10 posts tagged "Martin Margiela"
It’s finally happened: VFiles revealed today that it snagged the first-ever on-screen interview with the elusive visionary that is Martin Margiela, who’s been essentially off the radar since leaving his eponymous maison in 2009. Get ready for your brain to explode, and watch the clip here. This might be the best April Fool’s prank anyone’s pulled all day.
Maison Martin Margiela has always been a secretive house. Its labels are nothing more than white stitches; its namesake designer, who left the house in 2009, has been photographed only about twice; and its current creative team is completely anonymous. Now the ever-provocative clothier is joining forces with Berlin-based minimalist eyewear brand Mykita for a special capsule collection, which will be unveiled tomorrow at Mykita’s Soho flagship. “The conversations with Maison Martin Margiela began in June 2012,” recalled Mykita CEO and creative director Moritz Krueger. “For us, a collaboration is like an exothermic reaction, where we are mixing the DNA of two companies as ingredients together in a test glass: The result is a truly new matter.”
Krueger was shy to reveal the details of their collaborative process (no Margiela inner workings coming out here). He would talk about the results: two design groups—the Essential, which Krueger described as “historical eyeglass forms translated into the contemporary context,” and the DUAL, the more deconstructed of the two. “The glasses are not designed for any one person in mind,” explained Krueger of the shades, which, priced at $550, debut exclusively here. “None of the Maison’s or Mykita’s creations have that purpose. The Mykita x Maison Martin Margiela collection boasts a whole range of glasses, from ultralight metallic structures to thicker, cat-eye or round acetate frames.” Available at Mykita and MMM stores beginning April 17, these shades will definitely help you achieve some of that Margiela mystique.
Type “Kostas Murkudis” into Style.com’s search engine, and just two results pop up. The Berlin-based designer—who worked for many years alongside Helmut Lang, and who has run his own eponymous label since1994—signed on as creative director of the German sportswear brand Closed last year. He won’t be operating under the radar much longer. On Friday, Murkudis teamed with his longtime friend, the artist Carsten Nicolai, to present his first capsule collection for Closed, dubbed Skywalk, at Gallery Weekend Berlin. Nicolai provided the video, a hypnotic twelve-minute clip culled from twelve years of photographs he took from the window seats of airplanes, and Murkudis contributed the clothes, a utilitarian range of pieces, for both women and men, inspired by a vintage aviator jumpsuit. There are jersey tees and button-front shirts covered with zips and, of course, a flight suit, but the stars are the trench, made from a denim-like twill fused with superfine mousseline (above), and a leather bomber that reverses to the same twill.
The jackets and coats in his main collection for Closed are likewise worth getting excited about. The thirty-five-year-old brand, which at different times was headed up by François Girbaud and Martin Margiela, has long been denim-focused. “I want to go back to the roots, to make clear what Closed was,” Murkudis told Style.com. “It was the first brand to do designer denim; there was just Levi’s, Lee, Wrangler. The mix of denim, utilitarian, and sporty elements is quite key to Closed’s DNA.” Look for Murkudis’ debut collection for Closed when Fall collections begin arriving at Fred Segal and American Rag in Los Angeles, and for Skywalk at Project No. 8 in New York. And don’t miss our Gallery Weekend Berlin photo report.
If Hermès has become a byword in and of itself for luxury, part credit goes to Véronique Nichanian, the house’s longtime menswear designer. Her colleagues on the women’s side—including Martin Margiela (1997-2003) and Jean Paul Gaultier (2003-2010)—have come and gone, but Nichanian has been at her post for some 21 years, during which time she’s injected a dose of levity into the house’s super-rich offerings and, over time, introduced the world’s first men’s-only Hermès boutique, on Madison Avenue, and a bespoke service that covers everything from suiting to shirting to knitwear. In New York last week to promote the personalized services at the 690 Madison store, Nichanian sat down with Style.com to talk history, longevity, luxury, and the only two bespoke commissions she’s ever turned down.
I hadn’t realized how many years you’ve been with Hermès—21, isn’t it?
Yes, I don’t count. Yes, it’s a long time, it’s a long story—a nice story. A love affair, almost. Still happy.
You’ve seen the menswear business change enormously in that time.
Oh, yes. The business is changing, and men generally speaking are changing.
How has that affected you?
It’s more fun. Everyone’s more interested in the men’s business, how men dress.
Do you feel like it’s changed the way you approach design?
Not at all. I’m still doing the same thing, the same approach, still considering in the same way the men’s universe and trying to propose things which are right for now—modern and exclusive at the same time.
How has the customer changed? You’re now dealing with a business that’s much more global than the one you entered into.
It’s a big business now. But generally speaking, that’s right that men are much more self-confident in the way they want to dress, and feel much more their own personality. They look at the magazines, of course, but they know themselves much more; they want to express their personalities. They’re less focused on having a suit to be serious. [They want] to have their own mix, to choose. They’re much more aware of what different [brand] names propose—different cut, different feelings, different philosophy. I think it’s a question of philosophy when you choose a house more than another one. Continue Reading “Niche Appeal: Two-Plus Decades Of Véronique Nichanian At Hermès” »
After weeks of unseasonably mild weather, the temperatures have dropped in New York in the past few days. And although designer Luis Fernandez is a Miami native, he was on the same page. For his Fall ’12 menswear collection, the Number:Lab designer and CFDA Fashion Incubator (class of 2014) participant was inspired by ice climbing, glacial hiking, and Buckminster Fuller’s “ephemeralization” theory—essentially, doing more with less. The latter academic nod seems to come with the territory; Fernandez is a former architect and likes the clean aesthetics of Martin Margiela, Dries van Noten, and Tomas Maier. But it wasn’t quite the clinical iciness of, say, nineties minimalism. For one, he played with color and texture. The opening number (pictured), an overcoat and trouser ensemble, was cleanly rendered but in a ripe, rich red. Pants were a highlight, and one sharply tailored pair was spliced with gray charcoal in front and navy in back. Another tweed pair had an attractive seam that ran down the front of the leg. Later on, a wool plaid duffel coat in gray stood out. The fabric was given a polyurethane glaze and accessorized by sporty toggle closures, which gave a modern air without feeling too kitschy. Taken as a whole, Fernandez was most effective when the focus was on tailoring and less so when he veered into sporty territory—some pieces had enough visible zippers to be distracting.