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April 20 2014

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7 posts tagged "Mark Borthwick"

Victoria Bartlett Will Get Unhinged in Milan

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At the VPL show almost two weeks ago, many of the models came down the runway with abstract, hand-crocheted accessories by the young designer Aran Baik. Based on anatomical drawings, the accessories served to outline and extend the skeletal lines of the models’ bodies—ribcage, hip bone, shoulder blade. The pieces spoke to the collection’s theme, Atlas of Anatomy, but they also worked as an elegant summary of the obsessions VPL designer Victoria Bartlett has nurtured since she launched in 2003. Bartlett’s fascination with the body is frank. Her collections have often seemed like the product of a dialogue between a choreographer and an X-ray technician. Bartlett has opened that conversation up to a variety of collaborators. Baik was one of several designers who participated in VPL’s recent Spring show. And over the years, she has worked closely with many artists, most of whom delivered work to VPL UNHINGED, a retrospective opening on September 27 at the Dopolavaro Gallery in Milan. The show will feature new work from some—including Mark Borthwick, Jack Pierson, and Jessica Metrani—while others, like Steven Klein and Collier Schorr, are contributing iconic pieces from their archives. Here, Bartlett talks to Style.com about tap-dancing twins, time capsules, and exposing what lies beneath.

VPL UNHINGED opens toward the end of fashion week in Milan. Was that timing coincidental, or did the gallery intend for the show to find a place on the calendar?

Actually, they invited me to do an exhibition in June, around the time of the men’s collections in Milan. But I was just too busy, so we pushed it back. The intention was never to be part of fashion week, but more like something at the edges of it. We also felt like the show couldn’t just be about clothes. This is more like a dialogue with VPL, in different mediums—photography, painting, etching, sculpture, film. We’re going to have a performance, too, the night of the opening. Everyone in the group will be wearing one-of-a-kind showpieces.

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Mark Borthwick’s Not In Fashion Party

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In the gallery space of the Ofr bookstore in the Marais, photographer Mark Borthwick sat amongst an assortment of assembled objets: daffodils, oranges, chimes, large photos, small drawings, a toy dinosaur, a guitar, an amp, a sheepskin throw—it looked more like an altar than an exhibition, and Borthwick was happy to be in the mix. “Collectively, it brings me a lot of joy,” he said of the pieces he’d brought together for his small show. As for the course of the evening? “Whatever happens, happens,” he offered. Officially, the occasion was the release of Borthwick’s book not in fashion, published by Rizzoli and featuring early photos for Purple and Self Service of then-relative-unknowns Stella Tennant, Chloë Sevigny, and Angela Lindvall, as well as personal work. Wednesday was the opening gambit in a series of wine-and-song-filled evenings stretching into next week, starring eclectic gatherings and performances by Borthwick and friends—among them Lou Doillon, whom Borthwick shot for Vanessa Bruno’s spring catalogue. “Mark is very open to things; he does things in a humble way, with a different perspective,” Maria Cornejo, Borthwick’s wife, said. “Like with his pictures—they are always directional, but in his own way. Then he gets copied years later.” As onetime Paris residents, this was something of a homecoming for the couple, Cornejo said, with an extra reason to celebrate: Her collection will make its French début this season at Joseph on the Avenue Montaigne, and star in a pop-up boutique happening in June.

Photo: Mark Borthwick