3 posts tagged "Man Ray"
Opening with the click, click, click of a Bentley’s blinking hazard lights, Bibhu Mohapatra’s latest short film is simultaneously luxurious and broodily tense. Debuting exclusively here, the short stars Canadian model Dani Seitz as she wanders—decked in the designer’s Fall ’13 furs and chiffons—around the Hudson River Valley’s Plumb-Bronson House, which once served as a correctional facility for wayward women.
“The place has such a long history. There’s no telling how many individual stories must have passed through those fields, those walls,” Mohapatra told Style.com. “Ella Fitzgerald reportedly spent time there. It stirred me.”
In the clip, Mohapatra also pays homage to the artist Man Ray, who, incidentally, inspired the “darkness” and “moodiness” on the designer’s Fall catwalk. “The spiritual element of the grounds gave way to incorporating Man Ray’s techniques, such as with his photograms and solarizing methods.”
The flick marks just one highlight of Mohapatra’s banner 2013, as his four-year-old label continues to grow. So far, he’s sourced new funding, inked an exclusive deal with China’s biggest luxury retailer, Lane Crawford, and hired a company president. Mohapatra also gave us a sneak peek at Spring ’14, which takes aesthetic cues from former New York City Ballet soloist Wendy Whelan, artist Olafur Eliasson, and a certain ominous flower barred from use in Hindu religious practices. “There’s always a little bit of a twisted darkness,” Mohapatra said, smiling.
Farida Khelfa, the newly installed ambassador at the house of Schiaparelli, held 58 appointments at the company’s freshly renovated Place Vendôme atelier yesterday. There’s no new designer at the brand that Schiap built—Diego Della Valle of Tod’s is reportedly taking meetings with candidates and an announcement is expected to be made in September—but there’s plenty of curiosity around the label’s rebirth. “All the great couturiers know about Schiap,” Khelfa said. “Jean Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Azzedine Alaïa, they’ve all come to see the place.”
In fact, Alaïa was still lounging in the atelier’s white salon (pictured) when this reporter arrived, sharing a story about a letter given to him by one of Schiap’s former lovers. Alaïa, who was friends with Schiaparelli, was supposed to deliver it to her, but he never did out of shyness and fear. Asked if he still has the letter, nearly 40 years after her death, he nodded yes. It would make a smart addition to the refurbished space, which already includes Giacometti pieces found in the Schiaparelli archives, eyeglasses by Man Ray, and a Dalí sculpture, as well as furniture designed by Vincent Darré.
Come the Couture shows next January, the brand will show its first new collection here. For now, though, the hunt is still on for a designer. “Schiaparelli was not about good taste, she was about having an opinion,” Khelfa said. “It doesn’t have to be jolie, it has be strong. It has to be forte.”
With Impossible Conversations, the Schiaparelli/Prada Costume Institute exhibit fast approaching, perhaps it’s no surprise that surrealism has again found its way into fashion’s collective (un)conscious. Elsa Schiaparelli famously collaborated with the likes of Salvador Dalí, and Miuccia Prada has done more for the cause of surreal style than anyone since. And there were more than a few designs on the Fall runways that echoed the theme.
At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz and Elie Top nodded at artists like Man Ray and Joan Miró with playful costume jewelry such as crystal eye brooches and a chain belt with plastic lips. Diane von Furstenberg referenced the movement, too, with interlocking hands on a body-hugging dress. Some designs, like Mary Katrantzou‘s digitally printed labyrinth gown, made the surreal wearable, and some, like Stephen Jones’ spiny headpieces for Giles (left), seemed destined to stay on the runway—or perhaps, one day, the museum gallery.
CLICK FOR A SLIDESHOW, and let us know if you’ll be keeping it surreal this season.