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April 19 2014

styledotcom "Being fashionable is not being loud. Some of the most stylish people are those who can create with the basics." stylem.ag/1l2qJJI

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22 posts tagged "Marios Schwab"

Runway To Red Carpet: Show Some Skin

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Jennifer Lawrence, Rihanna, and Emma Roberts

This abbreviated week, stars turned out in snap-worthy wares that highlighted the age-old red-carpet friend—skin—in inventive ways. For example, in Mexico City on Monday, Rinko Kikuchi arrived at the premiere of Pacific Rim wearing a shoulder-baring Marios Schwab Fall ’13 gown. The night prior in Los Angeles, Nicki Minaj walked the BET Awards step-and-repeat in a Roberto Cavalli dress that resembled the designer’s Spring ’13 show closers. The sexed-up black number left little to the imagination, but it was still relatively tame for the oft outré Trinidadian.

Thanks to the star-studded Couture shows, the runway itself served as a red carpet this week. And there, too, we saw clever spins on skin. At Atelier Versace‘s Couture presentation in Paris on Sunday night, Emma Roberts wore an asymmetric white minidress from the house’s Fall ’13 ready-to-wear range. The clavicle-highlighting wedge at her right shoulder felt fresh. The next day, Dior darling Jennifer Lawrence appeared at the house’s Couture show donning a funky guipure-lace midriff top and wide-legged pants from Dior’s Resort ’14 offering.

And finally, pop goddess Rihanna hit Chanel’s Couture outing on Tuesday in a full-length cardigan from the brand’s Resort ’14 collection. Riri buttoned the sweater only at the midriff, consequently creating a thigh-high slit and navel-skimming plunge. She covered up partially here, though, with a few strands of Chanel pearls.

Photos: Getty Images

These Shoes Are Bananas

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Ancient Greek Sandals x Carven

“I was quite shocked by the bananas,” said Christina Martini, the creative director of Greece-based footwear range Ancient Greek Sandals. Let us explain: Martini, who designed shoes for Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton in Paris before launching her line of handmade leather sandals with business partner Nikolas Minoglou in 2011, was approached earlier this year by Carven’s Guillaume Henry. The designer asked her to create a collaborative range of gladiators for his tropical-tinged Resort ’14 collection, and apparently, he requested the fruity look. The result is a capsule of surprisingly graphic wares, which, having debuted at Carven’s Resort presentation yesterday, are offered in three heights and a palette of black, nude, and, of course, banana yellow. “They were easy to design but difficult to make, because all the bananas are at different angles,” offered Martini, who notes that cutouts and hand-stamping were particularly difficult. “And we had to make sure that the tall styles fit nicely on the leg.”

No stranger to runway collaborations, Martini has also worked with fellow Greek designer Marios Schwab on footwear capsules for the past two seasons, and notes that she pulls inspiration from ancient Greek jewelry, ceramics, and classical sandals (hence the name) when creating her collaborative and signature styles. Crafted in Greece using traditional techniques, Martini’s shoes are available at over eighty locations worldwide and online at the label’s Web site. The Carven kicks will start at about $320 and hit stores during Resort ’14 shipments.

Photo: Courtesy of Ancient Greek Sandals

Greeks Unite

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For his Spring collection, Marios Schwab focused heavily on the traditions and rituals from bygone Grecian eras. Who better to collaborate with on the shoes this season than Christina Martini of Ancient Greek Sandals (previously a shoe designer at Louis Vuitton and Balenciaga)? “Last July, I had the chance to meet Mario at Rainbowwave showroom at a mid-summer party in London,” she tells Style.com. “The fact that there is a Greek connection gave an extra dimension to it.” There are two styles of the handmade leather sandals, made using the traditional techniques that have been passed down for generations in Greece, featuring painted raffia fringe, lacing, and tinted raw edging. Here, Style.com has the up-close look at the shoes (and we spotted Lisa Marie Fernandez already sporting a pair of them at the Christopher Kane show). Look out for them in stores including Bergdorf Goodman and Kirna Zabête and on Net-a-Porter.com come spring. Martini’s also launched a collection of menswear shoes for Spring and has her first kids line on the way. On whom she would like to collaborate with next, she says: “I love the work of Phoebe Philo at Céline, but this is a total dream. At this moment, I like the idea of working with other fellow Greek fashion designers such as Sophia Kokosalaki and Mary Katrantzou.”

Photo: Courtesy of Ancient Greek Sandals

Putting On—And Taking Off—The Best Of British Fashion

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London calls, and the world answers. London fashion week is in full swing, and what better time for an English retailer to indulge in a little justified bragging? Matches tapped London’s best designers for a new installation at its Marylebone flagship, which it debuted over the weekend to a crowd that included Giles Deacon, Norton & Sons’ Patrick Grant, Elizabeth Saltzman Walker, Tallulah Harlech, and the British Fashion Council’s Caroline Rush. The store’s mannequins were ingeniously dressed in key looks by U.K. labels including Stella McCartney, Roksanda Ilincic, Alexander McQueen, Burberry, and Christopher Kane.

Matches’ stock is very English; its clientele, says CEO Tom Chapman, more a mix. “Fifty-five percent of our clientele is online, and half is international,” he said. “We send bucket loads to Australia and China—we’ve gotten used to tiny feet sizes. Then again, we get a lot of cool hunters after that very latest thing—and to be honest, much of that is created by our very own homegrown talent. They do us proud.”

The atmosphere last night on the South Bank, on the other hand, was a trifle more French—à la Moulin Rouge. The foxes were out for the launch of Marios Schwab’s new lingerie collection for Kallisti at the Crazy Horse. And not just the dancers who modeled the lingerie. A renegade (yet fashion-savvy) fox broke into one of the venue’s dressing rooms and chewed through dancers’ Louboutins right before show time.

For Schwab, lingerie has long been a part of life. “My dad worked in the lingerie industry for Triumph,” he said, “so I have always been surrounded by the stuff.” But it may be more topical just at present. “My seamstress is reading Fifty Shades of Grey during every break,” he laughed. “I think these days people are thinking, screw it—literally—we want to enjoy life, and our bodies.” A ten-minute show was enough to titillate the likes of Leigh Lezark, Harley Viera-Newton, Eliza Doolittle, and Pixie Geldof. And that, of course, was the point. “Being provocative is back on the menu in fashion,” Schwab said.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Harvey Nichols’ Secret Garden

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For its tribute to the Chelsea Garden Show, Harvey Nichols asked some of London’s brightest designers to create floral installations, unveiling the results last night at its Secret Garden cocktail party on the retailer’s fifth floor. Roksanda Ilincic, Marios Schwab, James Long, and Mary Katrantzou all showed off their masterpieces, which included Ilincic’s “wall” of live flowers, Katrantzou’s window treatment, and Schwab’s gazebo made to feel like a confessional booth.

While Katrantzou, Joan Collins, Tali Lennox, and Astrid Muñoz sipped cocktails from tiny watering cans, Bianca Jagger (who had her grandchildren Amba and Assisi Jackson in tow) and Schwab offered up the best moment of the evening. As the two sat in the “confessional” gazebo and stared at its ceiling, Schwab asked, “Can you see it?” He was referring to well-hidden erotic/pornographic scenes crafted in the Perspex tiles. Whereas it took some guests hours to catch it, if they did at all, there was no getting past Jagger—the queen of seventies decadence (pictured). “Of course, darling, but don’t make me say ‘penis’ in front of all these people…”

Photo: Courtesy of Harvey Nichols