7 posts tagged "Marco de Vincenzo"
Over the past decade, the Who Is On Next competition has become a champion of Italy’s design strength. Yesterday’s tenth edition of the competition (sponsored by Alta Roma and Vogue Italia with Yoox.com), along with the accompanying exhibition in Rome, was a testament to both its impressive history and its promising future.
The three designers who joined the winner’s circle were Salvatore Piccione, Aliza Shalali Daizy, and Milica Stankovic. Piccione’s ladylike shapes, covered with engineered prints, beading, and embroidery, depict an imaginary garden world of flowers and bumble bees for his Piccione.Piccione collection. “The more detailed things are, the more excited I become,” said Piccione, who is originally from Sicily, backstage after the show. The London-based designer and print master has worked with the likes of Mary Katrantzou, Longchamp, and Céline.
Israeli designer Aliza Shalali Daizy, of Daizy Shely, also took top honors for her complex embellishments, an exuberant mix of feathers, geometric beading with hand- and digital-print leather. Daizy, who has lived in Milan for five years, decided to stay on after studying fashion at Istituto Marangoni. “I worked so hard for the past six months creating all the fabrics because I believe in what I’m doing,” she said.
Serbian designer Milica Stankovic won for her Corion bag collection, which mixes lattice-braided calfskin and reptile with sculptured metal handles, all made in Tuscany. Stankovic, based in Paris, worked with Jean Paul Gaultier and Jean-Claude Jitrois and was inspired to start her label by her grandfather, a former tailor to the king of Serbia.
Last night’s exhibition at the Museo di Roma in the Palazzo Braschi also showcased the pieces by all past winners, from 2009′s Marco de Vincenzo (whose brand has recently been picked up by LVMH) to Stella Jean, who won in 2011 with her mix of African wax prints and fifties shapes. 2013′s winner, Austrian Arthur Arbesser, produces his collection in Milan, but he came back to Rome to see the competition. Arbesser, who launched his brand after working for Giorgio Armani, will present his first runway show in Milan next September.
Marco de Vincenzo: If you don’t know his name, you’d better learn it fast. The Italian up-and-comer, who has worked with Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi on the Fendi collection since 2000, recently secured financial backing from LVMH. LVMH has proven to be a strong supporter of fashion’s new guard—what with the creation its Young Fashion Designer Prize as well as its investment in Nicholas Kirkwood and J.W. Anderson—and bought a minority stake of De Vincenzo’s eponymous brand last month. Ever quick to the draw, Moda Operandi’s Indre Rockefeller has already scooped up the designer’s tactile, kaleidoscopic Fall ’14, and is offering it for pre-sale via an online trunk show, which runs through March 20. “I think he is an innovator,” Rockefeller told Style.com. “There are a number of designers who are doing beautiful things, but whenever I see Marco’s collections, it feels like he’s marching to the beat of his own drum,” she explained. “When you look at his use of color, texture, and print, it almost feels like he’s operating in another dimension. His Fall collection popped right off the runway, and for our purposes, it will pop right off the page as well.” That’s some high praise from a major retailer. “This was a very special season for me,” relayed De Vincenzo, who describes his woman as daring, classical, and hypnotic. “The timetable for a trunk show of this level is perfect because it’s so close to the show—the energy is still there,” he said of the Moda Operandi event. Here, De Vincenzo speaks with Style.com about LVMH, working with Silvia and Karl, and his plans for the future.
How has your role at Fendi influenced your design aesthetic? And what have you learned from Silvia and Karl?
When I started working at Fendi, I was a young boy. I owe all I know about this job to the opportunity I’ve had to observe and work with those two very important people—Silvia and Karl. I learned what it means to be free and to constantly want to reach my own goals and to create new ones. Working on bags together with Silvia gave me the opportunity to completely understand the balance that transforms a beautiful object into a big commercial success. I consider myself very lucky to have built my knowledge in such a context.
Did your role as a consultant at Fendi help facilitate LVMH’s investment in your brand?
Of course. Through Fendi, LVMH has had the time and opportunity to get to know me both as a creative and as a person. I love my job more than anything, and because of that, I dedicate most of my time to it. I believe that this dedication has been understood and appreciated.
Why did you feel it was the right move to sell a minority stake of your business to LVMH?
Being an independent designer is not easy. You can be noticed and arouse interest in people, but there’s a moment when you can’t satisfy what the fashion industry expects from season to season by yourself. You need to create and experiment, and you need money to do so. Furthermore, if you don’t have enough resources and a good team working with you, it’s hard to guarantee high quality concerning production and distribution. LVMH is giving me the possibility to grow.
We’ve seen big fashion companies investing in several emerging and independent designers in the last couple of years. What are your thoughts on this? And how do you think it will affect the fashion industry and help it evolve?
