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August 22 2014

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12 posts tagged "Mark Fast"

The Weight Debate

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From Kate Upton’s curves (left), which are flaunted and lauded on the cover of British Vogue this month, to the controversy surrounding Karlie Kloss’s photoshopped ribs in the October 2012 issue of Numero, models’ weight is once again (or should that be “as always”?) a hot topic. Today’s Wall Street Journal features a story about Israel’s new law, which will both ban models with a BMI of less than 18.5 and require magazines to reveal whether models have been photoshopped to look thinner. The story also notes that the CFDA has not tried to implement such regulations, although they did create a health initiative in 2007 and, according to CEO Steven Kolb, continue to promote education and awareness about eating disorders. Fashion shows in Madrid and Milan have, like Israel, imposed a ban on models with BMIs under 18 and 18.5, respectively. But these guidelines are difficult to adhere to and gray areas exist even within the hard-and-fast measurements. In the same vein, Refinery 29 reported today, with some optimism, that a Plus-Size Fashion Weekend will take place in London during the upcoming women’s collections. However, the piece also recalls when, during his Spring ’09 and Fall ’10 shows, Mark Fast put plus-size models (like Crystal Renn, who, by human standards, is hardly plus size at all) in ill-fitting garments on his runway. With the exception of a guest appearance from Laura Catterall during his Fall ’11 show, curvy catwalkers haven’t been featured on Fast’s runway since.

Photo: Dave M. Benett/amfAR12/ Getty Images

Faster Than Fast

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“It’s like Wolford on acid,” Mark Fast said last night at Milk Studios, where he was presenting his new diffusion line, Faster. This was Fast’s first NYFW event, taking place just about a week before his main collection runway show in London. While Faster has been around for a few seasons now, the designer’s reason for showing in New York this time was his new capsule shoe collection with Aldo (the brand also sponsored the presentation), which featured the same perforated styles you find in his clothes. Models dressed in Fast’s fine-gauge knit dresses, bodysuits, and separates in a variety of electric shades-orange sherbet, sea foam, persimmon, and ultraviolet-looked alien-esque (“a new hybrid of women,” he called them) while posing android-style on a turntable platform. Faster has the same DNA as the designer’s namesake collection, which takes an innovative, couture approach to sweater dressing. With fringe, perforated holes, cutouts, and cobweb mesh, Fast’s body-con looks (touted as “luxury basics”) aren’t for everyone, but look killer onstage, as seen on a pre-pregnant BeyoncĂ© at this summer’s Glastonbury music festival. Faster is slightly more accessible price-wise, but made for the same girl who wants to make a bold sweater statement.

Photo: Courtesy of Faster

In Milan, Sci-Fi, Chiseled Male Models,
And Disco—Direct From The Church

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Francesca Versace—yes, of those Versaces—writes in from her jaunts around Milan fashion week.


There’s nothing quite like the feeling of fashion week in Milan, and there’s definitely an electricity in the air today. I love to take a moment and observe the madness at Café Cova—you can watch trends start to happen before your eyes. For this one week, everyone is trying desperately to outdo one another. The sidewalks and streets are the greatest runways of all.

I take in a few shows—the sci-fi looks at Ermanno Scervino, the English roses at Luisa Beccaria—and stop by my friend Kristina’s for a hush-hush fitting before she presents her collection. Then it’s off to the Zegna 100th anniversary party with my father. I see the lovely Anna Zegna, who reminds me that her first and only job outside her family’s company was her time with my late uncle Gianni. I do a tour of the gorgeous new store, designed by the brilliant Peter Marino—and stop to check out some of the chiseled Zegna-clad male models along the way. A man really cannot go wrong with a Zegna suit; it is the utmost mark of elegance and quality.

Finally, I rush over on my bicycle to see a former classmate of mine from Saint Martins, Mark Fast, and his super-hip, super-fun collection for the Italian label Pinko (pictured). Although we’re in a church, the mood is pure disco and high-octane glam. I love that Mark can maintain his vision yet breathe new life into an existing brand—that’s the beauty of these collaborations. The new and the old colliding—on the stores, on the streets, and on the runways.

Photo: Courtesy Photo

Noticed In London: Fringe Benefits

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London fashion week begins its comedown tonight—tomorrow, the men get their day—and over the course of the shows, we’ve noticed something unexpected: the gangbusters return of fringe. We’ll leave it to the sages to explain why, but at labels as disparate as Holly Fulton (above left), Mark Fast (above right), Nicole Farhi (below left), Giles (below center), and Matthew Williamson (below right), the strands have been swinging. Ironically, the young-designers’ lab Fashion Fringe, which stages a seasonal show of the best and brightest of the up-and-comers, featured no fringe at all. Turns out not all prophecies are self-fulfilling.

Photos: All Photos by Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com except Nicole Farhi by Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.com

Get Katrantzou, Raeburn, And Faster, Faster

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We confess: It’s hard to click through our complete London coverage without getting a little covetous of the goods hitting the English runways. But good news has arrived for stateside shoppers looking to get their hands on some U.K. goods: The British Fashion Council and the e-retailer thecorner.com have teamed up to offer some of the best of British fashion on sale online. Five emerging London designers—all from the BFC’s LONDON show ROOMS initiative—are offering Fall pieces on a dedicated mini-site on The Corner, just in time for LFW. Get your Faster by Mark Fast, Christopher Raeburn, Todd Lynn, Michael Lewis London, and Mary Katrantzou (including this eye-popping print dress, left), as well as exclusive video content from the designers themselves. Shipping, it goes without saying, is worldwide. If you can’t get to London, at least you can get London to you.

Photo: Marcio Madeira / FirstView.com