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April 21 2014

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2 posts tagged "Malo"

Alessandro Dell’Acqua Looks to the Future

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Alessandro Dell'Acqua

Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.

Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”

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Barneys’ Boys’ Club

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Henrik and MarkBarneys bowed its newly renovated men’s shop last night on the sixth floor of its Madison Avenue flagship. Housing a selection of European designers—Ermenegildo Zegna, Malo, Andrea Campagna, and the like—and the made-to-measure department, the bright new floor is truly a far cry from what it was just a few months ago. “My favorite part is the new made-to-measure section,” explained CEO Mark Lee. “We deliberately put it straight in the middle, but at the same time it’s very private.” Fashion director Tomoko Oguro agreed, adding, “And it’s still all about the clothes and the beautiful edit by our men’s team.”

The New York Rangers’ Henrik Lundqvist hosted the soiree and told Style.com that he enjoys shopping on six because it has easy access to the women’s area, which will make for convenient conjugal shopping trips with Mrs. Lundqvist. The bespoke lounge is also a great place to unwind with his teammates, he explained, because if there is one thing a well-dressed athlete loves, it’s a custom suit. “It’s the final two weeks of summer break before training starts up, so usually I would let the guys do their own thing, but for tonight I did convince five or six to come out and shop,” said the sports star. And with 10 percent of last night’s sales going to UNICEF, purchasing a custom suit was a perfectly acceptable pre-season indulgence.

Photo:Leandro Justen/BFANYC.com