3 posts tagged "Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli"
In today’s Throwback Thursday video, Tim Blanks looks back on Valentino’s Spring 2001 Haute Couture collection, which featured “real clothes” and fresh-faced models like Stella Tennant and Carmen Kass. There were suits, cocktail dresses, daywear, evening gowns—everything a woman could ever need, all executed to perfection. “It’s a vision of another time in fashion,” Blanks says. Couture has since become more about spectacle and drama than wearability, but Valentino’s influence remains in Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collections. See for yourself and watch the full video here.
At the Fall ’13 Couture shows, a trio of houses uprooted the bright and breezy blossoms we’ve seen of late (just take a look through the recent Resort ’14 and menswear shows, and you’ll see what we’re talking about) for a more subdued, somewhat edgier take on flora: branch and stem motifs.
Zuhair Murad printed leafless twigs across a number of dramatic gowns (above, right), evoking a pop-noir winter wonderland of sorts. In its chimerically zany collection of repurposed vintage, Swarovski spikes, and yet more Kanye-favored face masks, Maison Martin Margiela showed a fuchsia column overlaid with embroidered wildflower stems (above, center). And, lastly, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli produced a dazzling cosmos of natural-world-inspired wares at Valentino. Here, it was coral that reached around heavy brocade (above, left) and crawled up silk insets. Sure, coral is technically fauna, but its sinewy offshoots are branches nonetheless.
Hedi Slimane sent out dresses that called to mind the “kinderwhore” fashion pioneered by Courtney Love and company during grunge’s nascent years. But the Saint Laurent designer wasn’t the only one who embraced baby dolls for Fall. At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli updated the youthful silhouette with couture-level craftsmanship, while Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas and Undercover’s Jun Takahashi showed wispy lingerie-inspired takes on the trend. For proof that the abbreviated shape has legs off the catwalk, look no further than Alexa Chung, who can rock a mini like no other—those pins! Sky Ferreira, meanwhile, could’ve passed for Love’s sophisticated little sis in the sparkly Saint Laurent number she wore to the Met Gala.