51 posts tagged "Maison Martin Margiela"
The rumor mill is churning again today, with a choice bit of unconfirmed gossip: Wags are wondering if London designer Marios Schwab isn’t lending a hand to the famously anonymous Maison Martin Margiela. Margiela himself exited the company in 2009, and ever since there have been rumors and reports of other designers—most recently former Céline hand Ivana Omazic—guiding the design team. The Margiela team’s only comment was that it does not communicate on who its designers are, and, in the words of WWD, “characterizing its studio as a creative collective with members of long standing that it feeds regularly with new contributors.”
While the impetus to unmask single design geniuses is an understandable one, it may be a model that’s falling out of date. It begs the question: Should we always have one designer to point to, or is a more team-spirited approach the better way? Certainly Margiela has been on an upswing these last few seasons.
The Maison is not alone in adopting, happily, a revolving door mentality. When Christopher Kane left Versus, Donatella Versace opted not to hire a single designer in his place, but to invite a series of guests to try their hands. (First up, J.W. Anderson; second, M.I.A.) And in a recent editorial on the fate of Jil Sander after the departure (again) of Jil Sander, Cathy Horyn wondered aloud if the best practice wouldn’t be to build a strong design team. It’s not hard to imagine that being refreshed with new talent as talent arrives.
Something to think about, as several large houses—from Louis Vuitton to Sander—go, for the moment, without single stewards.
Ming Xi has been a top catwalker for several years now, but this season, the major Chinese model reversed roles and sat in the front row at several Paris shows, including Kenzo and Maison Martin Margiela, as a guest buyer and consultant for Hong Kong boutique I.T. Like Tommy Ton and his ilk, who often snap her the streets, the renowned Asian retailer can’t get enough of her eclectic personal style, and trusted her discerning eye. Here, Xi shares some exclusive snapshots from her front-row view and subsequent visits to the designers’ showrooms (where she doubled as her own fit model) exclusively with Style.com. She also called out some of her favorite pieces (with a little translation help from her agent at The Society). “I thoroughly enjoyed the experience because I just love the industry as a whole and hope that people will be positively influenced by my viewpoints, choices, and style,” Xi told us. Have a look at Paris fashion week through Ming Xi’s eyes, below.
A group shot of models on a pedestal at Kenzo.
“The appearance of ukiyo-e prints on the coat and the capri pants gives the look a wonderful nomadic sensibility.” Continue Reading “Model Ming Xi Adds Buyer to Her Résumé” »
Just in case you haven’t gotten your fill of Lady Gaga’s paint-smeared face, it’s back in the video for “Applause,” the first single to (officially) drop from the singer’s forthcoming album, Artpop. Fittingly, for the woman devoted to living her life as a live-action editorial shoot, the video was directed by fashion photographers Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin, who also shot Artpop‘s cover and Gaga’s four September V covers. “For me, it was one of the most memorable experiences that we’ve ever had,” Gaga’s stylist, Brandon Maxwell, told Style.com when asked about working with the photographers. Of course, the clothes—like an archival John Galliano gown accessorized with duct tape and safety-pin baubles by Mathieu Mirano, and Valentino Couture lingerie paired with Alaïa boots—added to the excitement.
“The concept was really, What would you do for the applause?” explained Maxwell. Donning a custom Gareth Pugh pillow gown (which explodes around a black catsuit by Mila Schön) and a Maison Martin Margiela Couture jacket (Gaga wears it atop a mirror-and-pin costume conceived by her sister, Natali Germanotta) seems a good place to start. However, Maxwell stressed that some of Gaga’s most memorable looks boast a DIY touch. “Nobody loves clothes and couture more than Gaga, but I think some of her most famous costumes are things that she made with her own two hands,” asserted the stylist. “So there are parts of the video that are incredible for fashion people—like, I was basically crying during that whole Galliano scene. But she has a huge fan base, and I like to choose pieces—whether they’re off the runway or made by us—that some of these kids can make at home.” This time around, those items included seashell pasties; a floating bikini bottom that Gaga’s in-house Renaissance man, Perry Meek, assembled from fresh flowers, glue, and string; and a surreal top by Jean-Charles de Castelbajac shaped to look as though two gloved hands are grasping Gaga’s breasts. The pop star also wears assemblage-style wings—fashioned from broken umbrella spokes—by L.A.-based Junker Designs. Continue Reading ““Applause,” Please: Brandon Maxwell Talks Styling Lady Gaga’s Latest Video” »