I think that all this can facilitate a real generational turnover—not only via hiring talented designers to reshape established brands, but also by helping new names. It’s very natural to invest in the future of fashion because nothing lasts forever, and innovation is essential in every creative field.
What are your plans now that LVMH has invested?
From now on the game will become more serious. This does not mean that my last years of work were a game, but it’s true that more resources, together with a strong, pure, and creative vision, can make miracles. My business is becoming more definite.
Can you tell us about your aesthetic? What excites and inspires you?
I leave instinct to guide me without any limits. My aesthetic varies—it’s a harmony between very different themes. Optical illusions, kinetic art, and visual and tactile 3-D concepts are some of my starting points, together with the idea of being well dressed, and typically Italian.
What would you like to see change in the fashion industry?
Unfortunately, I know a lot of very talented designers who had to give up their projects because they were alone and were not accepted by the fashion industry. This must be avoided. A substantial project always needs a group of different [supporters and creatives] to be built. In my opinion, it’s very important to have a good team working together.
Roman designer Marco de Vincenzo just got the LVMH bump. Today, WWD revealed that the fashion corporation has struck a deal with the on-the-rise talent and acquired a “significant” minority stake in his signature line. De Vincenzo, who sent his Fall ’14 collection down the runway in Milan yesterday, also has ties to LVMH-owned house Fendi, where he has been working with Silvia Venturini Fendi on the label’s accessories collection since 2000. Reports say that he will continue to consult on the brand.
De Vincenzo is the fourth up-and-comer in whom LVMH has recently invested—Nicholas Kirkwood, J.W. Anderson, and Maxime Simoens being the other three. Furthermore, LVMH will welcome thirty new rising stars to Paris next week for the first leg of its new LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize. The company’s latest move further proves its commitment to supporting fashion design’s new guard.
Francesca Versace—yes, of those Versaces—writes in from her jaunts around Milan fashion week.
Milan may be an ancient and tradition-bound city, but like everywhere else, it’s got an eye out for Who’s On Next. That’s just what was being celebrated at a cocktail party at the magnificent Palazzo Morando yesterday, where the sixth winner of the emerging-designer prize was announced.
Last year’s winner, Marco de Vincenzo, told me that even after winning, the path to success is still long. But that shouldn’t dampen the spirits of this year’s winner, Erkan Çoruh (pictured, with Harper’s Bazaar‘s Sophia Neophitou). It’s hard to imagine anything dampening footwear designer Jerome C. Rousseau’s—he smiles at me and tells me about the twin inspirations for his modern, colorful shoes: Keith Haring and Grace Jones.
Elsewhere, I spot the milliner Justin Smith of J Smith Esq, and Zara Gorman, whose Perspex and leather hats are architecturally inspired. And then there’s my friend Mirco Giovannini, whose dress I’m wearing tonight. Everywhere, the up-and-coming are being celebrated. “Viva i young,” the Moschillo family shouts. My aunt Donatella is a bit more pragmatic. “Bravi,” she told me, “but they still have to sweat.” “Let’s see who survives,” Diego Della Valle added gravely.
But tonight is about congratulations, not predictions of doom. Here’s hoping the spotlight on Milanese design will shine again on Milan as the fashion capital of the world. There’s no place like it—no place like home.
Three new names to know: Erkan Coruh, Jerome C. Rousseau, and Claudio Montias. The trio of designers—Coruh for ready-to-wear and Rousseau and Montias for accessories—were just named winners of Vogue Italia‘s annual Who Is On Next awards. The victors were announced at Rome’s AltaRomaAltaModa haute couture week, which just kicked off in the Italian capital.
Coruh’s Spring collection, Radical Beauty, took the top prize. Inspired by the work of Iranian artist Shirin Neshat, it charts, in the Turkish designer’s words, the “dramatic journey from the rigid world of Islam to a vision of feminine beauty.” (In practice, that means everything from head-covering tops paired with mini bustle skirts to a patchwork dress fashioned from raw-edged chamois suede—all made in Italy, one of the contest’s prerequisites. A look from his Fall collection, The Women of Allah, is pictured, left.)
The Canadian footwear designer Jerome C. Rousseau and the Argentine footwear designer Claudio Montias shared the second prize. Rousseau said he was inspired by “glam and disco” for his winning collection; he honed his shoe skills working for Matthew Williamson (who knows a thing or two about both), before launching his own brand in London in 2008. (He now sells to Barneys, Dover Street Market, and Harvey Nichols.)
Winning comes with a plum reward—a slot on September’s show calendar at Milan fashion week and a shoot with one of Vogue Italia‘s star photographers. Last year’s winner, ready-to-wear designer Marco de Vincenzo, says the prize made “all the difference” for his fledgling business. His namesake collection now sells to 26 stores worldwide, and in September, his slinky dresses will be available at Paris’ Colette.