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22 posts tagged "Marios Schwab"

Central Saint Martins Alums Say Their Goodbyes To Charing Cross Road


“Have a listen. This is educational,” screamed Pulp front man Jarvis Cocker before playing to a rowdy crowd at Friday night’s farewell celebration to Central Saint Martins College’s buildings on Charing Cross Road. A CSM graduate, Cocker, whose song “Common People” was famously written about one of his classmates, was just as nostalgic as the students and faculty dancing in the audience. Next month, after 72 years, the school will move from its crumbling 1939 buildings in the heart of Soho to a $320 million complex in North London’s King’s Cross. The new building will be a high-tech haven to the school’s rebellious student body and unrivaled, unorthodox faculty. But that doesn’t make it any easier to say goodbye to Charing Cross, whose paint-chipped halls have been walked by Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan, John Galliano, and countless other fashion talents.

Hosted by Love magazine’s Katie Grand (above right), a former CSM student herself, the party welcomed alums like Christopher Kane, Giles Deacon (below left), Marios Schwab, and Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchhoff. But, in true Saint Martins style, the fête wasn’t just for VIPs. A mob of almost 800 graduates and current students, many of whom were clad top to toe in looks from their friends’ or their own graduate collections, ran from techno-lit classroom to techno-lit classroom, fluorescent glasses of vodka cocktails in hand. Partygoers paid homage to their alma mater by signing or doodling in a massive bound book posted at the school’s entrance, while Grand and CSM tutor Julie Verhoeven took their tributes to the next level, graffiti-ing the walls of the upstairs studios-turned-dancehalls. In order to grab a piece of history, a handful of students snuck past security into the off-limits sewing rooms, gathering whatever muslins, patterns, or mementos they could carry.

Before leaving the stage, Cocker offered some words of wisdom, yelling, “This is the last night of Saint Martins. Some people might think that’s a drag. But what we have to move is the spirit that existed within this place. Because it isn’t about this,” he said, gesturing to the building. “It’s about this,” he screamed, pointing to the crowd. “Here’s to the future of Saint Martins. May it survive.”

Photos: Boo George

LFW Preview: Marios Schwab


In a new series, drops in on a few of London’s hottest young talents to find out what’s in store. Next up: Marios Schwab, who presents his collection tomorrow.

“I’m preoccupied with the topography of the body,” Marios Schwab said at his Dalston studio a few days before his Fall show. “I look at clothes in a much more graphic sense—what you place and where you place it.”

His inspirations for the season range from the Austrian architect Adolf Loos (who famously wrote that ornamentation slows down culture) to the famous inscription at the Temple of Delphi, “Nothing in excess.” That helps to explain the subtle touches, like traditional broguing around the torso of a burgundy leather dress. That’s a detail that brings to mind the tattoos in his Spring ’11 collection. “The hand is always the same, so whatever it draws comes from the same mind,” he says. “And there is something about the things that surround you all your life.” Continue Reading “LFW Preview: Marios Schwab” »

London Goes In Search of Halston


There was a conspicuous lack of anyone who could pass for that mythical beast, the Halstonette, in the noticeably young audience for the first U.K. screening of Ultrasuede: In Seach of Halston on Monday night at the Electric Cinema on Portobello Road. Andrea Dellal had fond memories of escorting the legendary designer round Rio, but surely she was a mere child at the time. Co-host of the evening Nicky Haslam also had some personal—though not particularly favorable—memories to share. But Halston’s best buddy Bianca Jagger was out of town—dommage!—and Liza Minnelli, André Leon Talley, and Pat Cleveland, all of whom lend major heft to the film, were hardly likely to cross the pond for such an intimate event.

So it was down to director Whitney Sudler-Smith to ruminate on Halston’s significance, which was perfectly appropriate because Ultrasuede is from the documentary school of Roger and Me, where the filmmaker’s search for his subject turns him into the main character. Like a perverse imp on the director’s shoulder, Nellee Hooper was insisting his friend made the film to meet girls, but Sudler-Smith brushed off the suggestion. He said fashion interested him as a fascinating subject that he knew little about and Halston seemed like a good way to educate himself. He certainly casts himself as a good listener as his pundits weigh in on disco, decadence, and the unholy excesses that eventually upended Halston’s career. If Ultrasuede doesn’t exactly throw new light on the decline and fall, it had more than enough “previously unseen footage” to entertain an audience that included Sara Parker Bowles, Dan Macmillan, Sophia Hesketh, Stephen Jones, and Amanda Sheppard, also co-hosting. “It’s new Halston,” said Kinvara Balfour (pictured, with Sudder-Smith), another of the evening’s hosts, of her drapey gold jumpsuit. “I tried on a vintage piece and it just didn’t feel as good.” Such heresy would be music to the ears of new Halston designer Marios Schwab, who was part of a design contingent in attendance, along with Matthew Williamson and Issa’s Daniella Issa Helayel. She’s spent the last week fending off questions about Kate Middleton’s wedding dress (not to mention seeing knockoffs of the one she wore to announce her engagement sell for as little as £16 at her local Tesco). “Tonight, I just want to speak about me, myself, and I,” she said with a laugh, though the very notion of a Brazilian designer making the wedding dress of the future Queen of England is radical enough to merit the fuss.

Another radical sight—Giovanna Battaglia in Uggs. She’s broken two toes and is off heels for the foreseeable future. Gio in Uggs? What’s next? Anna Dello Russo in chinos?

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Lulu Kennedy’s Perfect Ten


For a decade now, Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East has incubated some impressive talent: Gareth Pugh, Marios Schwab, Richard Nicoll, Roksanda Ilincic, and Henry Holland have all come through the one-time raver’s runway training ground. Kennedy commemorated the milestone Thursday night with a raucous launch party at Harvey Nichols for Lulu & Co—a capsule collection by ten of her designer discoveries, each of whom culled one standout dress from Fashion East’s memorable archives for the occasion.

The collection, which will be available at last night’s party locale, got a test run on the designers’ boldfaced friends. Kennedy modeled Jonathan Saunders; Holland paired up with Pixie Geldof; Nicoll outfitted Josephine de la Baume; and Poppy Delevingne poured herself into Gareth Pugh. Kennedy, quizzed on the past decade’s highlights, had trouble stopping at just one. “When Gareth’s ‘lit up’ dress came down the runway at the Electric Ballroom…and when Aggy opened Henry Holland’s show in leather hot pants, with the crowd going nuts…and then, of course, when Victoria Beckham actually turned up at my show.”

At the after-party at Glo Glo’s, Lulu & Co’s designers presented Kennedy with the evening’s anniversary present, a patchwork quilt of fabric from each designer stitched together by Louise Gray. “Somehow, I can’t imagine sleeping in it,” Kennedy said. “I think it will be framed and hung up for all to see at Fashion East. That just seems right.”

Photo: Courtesy of Lulu & Co

Erdem Takes The Prize


The British Fashion Council announced today that Erdem Moralioglu is the winner of the first BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund Award, beating out fellow Britons Angel Jackson, Christopher Kane, Clements Ribeiro, E. Tautz, Marios Schwab, Nicholas Kirkwood, and Richard Nicoll. The award comes with a £200,000 prize and access to mentors across the industry. “I am thrilled to be the winner of the BFC/Vogue Fashion Fund. It is an honor,” the Turkish-born designer said simply.

Click here for a look back through Erdem’s recent collections.

Photo: David Fisher/Rex/Rex USA