5 posts tagged "Marco de Vincenzo"
Roman designer Marco de Vincenzo just got the LVMH bump. Today, WWD revealed that the fashion corporation has struck a deal with the on-the-rise talent and acquired a “significant” minority stake in his signature line. De Vincenzo, who sent his Fall ’14 collection down the runway in Milan yesterday, also has ties to LVMH-owned house Fendi, where he has been working with Silvia Venturini Fendi on the label’s accessories collection since 2000. Reports say that he will continue to consult on the brand.
De Vincenzo is the fourth up-and-comer in whom LVMH has recently invested—Nicholas Kirkwood, J.W. Anderson, and Maxime Simoens being the other three. Furthermore, LVMH will welcome thirty new rising stars to Paris next week for the first leg of its new LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. The company’s latest move further proves its commitment to supporting fashion design’s new guard.
Francesca Versace—yes, of those Versaces—writes in from her jaunts around Milan fashion week.
Milan may be an ancient and tradition-bound city, but like everywhere else, it’s got an eye out for Who’s On Next. That’s just what was being celebrated at a cocktail party at the magnificent Palazzo Morando yesterday, where the sixth winner of the emerging-designer prize was announced.
Last year’s winner, Marco de Vincenzo, told me that even after winning, the path to success is still long. But that shouldn’t dampen the spirits of this year’s winner, Erkan Çoruh (pictured, with Harper’s Bazaar‘s Sophia Neophitou). It’s hard to imagine anything dampening footwear designer Jerome C. Rousseau’s—he smiles at me and tells me about the twin inspirations for his modern, colorful shoes: Keith Haring and Grace Jones.
Elsewhere, I spot the milliner Justin Smith of J Smith Esq, and Zara Gorman, whose Perspex and leather hats are architecturally inspired. And then there’s my friend Mirco Giovannini, whose dress I’m wearing tonight. Everywhere, the up-and-coming are being celebrated. “Viva i young,” the Moschillo family shouts. My aunt Donatella is a bit more pragmatic. “Bravi,” she told me, “but they still have to sweat.” “Let’s see who survives,” Diego Della Valle added gravely.
But tonight is about congratulations, not predictions of doom. Here’s hoping the spotlight on Milanese design will shine again on Milan as the fashion capital of the world. There’s no place like it—no place like home.
Three new names to know: Erkan Coruh, Jerome C. Rousseau, and Claudio Montias. The trio of designers—Coruh for ready-to-wear and Rousseau and Montias for accessories—were just named winners of Vogue Italia‘s annual Who Is On Next awards. The victors were announced at Rome’s AltaRomaAltaModa haute couture week, which just kicked off in the Italian capital.
Coruh’s Spring collection, Radical Beauty, took the top prize. Inspired by the work of Iranian artist Shirin Neshat, it charts, in the Turkish designer’s words, the “dramatic journey from the rigid world of Islam to a vision of feminine beauty.” (In practice, that means everything from head-covering tops paired with mini bustle skirts to a patchwork dress fashioned from raw-edged chamois suede—all made in Italy, one of the contest’s prerequisites. A look from his Fall collection, The Women of Allah, is pictured, left.)
The Canadian footwear designer Jerome C. Rousseau and the Argentine footwear designer Claudio Montias shared the second prize. Rousseau said he was inspired by “glam and disco” for his winning collection; he honed his shoe skills working for Matthew Williamson (who knows a thing or two about both), before launching his own brand in London in 2008. (He now sells to Barneys, Dover Street Market, and Harvey Nichols.)
Winning comes with a plum reward—a slot on September’s show calendar at Milan fashion week and a shoot with one of Vogue Italia‘s star photographers. Last year’s winner, ready-to-wear designer Marco de Vincenzo, says the prize made “all the difference” for his fledgling business. His namesake collection now sells to 26 stores worldwide, and in September, his slinky dresses will be available at Paris’ Colette.
The huge machinery that is the Italian luxury fashion and textile industry is facing a threat on three fronts: its own complacency in not developing homegrown talent, the migration of manufacturing to low-cost countries, and now the economic downturn. In a way, though, though, the horrible realization that there’s a perfect storm brewing might be just what’s needed to compel backers and fashion employers to recognize and hire young designers in order to shore up the future.
After winning this year’s Who Is on Next? competition (an initiative set up by Vogue Italia editor Franca Sozzani), Marco de Vincenzo might be a contender. His debut show in Milan, based on ideas about sportswear and classical Greek draping, looked technically accomplished for a relative beginner. Neoprene strips fused onto stretch tulle in geometric patterns were the main feature of his 35-look collection, a technique he said he’d learned from his day job as a bag designer at Fendi.
But why take the risk of starting his own collection at such a down period? “I’ve been working in this area for nine years, since I graduated from design school,” de Vincenzo explained. “I’ve always had a passion to do ready-to-wear. Last March, I realized I didn’t want to wait any longer.” What’s slowly shifting, he says, is the attitude of factory owners toward independent designers whose orders would once have been turned away on the grounds of being too insignificant with which to bother. Now those companies are actively seeking work to keep themselves busy. Meanwhile, other opportunities are opening up as established design companies look to overhaul their labels by hiring young designers as consultants. De Vincenzo’s progress from here to next season could be worth keeping an eye on.
“This is what I do after 6 p.m.,” says Marco de Vincenzo of the debut haute couture collection he presented in Paris this week—a patchwork of narrow, figure-hugging stripe dresses in a play of soft and stiff coated jersey. De Vincenzo, who will soon be 31, moved to Rome at the age of 18 to attend the European Institute of Design. He joined Fendi’s design team immediately after completing a Fashion and Costume Design degree, and he has been the right hand of Silvia Venturini Fendi, working on the house’s accessories for the past eight years. “I made it all alone in Rome in my room with one dressmaker,” says de Vincenzo of the 20-piece collection he showed at the Espace Commines. His work with Fendi is still ongoing, a job that he says inspires his “passion for material research.” That’s evident in his runway debut: De Vincenzo cut out every narrow jersey stripe himself and sewed them together for a patchwork of matte contrasting with shine, soft playing off stiff that hugs curves and creates a play of light and shadow. “I like to take one fabric and use it two different ways for an optical effect,” he explains. In a Spring season where many designers are trying out longer recession-appropriate lengths, de Vincenzo remains an unapologetic leg man. His sexy, hourglass shapes go from short to microscopic. “I like sexy, but with a concept so that it’s modern,” he says. “I’ve always been inspired by Gianni Versace, but I also like Margiela.”