36 posts tagged "Manolo Blahnik"
“Everyone involved in this was my A-list first choice,” Bronwyn Cosgrave declared of the panel of judges she assembled to select the five short-listed semifinalists for the first Dorchester Collection Fashion Prize at London’s Dorchester Hotel. That sentiment, one hopes, extends to said semifinalists, too. But Cosgrave could be forgiven for a little enthusiasm for the judging side of the table: It included Daphne Guinness, Manolo Blahnik, Giles Deacon, milliner Stephen Jones, Yasmin LeBon, Vanity Fair‘s Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, and ES fashion director Gianluca Longo. Despite the varied group, “it was a remarkably smooth decision process,” Blahnik said. “We saw the number of applications and hung our heads. But it turns out that we were largely unified despite our different personal aesthetics.” His co-panelist Guinness (pictured above with her fellow jurors) agreed heartily. “I take refuge in the arts,” she said. “It was wonderful to have us all agree so easily, so that I could realize that I am not crazy and my values are shared.”
The semifinalists are the English knitwear designer Louise Goldin; the Greek-born, London-based Mary Katrantzou; Hermione de Paula, who created a surprisingly dainty collection called “I Heart Elizabeth Berkley”; the sculptural footwear designer Chau Har Lee; and Thomas Tait, from Canada. The unifying factor—maybe the only one—is a commitment to craftsmanship and a preference for the conceptual (even, occasionally, at the expense of commercial viability).
But Guinness, for one, was all in favor. “Craftmanship needs to return,” she declared. “I am always overjoyed to see students who love to stitch their own seams. We need better things, not more. We should not pollute the world with meaningless, unused things when we can make and support things of rare and precious beauty.” As the only international fashion prize set to roam to a different fashion capital each year—at the site, not by coincidence, of a Dorchester Collection hotel; next year’s will be in New York—the award should do just that. The winner, to be announced in November, takes home a £25,000 prize and a free event at any of the Dorchester Collection’s properties.
The Decadestwo pop-up at Soho’s Kiki de Montparnasse is quickly becoming a New York tradition among bargain hunters in the high-stakes game of keeping up appearances. For the past several seasons, Christos Garkinos has packed up more new-with-tags Chanel purses than one man should rightfully possess and installed them—along with a trove of designer consignment ready-to-wear and shoes, much of it donated by his celebrity clients at his home base in L.A.—in the second-floor space of the Soho erotica emporium. (Don’t call it a sex shop, please.) The getting’s as good as ever at the current sale, which opens its doors to the public tomorrow, and strikes an elegiac note: This time around, there’s a special emphasis on pieces by the late Alexander McQueen. Selections include a tiered gown from McQueen’s final collection, a lurid kimono once worn by Janet Jackson, and this diamond-patterned beauty from McQueen’s Spring ’09 collection. Though it’s priced at a fraction of retail cost—$890—it still may be steep for some. They can wait until the sale’s final day, when a collection of Louboutins and Manolos hit the floor for a mere $150.
Decadestwo pop-up shop runs Thursday, March 18, through Sunday, March 21, at Kiki de Montparnasse, 79 Greene St., NYC, www.kikidemontparnasse.com.
Brian Reyes has paired his polished runway looks with Manolo Blahnik for the past few seasons, but perhaps it was the new decade that sparked a change of heart. For Fall, Reyes is introducing some new blood into his heels, as it were, working with the English designer Georgina Goodman on limited-edition handmade shoes to accessorize his Fall 2010 collection. Slated to debut on Reyes’ runway for New York fashion week on February 17, the three styles will be produced as part of Goodman’s Handmade in Mayfair range.
“The collection revolves around the idea of trees, and we got to choose the wood for the platforms. It was amazing that making that change allowed us to see the whole process in-house,” Reyes marveled. “But we wanted to keep Georgina’s DNA in there.” That DNA manifests itself in sensible, real-world-friendly designs—eventually. According to Goodman, the catwalk looks pictured above focus on a silhouette (translated into runway-speak, that means ultra-high heels), but the ones created for the commercial collection will be a little more manageable. Or as Reyes explains of the more comfortable platforms, “Easier to chase after the taxis in!”
The Georgina Goodman for Brian Reyes Handmade in Mayfair collection will be available at Georgina Goodman’s London boutique, 44 Old Bond St., after February 17. Prices start at £500, or approximately $807.
When Los Angeles-based designer John Murrough launched Illia back in 1997, he quickly developed a faithful following for his lovingly worn-in leather jackets and their distressed, washed, and crinkled look. But in 2003, both designer and label took a break. This season, the South African native, whose résumé includes working closely with Manolo Blahnik in London, is back with a fall collection, created with fellow designer Robbie Moray, that has expanded to a full sportswear line. We’re loving the asymmetrical zipper details, whisper-thin knit tops, perforated leather skirts, and suede leggings. And, of course, there is an excellent assortment of covetable leather jackets in various incarnations—motorcycle, fringed, draped—to choose from. Illia is available for fall at Barneys, American Rag, Scoop, and www.shopbop.com.