9 posts tagged "Markus Lupfer"
Designers have increasingly taken to using videos to share their latest collections, so in response, Style.com launched its first-ever Video Fashion Week last season. Today marks the start of the second VFW, beginning with Markus Lupfer. Click here to read the review, see the complete collection, and watch his new video. Coming up, expect to see films from Creatures of Comfort, Sophomore, Rogan, A.P.C., Madewell, and more. Check back daily throughout the week.
Markus Lupfer is on a quest to decipher “The Puzzle of the Mysterious Mind.” Helping to solve it? Florence Welch, Sadie Frost, London It girl Mary Charteris, and set designer Gary Card. They all star in the designer’s new video to spotlight his Resort ’12 collection, directed by DJ and filmmaker Tabitha Denholm, who has also created music videos for Florence + the Machine. “Tabitha told me about this BBC documentary she saw from the sixties that was all about manipulation of the body and the mind, the ability to change peoples’ perceptions,” Lupfer said. “It really stems from that.” The casting was meant to evoke the wide range of women who can wear the label, and according to Denholm, each brought her own special something. “All of the girls’ personalities seemed to match their characters so well—no one needed to act for this one,” she said. (Good news, that; you can change perceptions, but it’s harder to make actresses of out It girls and rock stars.)
As for the collection itself, Lupfer brought his customer exactly what he does best, notably his kitschy knits. “It’s the essence of Markus Lupfer, with a Resort spin,” he explained. T-shirt sweaters and dresses are adorned with faux cross-body purses and sunglasses that, from a distance, appear to be functional. And nodding at current trends, there are plenty of stripes, including a few quirky takes on Breton stripe in sequins.
Recognize those lips on Markus Lupfer’s Fall ’11 sweater?
“They are Lara Stone’s; I was going for the gap-tooth look,” Lupfer says of his latest take on his now-infamous “laughing lips” sweater—the designer’s leitmotif. The lips (as well as his other merino jumpers with cheeky slogans like “Sunday Best” and “Oh, You Pretty Young Thing”) are mainstays of the German designer’s collections. They make for a cool-girl look that’s won him legions of fans, including Gwen Stefani, Rihanna, and Lily Allen. Fellow appreciators Olivia Palermo, Edie Campbell, and Amanda Harlech’s daughter, Tallulah Ormsby-Gore, showed up to take in the scene at his Champagne tea party-turned-presentation, one that had Lanvin model Jono and Mary Charteris at the decks.
Models lounged around in Fall’s key pieces, including a fox-print silk dress juxtaposed with an edgy anthracite tailored jacket (“Country mouse meets city mouse,” Lupfer says). The carrot-leg silk trouser with the tweed waist detail looked effortless with a chestnut shearling jacket. A granddad knit cardigan worked well with a sharply tailored lace skirt, all complemented by tulle underpinnings and spotted-and-striped tights. The designer, who has collaborated with Topshop in the past, has a new partnership coming up, this time with a very famous artist. He’s keeping mum on the details for now.
But forget famous collaborators for the moment—Lupfer is doing plenty well all on his own. Hong Kong and Chinese sales are surging, and Lane Crawford recently dedicated a space for him in their online shop. And this year Claudia Schiffer was snapped by the paps wearing one of Lupfer’s camo-print sweaters. “She didn’t call us—she just bought the pieces retail,” Lupfer says happily of his countrywoman. “How great is that?”
“You can’t send ten jumpers down the runway,” said Markus Lupfer last week, while breakfasting on eggs and soldiers at New York’s Cafe Cluny. The German-born designer was explaining that he hasn’t shown in three years, investing the time, energy, and expense that used to go toward the catwalk back into the collection. The result? His business has taken off. His clothes are in 150 stores, including Net-a-Porter, Harvey Nichols, and Shopbop.com, and he has the production capability to do both pre-fall and Resort. “The sales I used to do in a year, I now get three times that in a single season,” he said. But the London designer isn’t forsaking the runway entirely. His long-view plan is actually quite interesting for a small operation: to focus on building sales for five, perhaps up to ten, years and return to showing as a big operation.
During this past London fashion week, Lupfer’s alternative for his collection (inspired by the film White Mischief) was a party-slash-presentation hosted by Lydia Hearst, who just happened to show up at his studio for a lookbook casting in August, among other non-heiress models. “At first I didn’t even know who she was, when she came in,” admits Lupfer. “But everything looked great on her, so we decided to throw a party.” They did so in laid-back manner, with Alexa Chung and her boyfriend, Alex Turner, deejaying plus a surprise birthday cake for Hearst. Lupfer’s latest news is his debut men’s collection, exclusive to Harvey Nichols this season. The designer reports it’s doing well among guys and—no surprise—female clients, too. Looking at his slouchy leopard sweatshirt, we can understand why.