37 posts tagged "Marc by Marc Jacobs"
A new figure will soon be charged with the future of Philosophy’s dreamy sensibilities. Creative director Natalie Ratabesi has parted ways with the house in the wake of increasingly poor sales, WWD reported this morning. Alberta Ferretti passed the reins of Philosophy to Ratabesi (a vet of Dior, Gucci, and Oscar de la Renta) in October 2012. The brand’s Spring 2015 offering will be designed by an in-house team.
Ratabesi’s departure comes on the heels of the enigmatic news from Aeffe SpA CFO and managing director Marcello Tassinari that the company was “taking action” to improve the line’s financial straits. Though the split comes “by common consent,” per an Aeffe SpA rep, some might see the move as a reaction to the also Aeffe-owned Moschino’s recent success under Jeremy Scott. The hires of Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley at Marc by Marc Jacobs makes a similar case for big names to refresh a brand that, as Marc Jacobs International president Robert Duffy admitted at the time, was “getting a little stale.” Only time will tell if a decisive appointment at Philosophy will translate into a similar renaissance.
“Oh, you’re a model. Who’s your agency? Instagram?” Easy as it may be to pimp oneself out on the platform, the general consensus here at Style.com is that selfie-snapping should be kept to a minimum. The Internet is not your portfolio and iPhone pics are not your headshots. Marc Jacobs, however, has decided to add fuel to the photographic frenzy. Marc by Marc Jacobs is taking a page out of Nicola Formichetti’s book and plans to find a fresh face for fall via social media. #CastMeMarc began yesterday and runs through April 9. For rules, info, and a chance to star in the brand’s campaign, visit MarcJacobs.com
We’ve just passed the midway point of fashion month with the Milan shows well under way, and there have been plenty of memorable modeling moments thus far, particularly for newcomers. In general, the top-tier, A-list catwalkers have been more selective with their schedules, leaving room for fresh faces to ascend the ranks. Perhaps the easiest way to break down our favorite rookies is by hair color. By and large, it’s been the season of the platinum blond, with familiar faces Julia Nobis, Ashleigh Good, Juliana Schurig, Sasha Luss, and Devon Windsor making a strong case for bleached tresses (reminiscent of Khaleesi from Game of Thrones). Several new models have been riding Fall’s peroxide wave, too. First is ethereal Polish beauty Ola Rudnicka, who debuted at Prada’s Spring show and landed a spot in the label’s latest campaign. She’s turned up on just about every major runway in each city so far. Rudnicka kicked things off on a high note in New York, walking Jason Wu, Michael Kors, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. She went on to do Burberry and Christopher Kane in London, and continued to take Milan by storm, bookending No. 21 on Tuesday in addition to walking Max Mara and Moschino yesterday. Another noteworthy newcomer rocking a flaxen mane is Harleth Kuusik (who currently stars in Proenza Schouler’s Spring ads). In New York, she did turns at Rag & Bone, Victoria Beckham, and Proenza Schouler, then followed those up with J.W. Anderson and Erdem in London. We plan to see a lot more of both Rudnicka and Kuusik next week.
Next up is the fiery-tressed group of redheads led by sophomores such as Lera Tribel and Nika Cole (who can forget her teased-out, lamp-shade ’do from Schiaparelli’s Couture show?). They are joined by Quebec native Sophie Touchet, who made an early impact at Thakoon, 3.1 Phillip Lim, MBMJ (a.k.a. Marc by Marc Jacobs), and Burberry Prorsum, then moved on to open Alberta Ferretti and walk in Fendi yesterday. Finally, we’ve got a mixed bag of brunettes, ranging from Dutch stunner Imaan Hammam (she won the genetic lottery with a Moroccan mother and a father from Egypt, and her exotic looks have helped earn her key spots in top-tier casts including Prada, Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, and Fendi) to fierce-looking Ronja Furrer (that strong jawline gave her an edge at Altuzarra, Alexander Wang, Christopher Kane, and more). And how about this season’s most buzzed-about newcomer? Waleska Gorczevski has a hell of a name and a hell of a presence. During NYFW, the Brazilian model was the first girl out at Marc Jacobs. She also opened Yigal Azrouël and bookended Victoria Beckham, and has continued to rack up an impressive show list including Calvin Klein Collection, Hugo Boss, Proenza Schouler, Christopher Kane, and Fendi. No doubt Paris will take to her serene, slightly quirky appeal.
