61 posts tagged "Maison Martin Margiela"
The foursome behind the new label Vetements, which means “clothes” in French, first met at Maison Martin Margiela. After a time, they all dispersed, but the backstory goes a long way toward explaining why, now that they’ve formed a collective, not one wishes to be identified by name. What we can say, however, is that it’s an international crowd with cred—they’re Austrian, Belgian, Ex-Soviet Union, and French, and they’ve done time at Balenciaga and Céline.
Regrouping has been “kind of like a high school reunion,” one of the designers said the other day. “But what we really want to do is just make clothes that are timeless, personal, and nice to have. It’s more a collection of ideas.”
The kind of woman Vetements is talking to is urban, but she’s into pushing it with not-too-basic wares such as vintage 501s reworked as a skirt with uneven, raw hems; boxy jackets in heavy biker leather; and conceptual pieces like garment bag shearling coats and sleeveless vests (these come with a separate set of sleeves). “Brutalist” basics cover a lot of ground, from T-shirts and sweaters to trenchcoats. These are offered in seasonal colors of charcoal, navy, taupe, bordeaux, and black, and the range is brightened by the occasional flash of aluminum nylon. Judging by the retailer response (and the clothes, of course), this wearable compilation of ideas is full of good ones—Opening Ceremony, Joyce Hong Kong, and Maxfield in L.A. have already picked up the brand’s debut collection.
“It’s not topical, we’re not talking themes,” the designer noted. “We’re talking pieces that work on their own and play off each other.” We’ll be keeping an eye out for what this mysterious quartet does next.
This year, the January high jewelry presentations were but a prelude to the July Haute Couture season, which itself will be just a preview of what’s to come at the year’s biggest jewelry event: Paris’ twenty-seventh Biennale des Antiquaires in September. But even though most houses just offered a shimmering taste, indie brands and established houses alike gave us lots to lust for. Here, a roundup of the season’s most compelling gems.
Aurélie Bidermann: Aurélie Bidermann’s quintessentially boho-chic personal style reflects the various places she’s lived since childhood—Paris, London, New York, and especially South America, with a nod to India for good measure. This multicolored sapphire and gold cuff with a tsavorite scarab detail headlines her debut foray into precious pieces. The designer’s much-anticipated collection spans colorful critter-shaped charms, a heavy elephant pendant, woven gold bracelets with diamond-lined edges, bangles that jingle, and medieval-inspired rings. We’re looking forward to seeing what fine-jewelry jungle the designer comes up with next.
Boucheron: Believe it or not, it’s been a decade since Boucheron first launched its covetable Quatre rings. Now, offspring include an all-diamond variation and cuff bracelets. The Radiant iteration comes in gold with a row of diamonds, and sober, all-gold Monochromes were on offer for those with subtler tastes. Other options include summery renditions with white ceramic “clous” (so named after the calibrated square cobblestones of the Place Vendôme). Mix-and-match stackables and solitaires round out the story.
Bulgari:In the months since Carla Bruni-Sarkozy debuted the original “summer” Diva necklace—she sported 108 carats of fancy-cut emeralds—Bulgari has been crafting a one-of-a-kind Diva for every season. The autumnal variation comes in 116 carats of moghul-cut rubellites, plus diamonds, amethysts, and mandarin garnets, while the winter version’s leaves are frosted over entirely with more than 40 carats of diamonds. Spring is still in the workshop, but it is set to be green, with mint tourmalines and peridots offset by amethysts and diamonds. Meanwhile, graphic, seventies-inflected pieces in diamonds and onyx join the Intarsio line.
Chanel: Gabrielle Chanel loved pearls—real, faux, by day, by night, for sport, you name it. But there is nothing faux, or workout-appropriate, in the brand’s latest high jewelry collection. About three-quarters of the eighty-seven pieces in Perles de Chanel—the first collection in eight years to focus on the house staple—was on display in the Chanel salon this week. And the decadent wares hit all the high notes in the Chanel lexicon: ribbons, lions, camellias, and Coromandel swallows, with pearls ranging from seed-size to gumball (mostly the latter). The colorful one-off necklace strung with five sizable Australian baroque pearls and seven varieties of precious and semiprecious stones is just one of many showstoppers.
Dauphin: Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld, who chose her maiden name to headline her maison, makes her first foray into high jewelry this season, and her debut collection is nothing if not impressive. With a little help from friends like Paolo Roversi and Saskia de Brauw, the designer showcased a short line of “strong but light” pieces inspired by architecture—her gold and diamond rings and earrings could be the blueprints of the Eiffel Tower. Another cuff and matching necklace are an exercise in bone structure. Continue Reading “At Paris’ Haute Joaillerie Outings, a Twinkling Taste of What’s to Come” »
We first saw signs up geared-up girls during the Spring ready-to-wear collections, when Alexander McQueen‘s Sarah Burton presented warrior women donning arm-length gilded cuffs. This embrace of aggressive arm accessories re-emerged at the Spring Couture shows, where Chanel and Maison Martin Margiela proposed accouterments that exuded a “don’t mess with me” attitude. Karl’s girls complemented their trainers (and fanny packs) with elbow- (and knee-) pads at Chanel. And Margiela toughened up a pair of striped trousers with beaded temporary-tattoo sleeves. It may be abrasive (and potentially uncomfortable), but we’re welcoming this rebellious Couture trend with open arms.