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July 28 2014

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10 posts tagged "MAN"

EXCLUSIVE: MAN Announces Its Spring ’15 Lineup

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MANBelieve it or not, it’s already time to start thinking about the Spring ’15 collections. The menswear shows kick off in London on June 15, and this season, Topman and Fashion East’s MAN initiative will continue its support of up-and-coming talents by offering three emerging designers the chance to send their collections down the runway. For Spring ’15, MAN alum Bobby Abley (left), whose quirky, quintessentially British looks have been worn by M.I.A, A$AP Rocky, and Azealia Banks, will be joined by two fresh faces: Nicomede Talavera and Liam Hodges. The former is a Central Saint Martins grad who’s already amassed an impressive group of stockists since his Fall ’14 debut at Fashion East. The latter, another Fashion East alum, aims to explore a new, democratic breed of luxury, and counts Drake among his fans. “MAN really does continue to nurture new talent,” Topman’s Gordon Richardson told Style.com. “With 26 designers graduating to date, it continues to provide the future of menswear with the aspiring young talent that may prosper and grow into the big stars of the future.” Considering that the likes of J.W. Anderson, Craig Green, Agi & Sam, and Astrid Andersen all got their menswear starts on the MAN stage, we look forward to seeing what Spring’s promising trio turns out during the show on June 15.

Photo: IndigitalImages.com

The Split-Second Preview: Bobby Abley

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The Fall ’14 menswear collections kick off in London on Monday, and will be followed by the shows at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, in Milan, and in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

Bobby Abley

WHO: Bobby Abley, who will be showing with the MAN initiative

WHERE: London

WHEN: Monday, January 6

WHAT: “Mickey Mouse trapped in a haunted house. A dark palette mixed with animated gore and glow-in-the-dark details. My Fall man is cartoon chic. “—Bobby Abley. The designer sent us a detail shot of one of his Fall ’14 looks, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Bobby Abley

The Split-Second Preview: Craig Green

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The Fall ’14 menswear collections kick off in London on Monday, and will be followed by the shows at Florence’s Pitti Uomo, in Milan, and in Paris. Before the new clothes hit the runway, we’ve asked some of the most anticipated names to offer a sneak peek. Per usual, it’s a busy time for all—designers and fashion followers alike—so we’re continuing our split-second previews: tweet-length previews at 140 characters or less. Our entire collection of Fall ’14 previews is available here.

Craig Green

WHO: Craig Green, who will be showing with the MAN initiative

WHERE: London

WHEN: Monday, January 6

WHAT: “Ideas of tradition, obsession, and romance.”—Craig Green. The designer sent us a peek at his Fall ’14 dyes, above.

Photo: Courtesy of Craig Green

Looking to London: Menswear Designers to Watch

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London’s second men’s week is upon us (our coverage begins when the shows do, on January 7), and while the Brits are buzzing about Tom Ford’s and Alexander McQueen’s shows (both designers are new additions to the schedule), it is London’s ever-growing crop of young talent that makes the city tick. We checked in with some of the city’s most intriguing new menswear designers about what they have in store for the Fall ’13 season. And our picks have lofty aspirations. The general consensus was that each talent, in his own way, hopes his designs will contribute to a London menswear evolution—aesthetically, conceptually, and otherwise. “It’s the right time in fashion to take risks,” says spotlighted designer Craig Green. All four emerging talents are doing just that. Below, they tell us how.


Craig Green

Since launching his line with Fashion East last season, 26-year-old Central Saint Martins MA graduate Craig Green has struck an impressive balance between conceptual and wearable design. “Even with my sculptural pieces [like the wood and canvas frames he showed at the Saint Martins show last February], I place an importance on masculinity—although, I sometimes play with it in an androgynous way,” explains Green. Last season, the designer put forth a covetable and approachable collection that included screen-printed calico separates and rubber-dipped sweaters (left). For Fall ’13, Green earned a spot showing with the prestigious MAN initiative. “My inspiration is all about shadows and reflections, which is something I’ve played with a lot since the MA,” says Green. Featuring crinkle pleating and a toile-like simplicity, the cotton, felt, and suede wares include hand-painted prints and build on the ease of last season’s clothes. However, Green’s high-concept edge will come through in his presentation via a few dramatic, sculpted looks. “I think a show should be a show!” says Green of his penchant for grand fashion-week displays. (For his debut last season, he showed his collection alongside a full-on art installation.) “That’s what makes fashion so exciting.”

Craig Green is available in several specialty stores in Japan, including Kink and Cement, and will feature in the MAN show on January 7.



