8 posts tagged "Martine Rose"
They’re coming…The Spring ’15 menswear shows are upon us, set to kick off in London on June 15, and this season, Fashion East’s Menswear Presentations are back with a bold quartet of up-and-coming brands. On June 16, Lulu Kennedy’s emerging talent initiative will invite jewelry designer Alan Crocetti, textile specialist Edward Crutchley, Fashion East womenswear alums Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida of Marques’Almeida, and special guest Martine Rose to show off their latest menswear offerings. “We love putting on the presentations—everything from curating the mix of talented designers both brand-new and established, to watching guests explore the venue,” Kennedy told Style.com. “The way the designers show off their work is always highly creative and individual. You get a real sense of their ‘worlds,’ and unlike a catwalk show, they can be front-of-house, chatting to journalists and buyers and enjoying the atmosphere—which is always party-like!” This season will be more “party-like” than ever, thanks to Fashion East’s ongoing partnership with Red Bull Catwalk Studio and a special performance from producer and rapper Rejjie Snow. But don’t be mistaken—Fashion East isn’t just about a good time and bumpin’ beats. If the success of its menswear alums like Craig Green, Sibling, Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen, and Lou Dalton is any indication, Kennedy’s platform is the premier place to spot the fashion stars of tomorrow.
The new collection by London-based designer Martine Rose, which debuts exclusively here, will hit Opening Ceremony this week. Though Rose is technically a menswear designer, the Opening Ceremony honchos decided to treat the line as unisex when they picked it up for their stores. And indeed, Rose’s ruffled jackets and roughed-up denim have an appeal that’s pretty genderless: Witness this shoot by Rose’s longtime friend Tyrone Lebon of his girlfriend, Adwoa Aboah, kicking around in some of the looks that will be on the racks at OC. For her part, Rose has a particular angle on the whole androgyny thing. “I wasn’t interested in androgyny as such,” Rose explained. “I was thinking about men throughout history who have broken the conventional gender rules of clothing, men with an overt sexual energy who used feminine looks to underline their masculinity.” Specifically, Rose added, her muse this season was Rick James. And as for Lebon and Aboah’s gender-bending? It turns out, Rose is plenty used to seeing Aboah in her clothes. “Well,” she says, “she walked in my very first catwalk show…”
The British Fashion Council and Topman have awarded seven up-and-coming talents with NEWGEN Men sponsorship for the Spring ’14 season. First-time honorees include Agi & Sam (designed by Agape Mudmulla and Sam Cotton), Astrid Andersen, and Nasir Mazhar, while Matthew Miller, Lee Roach, Shaun Samson, and Martine Rose are returning NEWGEN veterans. The designers will receive funding to present their lines at the London Collections: Men, which kicks off June 16, and join the ranks of former winners like J.W. Anderson, James Long, and SIBLING.
After a royal kickoff, London Collections: Men (its official, if slightly wordy name) began in earnest this morning.
The first show on the schedule belonged to Lou Dalton, the brassy woman-in-menswear (like her sister-in-arms Martine Rose) who is a promising part of the young London scene. Her futuristic take on tailoring (left)—jackets with inset mesh panels, shirts in classic fabrics like seersucker that billowed like deflated humps behind their wearers, and boxy shorts, worn with trainers and high socks—seemed almost sci-fi, but it had an appealingly dystopic twang. Alexa Chung, who dipped backstage after the show to offer her congratulations, seemed to appreciate it.
And now, as the Pythons used to say, for something completely different. (This is England, after all.) Hackett’s show at the English Opera House drew inspiration from the past, specifically the thirties of Gatsby. That sort of vertigo-inducing 180 from the future to the past and the experimental to the traditional characterized the day and may well characterize the full schedule of collections here in London. In the afternoon, Savile Row opened its many doors, while not far away, Rose made her mark—literally—with outerwear and shirts in neoprene stamped with impressions of her own hands. Continue Reading “Letter From London:
The Men’s Collections, Day 1″ »
“Style is knowing who you are, what you want to say, and not giving a damn.” So said Gore Vidal, yet this statement could easily be applied to the best of the designers at London fashion week’s Man Day.
There was something peculiarly British and personal about much that was on offer this season. Our particular genre of sportswear was mined mercilessly. It is something that many of the young designers showing here were weaned on from school age, and it was always much more about style in its appropriation rather than fashion. Christopher Shannon, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller, and New Power Studio were all treading on this territory. Yet at its best, this initial inspiration took flight into something much less nostalgic and into something much more personal and fashion focused—these are fashion shows and collections, after all—spliced together in a hybridized way to become much more theatrical.
This was true of the best elements in Christopher Shannon’s collection (above), which lifted them away from just going through the sportswear motions of “scally drag.” His tasseled pieces had that decorative and tribal element that was also emerging in many of the shows (he explained he had been looking at the African photography of Pieter Hugo), and his “comb crowns” reinforced this peculiar point. Continue Reading “Jo-Ann Furniss On London’s Man Day” »