18 posts tagged "Marco Zanini"
Call it the Yayoi Kusama effect. George Clooney spotlighted an emerging trend when he turned up on the cover of W‘s Art Issue in a polka-dotted Giorgio Armani suit customized by the famed artist. (Her recent exhibition at David Zwirner’s gallery, I Who Have Arrived in Heaven, drew long lines.) We saw similar spots on Spring runways including Burberry Prorsum, Emanuel Ungaro, and Sportmax. Playful polka dots are popping up at this week’s Haute Couture shows, too. Raf Simons’ latest lineup for Dior featured intricate eyelets and cutwork details, while Marco Zanini put his own quirky spin on the quintessential spots at Schiaparelli. Cartoonish circles have also been popular in the new Pre-Fall collections, with designers like Stella McCartney and Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz making their respective points on cocktail attire and matching accessories.
It’s going to be an exciting couture season this January, full of fresh perspectives from old favorites. As we’re sure you’ve heard, Marco Zanini will present his debut collection for the revived house of Schiaparelli on January 20, and today, we’ve learned that conceptual fashion provocateur, Hussein Chalayan, has been tapped by the storied house of Vionnet to design its demi-couture collection, which was launched in Spring ’13. Chalayan will unveil his first outing for the brand in Paris on January 21. Goga Ashkenazi, Vionnet’s chairman and creative director who acquired the label in 2012 after a tumultuous round of designer switch-ups, told WWD she was “extremely happy about this collaboration,” and added that Chalayan is “a true artist, very conceptual, he thinks out of the box and has a strong architectural approach. He represents what Madeleine Vionnet represented in her era.” We have to admit, we’re excited to see what kind of cerebral kick that Chalayan—the man who, over the last twenty years, has been responsible for everything from the original bubble dress, to LED frocks, to conical wooden skirts—might bring to the house.
Didn’t get quite what you hoped for this Christmas? Don’t fret, just gather up those gift receipts, exchange your unwanted trinkets for cash, and head over to Christie’s in Paris. On January 23 (which, it should be noted, is the last day of the Haute Couture shows), the auction house will put 180 items from Elsa Schiaparelli’s personal collection under the hammer. The treasures—which include vintage Schiaparelli wares, a totally divine tête-à-tête chaise in pink (what other color would it be?), the legend’s 1936 Giacometti floor lamp, and original portraits of the designer—are expected to grab about 700,000 pounds. If you can’t make it to Paris for the sale, just tune in to Style.com on January 20, when Schiaparelli’s newly appointed creative director, Marco Zanini, will present his debut collection for the revived house.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua isn’t one to wax nostalgic. “For me, designing is all about a new story and a modern attitude,” the designer said before a cocktail party in honor of his ready-to-wear label, No. 21, at the New York residence of Valentina Castellani on Friday night. The soiree celebrated a new push for the brand, which, founded in 2010, gained financial backing from Gilmar in 2012. And the evolution of his label is evidence that Dell’Acqua’s forward-looking philosophy applies not only to his clothes, but to his life, too. Fall ’14 will bring plenty of new adventures for Dell’Acqua, now 50. He’s launching menswear under the No.21 moniker, as well as presenting his first collection for heritage French house Rochas, where he was appointed creative director in October after Marco Zanini announced that he was leaving to head up Schiaparelli. “I’m not a young designer, so when they called, I said, Are you sure?” Dell’Acqua laughed, noting that other storied houses (like Balenciaga and Loewe) have opted for younger creative directors (like Alexander Wang and Jonathan Anderson, respectively). Sometimes, however, it helps to have a talent who knows the ropes.
Indeed, Dell’Acqua is no up-and-comer. In 1996, before stints at Malo and Les Copains, the designer launched his successful, hyper-feminine namesake line, known for its whimsical yet seductive allure and lingerie accents. Two years later, he started an eponymous menswear range. But his story is all too familiar—Dell’Acqua lost the rights to his name after a dispute with his parent company, Cherry Grove (who also owned Malo), in 2009. He made a comeback a year later with No. 21—a ready-to-wear label named for his birthday (December 21) and his lucky number. “It’s about real women,” he told Style.com during that first show in 2010. Now, three years later, the brand, which is carried in stores like Selfridges and Matches, independent boutiques, and at such e-tailers as Net-a-Porter and Moda Operandi, delivers just that—smart staples (think: embellished separates, slick blazers, and crisp overcoats) that cater to real-world women with a penchant for luxury. “No. 21 was born out of a horrible moment for me,” recalled Dell’Acqua. “I wanted to do a little line that was completely different, but still had my DNA.”
As was widely rumored, Marco Zanini, formerly of Rochas, was named creative director of the revived Maison Schiaparelli today. “My mission is to make the name Schiaparelli resound in both the present and the future,” Zanini said in a statement. He will design both ready to wear and couture for the house (following Christian Lacroix’s capsule collection of couture last season); his first rendezvous with the house, in Schiaparelli parlance, will be for Spring ’14 couture in January.