14 posts tagged "Maria Grazia Chiuri"
At last night’s Valentino fête in L.A., the dress code was chic and unusually easy to follow: all Valentino, all the time. That’s not to say it was a one-note affair. Valentino’s designers, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, have dedicated themselves to shaking up the storied house, which means injecting a little more downtown edge into the frills the label is known for while also creating the ladylike frocks the label is known for. (Of course, some things—like Valentino red and bows—are nonnegotiable.) The crowd last night split more or less down the middle: Some went sugar; some went spice. Sugar girls like Alexis Bledel, Gia Coppola, Jordana Brewster, and hostess Chloë Sevigny all chose sweet, girly frocks. Their spicy counterparts—Amber Valletta, Milla Jovovich, Kirsty Hume, and hostess Kate Bosworth—went harder-edged, in plunging dresses, biker leathers, Valentino short shorts, and, in Bosworth’s case, skintight leather pants. Chiuri and Piccioli are clearly making concessions to both sides in their bid to revive the flagging label, but we’re curious: Which Valentino do you prefer? Are you a fan of Bosworth’s brand of naughty? Or would you go with Chloë’s lovely nice?
Ask a designer his thought of the day during fashion week, and more often than not, you’ll get a frantic bit of last-minute show prep. But the ten designers commissioned for On/Off’s pop-up shop at London fashion week were sending good vibes. They had good reason to. The brains behind On/Off—LFW’s quirkier sidekick schedule—asked ten designers, including Duro Olowu, PPQ, Jasper Conran, and Bora Aksu, to contribute their thoughts and designs for limited-edition T-shirts (donated by Edun Live) to benefit Plan UK’s Haiti relief efforts. The £30 shirts have been selling thick and fast all week at On/Off. The thoughts here include “Breath,” “Laugh,” “Dare to Care and Share,” and “On the other hand, I’d like it if you did.” But as to which designer contributed which, your guess is as good as ours—the organizers kept the individual contributions anonymous. Olowu did let us in on his secret, though—his shirt reads, “Ayiti Cherie,” an old Creole phrase Haitians use to express love for their country and culture. “A disaster and suffering of such magnitude needs as much aid as it can get,” Olowu said. And to that end, as many T-shirts as he can make. The initial total run of 100 T-shirts met such a high demand that more are being made. For more information on purchasing those, visit www.onoff.tv.
A similar good-cause idea occurred to Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who helped kick off Milan fashion week with a fête for their T-Shirt Couture line (pictured) and Stefano Guindani’s book of photographs of the Haiti. Their new, delicately ruffled white tees are also being sold to benefit Haitian charities. And while these shirts cost more than their London counterparts, the benefit to the ravaged country is all the greater. The tees are available for €250 online and in Valentino’s Parisian and Milanese boutiques during their respective fashion weeks.
Tonight at its Madison Avenue boutique, Valentino will unveil its newest accessory concept: the Shopping Couture bag, which is not just one bag, but in fact a ten-style series that the Italian house has dubbed a “Designer Decalogue.” The bags are the creation of Valentino’s longtime accessories team Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, who spent a decade working under Mr. V and as of October hold the creative reins over all categories of the design house, including haute couture, which will be their runway debut in January. The concept of the Shopping Couture bag is to pair the house’s considerable skill for artisanal embellishment with the everyday practicality of a tote. The bags go on sale now, with new styles to be released month by month in the year ahead. There’s the Extravagance, which is covered with peacock feathers (pictured here); the Pétale, bedecked by a massive handcrafted rose; the New Dentelle, which creates a “new lace” with lasered ponyskin and tulle; and the Cabochon, studded with pastel stones and silver beads and the last to be delivered. Let’s just say that practicality, like everything in life, is relative.
The gloves are off at the Italian design house, which this week let go Alessandra Facchinetti as the designer of the main line in favor of the accessories team of Pier Paolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Alessandra Facchinetti’s statement to the press:
“It was with deep regret that I learnt from the press that I would no longer be working with Valentino. This news came as a great surprise since the company’s top management has not yet seen fit to inform me of the above.
“I would like to thank Valentino S.p.A. for showing their appreciation of my “creative contribution and my sophisticated talent,” although I deeply regret the fact that this talent and contribution do not seem to have been adequately acknowledged.
“I find it extremely sad that a brand label of the caliber of Valentino, which has made history in the world of fashion, has been the subject of rumors for the past two weeks.
“Despite everything that has happened, I sincerely feel that this experience has empowered me because I know that my work has been deeply appreciated throughout the world. I would like to thank all my co-workers and all those people who have shown me both loyalty and affection.”
The House of Valentino’s statement to the press:
“I think it is a wise decision.
“To pretend to transform and revolutionize the Valentino style is a utopia which is a loss from the start.
“Valentino’s style is very strong and recognizable, which can only be taken forward, with necessary updating, by those who love it, respect it, and, above all, know it perfectly.
“Pier Paolo and Maria Grazia are company-oriented people, and it is right to give them a chance to bring forward a style, which, alongside Valentino, they have developed.”
“They are two serious, capable professionals that I had alongside me for many years. They always demonstrated an enormous respect and love for my work.
“There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today.
“It is a shame that their predecessor didn’t feel this need.
“I wish them all the success.”