Aside from Fall’s freshman class of catwalkers, we’ve witnessed plenty of noteworthy cameos by old-school veterans, too. For example, Alexander Wang’s finale featured the likes of Angela Lindvall, Bridget Hall, Candice Swanepoel, Caroline Trentini, Anne V., Hilary Rhoda, and Jacquetta Wheeler. Meanwhile, Karen Elson has been going at full throttle this year, and she continued to dazzle at Tom Ford, Donna Karan, and Diane von Furstenberg. On the other hand, we’ve got Karolina Kurkova, who surprised us by opening Cushnie et Ochs and turning up at Christopher Kane (where she was easily the most experienced model in the lineup). Other highlights included: Kirsten Owen opening and closing Mary Katrantzou; Mini Anden at Proenza Schouler; Liberty Ross and Stella Tennant at Tom Ford; and the triple threat of Carolyn Murphy, Frankie Rayder, and Liisa Winkler at Michael Kors. Last but not least was the brilliant cast at Burberry Prorsum, which featured Edie Campbell in addition to her two younger sisters, Olympia and Jean. Mark our words, those Campbell girls are stars in the making. And speaking of stars, you can’t deny that Kendall Jenner was a total natural on the runways at Marc Jacobs and Giles.
Breakfast with my colleague Maya to go over the lineup for the next issue of Style.com/Print, which we put together while simultaneously covering the shows on the site and publish within a month of the close of Paris fashion week, a live-broadcast approach to making a magazine. Then it was off to the Rodarte show. Last season’s collection got slated, though I sort of liked its trashy energy. This one had more of the Mulleavy sisters’ customary handcrafted offbeat charm and should be a hit with their fans. After that it was on to Diesel Black Gold on the West Side, and then a meeting on the East Side with a European luxury house, who filled me in on its plans for a huge event later this spring.
Tons of energy and lots of food for thought at Marc by Marc Jacobs, which has been rechristened by its initials and is now in the hands of the London-based duo of Luella Bartley and Katie Hillier. Something about the scale of the plywood set and the refracted references here made me think I could have been at a show in Paris. There was an intriguing magpie quality to the clothes, as if you were moving through the racks of Dover Street Market from the Japanese designer section to the sophisticated European section to the streetwear section. My favorite grouping was the BMX-inspired looks. The show was a bona fide smash with the audience. It’ll be interesting to see how the aesthetic, a break from the line’s more insouciant past, plays at retail. Delphine Arnault, of the parent group LVMH, was looking on from the front row.
Talking of Dover Street Market, I ran into the new Comme des Garçons-operated, multiretailer space on Lexington Avenue to say hello to Andre Walker. Walker is the first to describe himself as an “elusive” designer, and after a few stops and starts, he’s back with a small line, thanks to the encouragement of DSM’s Adrian Joffe and Rei Kawakubo. You’ll find it on the seventh floor between Junya Watanabe and Prada, an indication of the esteem Kawakubo has for Walker.
Every season, there are a couple of models who break through and start popping up in all the big shows so that you can trace the day’s development through their changing hairstyles and runway attitudes. This season, those models are Binx Walton and Anna Ewers, who in the space of a few hours went from Bolshevik ninja at MBMJ to sleek gallerina at the serenely beautiful Narciso Rodriguez show that closed another day of New York fashion week.
This morning, Marc Jacobs announced that he is changing the name of his popular diffusion line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. “I’ve always hated that name,” Jacobs told British Vogue. Of course, the new name has yet to be unveiled; Jacobs is “superstitious” and apparently wants to wait for the right time. Might that be on February 11 at Katie Hillier and Luella Bartley’s first Marc by Marc Jacobs show? We wouldn’t be surprised. The news coincides with Jacobs’ recent departure from Louis Vuitton to focus on his main line as well as the company’s forthcoming IPO.