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August 20 2014

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31 posts tagged "Marcus Wainwright"

Calvin Klein’s Zucchelli ♥ NY, Rag & Bone’s Neville ♥ the Yankees, and More

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Random designer news from last night’s CFDA party at the Ace Hotel for the organization’s new Assouline-published book, American Fashion Menswear: Italo Zucchelli confirmed that, after last winter’s successful experiment, he will again be showing his Fall Calvin Klein menswear in New York in February (Milan remains his venue of choice for his Spring collections). The famously organized Zucchelli (“I learned that at Jil Sander”) has already designed the whole Fall range—so there, slackers. Rag & Bone’s Marcus Wainwright and David Neville, meanwhile, are off to London, where Liberty is holding a dinner for them on Thursday night (stay tuned for our coverage). The only downside for Neville? The die-hard Yankees fan (well, as die-hard as anyone born in the U.K. could be) would miss Game 7 of the World Series, should the Bronx Bombers fail to close tonight. And, finally, Jeff Halmos and Sam Shipley can’t get over how quickly their stuff sold out on Gilt Man, the online retailer that was a co-host of the party.
Photo: NEIL RASMUS/PatrickMcMullan.com

At Rag & Bone’s Soho Opening: Sienna Miller And…Walkable Shoes?

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There was plenty to take in at last night’s opening party for Rag & Bone’s new store on Mercer Street. For starters, the petite blond in tiny gray flannel shorts chatting with designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville proved to be Sienna Miller. And no, readers of The New York Times, she’s not dating either. Actually, Neville’s wife, Gucci Westman, was in on the chitchat as she bounced their young son Dashel. Hung on the walls were blow-ups of Joseph Holmes’ photographs, which depict Ye Olde Curiosity Shoppe-esque workspaces, inviting some self-congratulation on the clutter of one’s own workspace. (The store will in fact have a rotating selection of photography. Next up: Mark Borthwick.) In contrast, the record collection stacked behind the bar invited reflection on the relative suckiness of one’s own vinyl cache.

Eventually, however, the eye alighted on a current fashion rarity—comfortable shoes. Sneakers! Pancake-flat lace-up boots! Something best described as the love child of Dr. Martens and mukluks! Has the reign of the skyscraper platform come to an end? “We’ve been doing really well with the shoes,” said Wainwright, picking up a pair of cone-heel ankle boots that are reportedly blowing out. “This is about three inches,” he said. “Which isn’t so bad. Walkable.” Not that Rag & Bone has shied away from introducing a few nosebleed high pairs to its expanded collection of shoes for Spring 2010. “We’ve got a few four-inchers,” he admitted. The heel is dead, long live the heel.

Photo: Neil Rasmus/PatrickMcMullan.com

Yea, Nay, Or Eh: The Two-In-One Shoe

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The hybrid shoe is here to stay. A brief recap: open-toe, high-heeled hiking boots at Rag & Bone, where Marcus Wainwright and David Neville are busily expanding their accessories business, including footwear. Alexander Wang: clog brogues, open-toe, high-heeled motorcycle boots; peep-toe dual animal-print wedge booties. Preen showed a pair of platform sandals with a bootlike cuff around the ankle as part of its debut collection of shoes; as an aside, it’s also worth mentioning that the Preen shoes ratified the continuing relevance of the cone heel, albeit in a blockier shape than for Fall. And then there is the thong boot, back with a vengeance for Spring 2010. Victoria Bartlett sent toe-ring thong boots down the VPL runway on Saturday, and two hours later, Richard Chai showed every look at his show for his new Love label with a pair of wedge-heeled thong boots that came up to low calf. What’s the deal? Are women keen to go pantless and afraid to show their ankles? Is this trend—and its longevity—the result of designers observing girls on the street wearing boots and brogues all summer long, and then thinking, I bet they’d like to aerate their feet? No complaints, just asking. Comments, please. Also, a word about the shin guards at the Alexander Wang show: This is a look that’s been rolling around the Lower East Side for a few months; this writer always assumed it had something to do with kickball leagues. Any takers for a shin-guard trend?

Rag & Bone Expands Into Eyewear

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The universe only offers up so many opportunities for an Al Yankovich-style retrofit of a novelty hit from the eighties. So, apologies in advance, but here goes: The future’s so bright for Rag & Bone, they gotta make shades. In other words, R & B design duo Marcus Wainwright and David Neville have crossed the eyewear Rubicon, and their new frames will debut on the Rag & Bone Spring ’10 runway tomorrow. Riffing on classic silhouettes such as the Wayfarer and the Aviator, the sunglasses come in three types of tortoiseshell and boast the usual Rag & Bone quality enhancements: For example, every pair is hand-cut from sheet acetate, hand-polished, and features double-reinforced hinges. (Neville and Wainwright got some technical direction from Morgenthal Frederics’ Jeff Press, a person whose judgment we’re just going to trust on eyewear manufacture details too wonky to enumerate here.) Keep a close eye on the catwalk for the signature screw embellishment on the frames, and if you’re keen to get Timbuk 3′s chords out of your head, trying humming “I Want Your Specs.”

Photo: Courtesy of Rag & Bone

Stam Is (Sort Of) The New Nathan Bogle

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The apocalyptic storm that hit just as Rag & Bone’s party to celebrate its Intermix launch began was no impediment for the crowd that packed the Ace Hotel’s sofa-strewn lobby. “I’m so surprised,” said the label’s taller designing half, Marcus Wainwright. “I thought it would be just me and David [Neville] with the people who work here.” The event’s hostess, Jessica Stam, it turns out, is now more than just a friend of the house. “We’ve been designing some clothes together,” said Neville. Stam, however, corrected the statement a hair. “It’s more of a collaboration, really,” she said. At any rate, the newest designing model might just be called on to fill in when Neville takes his paternity leave after wife Gucci Westman has their second baby, due in two weeks. (Though, according to Wainwright, company policy only allows a single week off.) The trio stayed mum on the details of the Stam & Bone pieces, which will make their debut for Spring 2010. “Everyone’s here hoping we’d get to see a little bit,” said Lauren Santo Domingo, who showed off her hand-painted Christian Cota dress and new Chanel bucket bag. “Stam’s got great style. Everyone loves to see what she’s wearing.”

Photo: Clint Spaulding / Patrick McMullan