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August 31 2014

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12 posts tagged "Mark Fast"

The Neo-Knitwear Age Is Already Upon Us

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Some trends are easy to identify because they come at you all at once, like ultra-mega-platforms and leather leggings. But other trends mark eras. They’re usually the ones that sneak up on you. Take knits: Word that up-and-coming London designer Mark Fast would be designing a range for Topshop arrived on the same day this week it was announced that H&M would be collaborating with the legendary Sonia Rykiel.

Together, it amounted to a ratification of the emerging interest in knitwear dressing. Rykiel, of course, essentially invented sweater dressing. Fast, on the other hand, is one of several young designers giving knits a major rethink. Rodarte and Ohne Titel are among that same group. Fast’s super-sexy knit dresses are closer in spirit to vintage Hervé Léger bandage dresses than they are to Rykiel’s striped jumpers. (He’d probably die before he made a cardigan.) But as far apart as the two designers may be aesthetically, their work starts with the same length of yarn.

Why the sudden passion for knits? We posed the question to Louise Goldin, whose eponymous line is based on knits she drapes and pleats like fabric. This season, she also debuted her capsule collection for old-school cashmere brand Ballantyne, where she’s now creative director. (Here’s one look pictured at left.) “Why anyone else gets into knits, I can’t say, because I got into it by accident,” Goldin explained. “When I started school, I was encouraged to explore knits because working with them, you can learn about everything. Draping, patternmaking, textile development.” Goldin continued that she’s not trying to replace Ballantyne’s traditionalist approach with anything too avant-garde—at least not for now. “Before I do anything else, I want to play with the brand’s blends, and their knitting techniques,” she noted. “That is the key difference. When you’re working with a knit, you’re the one creating the fabric. You start from scratch.”

Mark Fast’s Social Web Parties at Browns Focus

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Anyone having trouble finding the party Browns Focus threw for designer Mark Fast last night could have simply followed the trail of spiderweb-legging wearers beating a path to its door. Fast, for those unfamiliar, specializes in knits that bind to the body like a corset, and his leggings, marked by a line of cutouts down the side, are pretty much the season’s must-have, over here in London. Natalia Vodianova, Dree Hemingway, and Alice Dellal—three of the lovely ladies who came out to celebrate Fast’s show earlier in the day—were among the very few guests not wearing the leggings. Happily for them, however, there were pairs handed out in the gift bag. Hemingway, for her part, had just arrived that morning from New York; Dellal had come back three days prior, but claimed that she was still fighting the fashion-week jet lag. “It’s such a rush over there,” she said, as Kills frontwoman Alison Mosshart took to the decks. “And the traffic! I got to Alex Wang’s show too late to go in,” she added. “I guess that makes me a bad friend.” We’re sure all has been forgiven.

Photo: Courtesy of Browns