2 posts tagged "Maria Lemus"
Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month rolls on, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Maria ke Fisherman, designed by Victor Alonso and Maria Lemus
Need to know: This Madrid-based pair has a penchant for spinning together hyper-techy, nineties-influenced clubwear—the kind of stuff a self-styling, self-mocking, Internet-era Millennial would pair with whatever they found at VFiles and Beacon’s Closet for a late night out in Bushwick. For its latest lineup, the brand, which launched for Spring 2011, takes the cyperpunk sports theme to a new place with some not-so-new-at-all—and quite cheekily reimagined—old-school references. Sand-and-pastel-pink-shaded 3-D printed fur appeared in multiple iterations, like crop tops, thigh highs, plush coats, miniskirts, and platform Buffalo boots. These wares were inspired by “Monsters University mixed with Korean hookers and the way hip-hop singers dressed in the nineties, especially when they went to Aspen to ski,” said the duo. Hair and makeup was straight out of Spice World. The range had the energy of an early Jeremy Scott collection—you have to have a bit (make that a lot) of humorous attitude to rock these wares. Some slightly softer pieces, like horizontal-striped white and navy denim column dresses, rounded out the collection.
They say: “We wanted to channel sweatshirts and sweaters like they did in the nineties and just make them in fur. Like, what Lil Kim would wear to go skiing.”
Where to find it: Opening Ceremony.
The story of the techy, nineties club-inspired, sports-cum-ready-to-wear brand Maria ke Fisherman (ke means “and” in Greek) is more romantic than most. It began at an after-party in Madrid. “We realized we could do something big together,” recalled Victor Alonso, the street-art-educated, fashion self-trained half of the design duo, of his late-night introduction to his Badajoz, Spain-raised partner, Maria Lemus. Soon after, the pair moved to Greece together—Thessaloniki, to be exact—with no real plan other than to live as “complete unknowns.”
“It was an existential exploration,” explained Alonso, who had just finished a degree in environmental science at the time. “We needed some time to think about how we could contribute to the world.”
During visits to Crete, Lemus fell in love with an elderly fisherman. “He was lonely and melancholic and always wore a red geranium behind his ear,” said Alonso. Lemus began scribbling “Maria ke fisherman” again and again on the nautical tablecloth of their local bar; the pair also started sketching early designs.
Eventually, they came to their own brand of futuristic, primary-colored separates that debuted for Spring ’11 in Madrid. “Our work is a product of our lives. The design is within ourselves and is nourished by our experiences. It usually comes as a surprise, as an explosion, until it becomes our obsession,” the two said of their Madrid-based design process. They looked to cyberpunk, nineties Spanish techno culture, and neo-yakuza movies for the past Spring ’14 collection, which featured zipper and mesh-lined sweatsuits and separates.
Their Fall ’14 range—which they will show at New York’s Standard Hotel with the help of Made Talent on February 12—will be softer than what we’ve seen in the past. “After our last two collections, in which sharp styles, flat surfaces, and futuristic concepts were predominant, we drew a collection with classical intentions and rounded silhouettes,” they asserted. But it isn’t all a diversion. “We haven’t given up our logo mania nor the idea of designing clothes that make you feel really special,” explained the pair of the outing, a preview of which debuts above. For instance, there will be slack seams made of custom, pastel-toned 3-D synthetic hair that the duo brought over from Korea. “Embroidered optic white denim will accentuate the figure and bring out a magical sharpness against the blurred hair,” they said.
The forthcoming range caters to “a very shy girl having her best day.” Lemus and Alonso mention Japanese actress and model Kiko Mizuhara as a new muse. “Our aesthetic is toy, bold, mogul, sweet, future-is-now,” they offered. No doubt, these looks would bring out the bold in anyone.