Joseph Turvey

With an MA from the London College of Fashion, 24-year-old Joseph Turvey will show his second collection (his third, if you count his Grey Gardens-inspired graduate line) during Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East Installations. With a focus on illustration (last season’s looks were printed with sketches of men wearing vibrant trompe l’oeil floral outfits), Turvey’s mesh and heavy lace Fall wares are inspired by his new jet-black cockapoo. (“She’s like a little teddy bear,” he coos.) Crafted in a muted, primarily black palette, Turvey’s collection (which, like last season, will feature illustration) aims to smash through the traditional menswear mold. “I find that menswear has a lot of rules, as far as tailoring, and I want to take what I’ve learned from [those rules] and break them,” he explains. As for the dog inspiration, Turvey asserts that Givenchy’s Rottweilers were not at the forefront of his mind. “These clothes are much softer and more friendly,” he says, adding that “fun” is a key element of his aesthetic. “I just want people to be happy when they see my work.”

Joseph Turvey is available in Japan at Candy and online at www.theunconventional.co.uk. He will show his menswear collection during the Fashion East Installations on January 7.


Matthew Miller

Thirty-one-year-old Matthew Miller will show his fifth collection in London this January. The NEWGEN-sponsored designer focuses on clean tailoring and complex digital prints (the fractured patterns seen on his smart suits and separates in seasons past have stemmed from such inspirations as things he found on the street and London’s Bauhaus council flats). “Everything I do has to have a meaning—every stitch and every line. Otherwise, it’s pointless,” says Miller. For Fall ’13, the designer was influenced by digitalism and his belief that his generation has failed to produce any revolutionary music or art. “I think they’re endangered species, really,” he explains. This notion prompted him to use crocodile-stamped leathers that reference an endangered breed of the reptile. Miller’s Fall ’13 will also feature black wool twill, cotton poplin, and high-tech polypropylene raincoats. “Everything is really simple,” says Miller. “I think I’ve come up with something relatable, that still questions what people believe and what people want to wear.”

Matthew Miller is available at www.mrporter.com and will show on Wednesday, January 9.


Maarten van der Horst

Thirty-year-old Central Saint Martins MA graduate Maarten van der Horst is best known for his three-season-old womenswear line full of vibrant prints, playful, feminine details, and slick silhouettes. But last season the Dutch designer decided to team up with Fashion East and test the waters in the menswear department with some heavy-metal-inspired T-shirts (think: Iron Maiden, Metallica, and Slayer). For Fall, van der Horst will continue with his metal menswear, this time concentrating on scarves. “I’m drawn to heavy-metal bands not because I like the music but because of their extreme cult followings. Achieving that kind of status is a goal for a young designer,” says van der Horst of his muses. The designer asserts that he’s exploring more facets of men’s ready-to-wear in his Fall range. But as for the scarf focus, he explains, “Every season I try to develop a specific concept. So if I have a really exciting idea for scarves, why not focus on that? I want to make objects of desire.”

Maarten van der Horst will show his menswear collection during the Fashion East Installations on January 7.

Photos: Craig Green—Courtesy of Craig Green, Joseph Turvey—Hayley Benoit, Matthew Miller—Courtesy of catwalking.com, Maarten van der Horst—Devin Blair

Arrrgh, Real Monsters!

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Next February, ARRRGH! Monstres de Mode, an exhibition presented by Greek collective Atopos CVC that highlights designers who distort and mask the human form with their fantastically frightening, sometimes grotesque garments, will land in Paris. Having debuted in Athens last year, the Vassilis Zidianakis-curated show is an extension of the book, Not a Toy, Fashioning Radical Characters, and highlights such shocking shape-shifters as Alexander McQueen, Gareth Pugh, Maison Martin Margiela, Charlie Le Mindu, and Walter van Beirendonck, as well as lesser-known young talents like Alex Mattsson and Leutton Postle. Emerging British menswear designer, Craig Green—who’s set to show his second collection in London next month with the MAN initiative—was tapped to create the identity of the exhibition. Green brought Atopos’ definition of monsters—described as “everything strange”—to life with four green and yellow figures that vaguely recall Pac-Man. “I wanted to make something that resembled a lo-fi graphic,” explained Green. The designer, who’s begun to make a name for himself with his art-meets-fashion concoctions, crafted his curious critters from wooden frames and stretched canvas. “They’re meant to be a family,” says Green. “So they fit together like male and female forms; they’re couples in love,” he explains.

Twenty-six-year-old Green, a Central Saint Martins graduate, has pieces from his 2012 M.A. collection, as well as a sculptural garment from his upcoming Fall 2013 collection, in the show. “I feel very fortunate to be featured alongside these mega designers, as well as small ones that I greatly respect.”

ARRRGH! Monstres de Monde opens on February 13 at La Gaîté Lyrique, located at 3bis, Rue Papin in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement.

Photo: Daniel Daniel Lillie and Panos Kokkinias