2 posts tagged "Martin Greenfield"
The legendary Martin Greenfield is basically America’s tailor of record. It’s the reason that designers including Band of Outsiders’ Scott Sternberg, Rag & Bone’s David Neville and Marcus Wainwright, and Paul Marlow of Loden Dager turn to him (and now, his sons and business partners) when they need quality work for their labels. It’s also the reason that menswear journalists and editors start calling—in my experience, at least, the man doesn’t email—whenever a story on tailoring beckons. So many have that I felt reasonably certain that I would never need another Greenfield profile—until I read Ned Martel’s in the Washington Post this week. It offers up some fun new details, including that Greenfield and his sons-turned-business-partners made a few visits to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue during President Obama’s tenure. (Greenfield doesn’t name names who don’t name him first, but he has made suits for several past presidents, Mayor Bloomberg, and more.) But it also goes deeper than any Greenfield homage I’ve read about his life before WWII, his experience in the concentration camps, and how he eventually became an open secret in Washington among legions of ill-suited politicos. And on this matter, there appears to be that rarest thing of all: bipartisan agreement.
What do Paul Newman, Colin Powell, Mayor Bloomberg, and Jimmy Fallon have in common? They all entrust the same man to make their suits: Martin Greenfield. The designer has been in the bespoke business since he mended an SS officer’s shirt in a concentration camp during WWII. Flash-forward 60-something years, and this tailoring veteran is still at it, working the floor of his family-operated factory in East Williamsburg, Brooklyn (let’s call him the “original Bushwick hipster”), making made-to-measure pieces for cool labels including Band of Outsiders and Rag & Bone. “I need to touch every piece and make sure everything—the buttonholes, the lapels, the shoulders—is perfect,” Greenfield told Style.com at a dinner in New York earlier this week, celebrating the launch of his latest womenswear collaboration with Edition 01, an online boutique that curates limited-edition capsule collections.
Though womenswear is completely uncharted territory for Greenfield, he dove right into the project. “Women don’t have the opportunity to buy quality clothing like they did before everything was done by machine,” he said. “Men only have a few pieces, a few silhouettes. So there tends to be more attention to detail and fabric.” Greenfield turned his exacting eye to crafting four jackets, each of which was named after a different muse. Two of the most eye-catching styles are the crisp, white Emmanuelle [Alt] (pictured)—an ultra-slim jacket with one button, and the Sofia [Coppola] in heathered gray, which has a slightly slouchier fit. The blazers ($850 to $1,000) premiere today on Edition 01 and Lyst.com.