, available at net-a-porter.com
5. Dior So Real metal and plastic sunglasses in Palladium, $505, available at saksfifthavenue.com
It’s a funny thing, the connection between protection and clothing. On the most basic level, jackets, trousers, glasses, hats, et al. defend us from the elements. But sometimes, it’s the most superfluous accouterment that can make us feel invincible. Such is the case, to some extent, with V. Stiviano, the mistress of disgraced racist Clippers owner Donald Sterling, and her iridescent visors. No doubt you’ve seen photographs of her donning the accessory out and about in L.A. following the scandal in which Sterling forbade her from publicizing her friendships with black people. In a recent interview with Barbara Walters, Stiviano conceded that the full-face visors, which she owns in a myriad of hues, make it “easier to mask the pain.” Fair enough. And it’s not as though she’s the first visible public figure to hide behind headgear—you’d be hard-pressed to find a celebrity, mid-scandal or not, who hasn’t shielded themselves from prying eyes via giant sunglasses, wide-brimmed hats, hooded sweatshirts, or the like. But visage-enveloping visors are indeed an extreme—second only, perhaps, to the deeply bizarre black mask Leonardo DiCaprio sported at last year’s Venice Biennale. (Nothing says “under-the-radar” like channeling Darth Vader.)
“In the past, wearing things like visors or veils was more out of modesty, or maybe a sense of propriety,” explained The Museum at FIT’s associate curator of accessories, Colleen Hill. She cites the large-brimmed “poke” bonnets of the 1830s as an example. “In my opinion, they were an item of propriety. Not only did they shield the woman’s face from the sun, but they also provided a sense of security,” she told Style.com. “Today, [something like a visor], for celebrities in particular, acts as a psychological veil. Even if it’s something that’s transparent, it does create that little bit of a barrier. Making eye contact is such a personal thing, I think that is part of [face coverings'] appeal.”
Thanks to her shield, Stiviano has essentially been hiding from swarms of paparazzi in plain sight. But what’s funny is that while she’s sporting these visors as an invisibility cloak of sorts, they only make her more conspicuous. To wit, she’s more infamous now than before she broke out the accessory. And apparently, her Daft Punkian method of pseudo-protection has ignited somewhat of a visor boom. “We sold out this morning, and we’re waiting on a new shipment,” offered Gingie McLeod, the founder of Tribeca’s SaintChic store and label, which produces and carries Stiviano’s new staple, aptly dubbed the Paparazzi Visor. “They’re actually designed for tennis and hiking—for function. But people have been calling nonstop asking if this is the V. Stiviano visor and if it will cover their whole face or if anyone will be able to see them.” Before the craze began, McLeod had sold only four of the accessories.
Surely, Stiviano wasn’t aiming to start a trend with her quasi-disguise (or heck, maybe she was, though I seriously considered shelving my Chanel 2.55 after seeing a photo of her carrying a similar style). And certainly, part of this newfound visor obsession is in jest. (McLeod told us she just got a call from someone throwing a Stiviano-themed party.) But in truth, this perplexing “don’t look at me but do” mode of dressing has deep roots. Investigating visors alone, you might look back to Pierre Cardin or Paco Rabanne’s futuristic plastic shields from the 1960s, featured in numerous fashion shoots. More recently, there was Nicolas Ghesquière for Balenciaga’s giant Spring ’12 visor (inspired by an archival 1967 Balenciaga wedding hat), which completely covered the face and eyes. However, those who wore it, like Anna Dello Russo, attracted hoards of street-style paps. Same goes for Alexander McQueen’s mammoth Fall ’12 shades. Maison Martin Margiela’s couture masks should also be considered here: On the runway, they create a sense of uniform anonymity, yet on the street, they allow one to hide in style. But do MMM mask fans like Lady Gaga or Kanye West really want us to look away from their haute veils? Unlikely, particularly since West often wears his onstage. More than a striking visual, it has been interpreted as his commentary on fame, and it seems apt for someone who is both more open and uncensored than most celebrities and yet also a man of mystery.
Perhaps the trend is a sign of the times—not unlike our social media avatars, these outré shields afford us the opportunity to put ourselves out there without any risk of full-frontal exposure. They’re a superficial cushion—a buffer between the wearer and the outside world. Or maybe they’re just an ever-so-slightly less obvious plea for attention than the selfie. If that’s the case, let’s hope for a total transition—I’d rather look at an off-the-wall mask than an ill-angled iPhone snap any day.
It’s finally happened: VFiles revealed today that it snagged the first-ever on-screen interview with the elusive visionary that is Martin Margiela, who’s been essentially off the radar since leaving his eponymous maison in 2009. Get ready for your brain to explode, and watch the clip here. This might be the best April Fool’s prank anyone’s pulled all day.
Maison Martin Margiela has always been a secretive house. Its labels are nothing more than white stitches; its namesake designer, who left the house in 2009, has been photographed only about twice; and its current creative team is completely anonymous. Now the ever-provocative clothier is joining forces with Berlin-based minimalist eyewear brand Mykita for a special capsule collection, which will be unveiled tomorrow at Mykita’s Soho flagship. “The conversations with Maison Martin Margiela began in June 2012,” recalled Mykita CEO and creative director Moritz Krueger. “For us, a collaboration is like an exothermic reaction, where we are mixing the DNA of two companies as ingredients together in a test glass: The result is a truly new matter.”
Krueger was shy to reveal the details of their collaborative process (no Margiela inner workings coming out here). He would talk about the results: two design groups—the Essential, which Krueger described as “historical eyeglass forms translated into the contemporary context,” and the DUAL, the more deconstructed of the two. “The glasses are not designed for any one person in mind,” explained Krueger of the shades, which, priced at $550, debut exclusively here. “None of the Maison’s or Mykita’s creations have that purpose. The Mykita x Maison Martin Margiela collection boasts a whole range of glasses, from ultralight metallic structures to thicker, cat-eye or round acetate frames.” Available at Mykita and MMM stores beginning April 17, these shades will definitely help you achieve some of that Margiela mystique.