71 posts tagged "Mary Katrantzou"
With each new season comes a whole crop of new models to get acquainted with, and what struck us about many of Spring ’14′s rising stars was their interesting names—Drake Burnette (below, left), Binx Walton, Malaika Firth (above, top left), Holly Rose Emery (below, right), and Zlata Mangafic in particular. Their cool monikers only added to their allure during the New York and London shows. Firth is perhaps the most promising fresh face to emerge these past two weeks. We knew the 19-year-old stunner from Kenya (by way of London) would be major when she landed the Prada Fall ’13 campaign (she’s the first black model to do so since Naomi Campbell in 1994, which gave rise to a slew of comparisons to the supe) and walked in the label’s menswear Resort presentation back in June. Firth started her season at Jason Wu, and continued to walk only top-tier shows during NYFW, including Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection, Marc Jacobs, and Proenza Schouler. She kept up the pace across the pond, turning up at Burberry, Christopher Kane, J.W. Anderson, Jonathan Saunders, and Mary Katrantzou.
Other girls who got explosive starts from that Prada menswear runway over the summer include Anna Ewers (above, top right) and Emery. Ewers caught Alexander Wang’s eye (as well as the attention of casting director Anita Bitton) back in February, when she was included in the lineup for his debut Balenciaga collection. Next, the strong German beauty starred in the Resort lookbooks for both Alexander Wang and Balenciaga, so we were hardly surprised to see the designer’s new muse open his Spring ’14 show—the easy, cool hair and makeup were even reportedly inspired by Ewers’ natural look. She went on to do Altuzarra, Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, and Marc Jacobs. Meanwhile, Emery’s career took off during the Fall couture shows, and her Kewpie Doll pout won her spots on Spring catwalks including Jason Wu, Theyskens’ Theory, Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Giles. Another newcomer who has walked all the right runways so far is Kate Goodling (above, bottom left). The second girl out at Alexander Wang, she also appeared at Calvin Klein, Narciso Rodrgieuz, Altuzarra, and Donna Karan. Her all-American appeal will take her far. Ophelie Guillermand (above, bottom right), likewise, made an impact at both Alexander Wang and Calvin Klein. Continue Reading “New Model News From New York and London” »
Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones—the London-based designers behind ready-to-wear label Teatum Jones—respect their moms so much, they’ve built their entire Spring ’14 collection around them. “The story was all about hard-working women who are in a continuous work mode—a woman who rarely rests. She is not a ball-breaker, nor does she need to be praised for her hard graft—she just rolls up her sleeves and gets on with it,” said Teatum during an preview of the collection.
For those not familiar with the Teatum Jones aesthetic, the design duo’s signature has always been eclectic prints, which are meticulously thought out, researched, studied and drawn up by hand. For example, the three-year-old brand’s Spring “tea towel” print was inspired by one of Teatum’s childhood memories. “I have a vivid recollection of my mom cooking and cleaning for us, and she always had a tea towel thrown over her shoulder, which to me represented the ‘just get on with it’ attitude,” Teatum explained. “We used that tea towel detail as a bit of a theme.” The motif is woven into the shoulder detail of a gown and appears on a biker jacket. The collection includes an unexpected floral print, too—unexpected because it features a trompe l’oeil rendering of a wrinkled hand peeking out among the roses.
The two have become textile pioneers, as well. “We really wanted to push the limits of fabrics and what we can do with them. We basically invented this woven jacquard, then laminated it,” said Jones of a series of skirts and tops that felt almost crunchy. “The [people at the] mill in Italy, where we created this fabric, were so excited with it, they have asked us if they could purchase some. That’s gotta be a good sign,” he added. Certainly it is, but that’s not the only sign that the two are posed for a breakout year: Their label is one of the top two sellers on Liberty’s international floor, and won this year’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise New Fashion Ventures award, joining the ranks of previous victors like Erdem, Peter Pilotto, and Mary Katrantzou. Needless to say, the up-and-comers’ future is looking bright.
Have an exclusive first look at the label’s Spring ’14 collection, above, and keep an eye out for the full lineup when it debuts on Sunday at London fashion week.
After taking a break from the backbreaking seasonal cycle for the past year and a half, Michael Angel is reentering the fashion conversation with a new capsule collection for Moda Operandi, which launches Monday. Known best for his innovative digital prints (that’s right, even before the likes of Mary Katrantzou and Peter Pilotto made photo-realistic patterns a must-have), Angel “felt stuck before taking the break. There was so much digital print around me, and I thought, Am I going to go nuts or am I going to evolve the medium?” he told Style.com. “I’ve been able to reexamine why I started designing in the first place, and that reason was to showcase my art, or print. Now I can focus on the prints—which can go on anything, not just clothes, really—and be more adventurous with them. I’m finally doing it for myself, the way I want to do it.”
Angel worked closely with Moda Operandi’s director of ready-to-wear, Indre Rockefeller (she also consulted with several other labels that will be rolling out trunk shows on the site later in the week, including Stella Jean, Del Toro, and La Petite Caravane), to get a sense of the M.O. customer. The new prints were inspired by the human-rights movements of the sixties and seventies, so Angel introduced a vibrant tartan check to capture the rebellious spirit, and mashed it up with kaleidoscopic florals, stained-glass windows, and a ruffle motif that had three-dimensional appeal. The patterns are showcased on straightforward silhouettes such as cap-sleeve shift dresses, curve-hugging pencil skirts, and on-trend strapless crop tops. The unexpected standout was a stark white column gown that was actually lined with one of the prints so it had a subtle opacity to it—just a hint of pattern. While the ready-to-wear will sell at a designer price point ($595 to $2,200), Angel is also debuting a line of printed T-shirts and scarves that will go for less than $250. Continue Reading “Michael Angel is Fit to Print” »
August is the peak of summer, and we’re trying to make the best of it before New York fashion week kicks off in three-and-a-half weeks. That means spending as much time as possible by the water, whether it be a weekend trip to the shore, swimming in a friend’s pool, or even running through sprinklers in the park. Most often, though, we’re parked right here at our Style.com desks, which is why we’re particularly happy about the recent wave of water prints. Dion Lee showed reflective ripples on body-con dresses for Resort, and the Just Cavalli lineup featured an intarsia-knit pullover with a Hokusai-esque rip current. Mary Katrantzou, meanwhile, channeled her inner Bob Ross (The Joy of Painting legend), showing scenic landscape prints, including a river flowing underneath a bridge. Womenswear designers aren’t the only ones taking the plunge. Italo Zucchelli sent oceanic motifs down the Calvin Klein Collection runway, Miuccia Prada put a sinister spin on traditional tropical prints, and the hand-drawn waves that turned up at Kenzo, on button-downs and fold-over bags, will inevitably be popular in the streets.
After fourteen years in their cozy, pink Greene Street store, Kirna Zabête‘s Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley have packed up shop and moved to 477 Broome Street. “We’ve always had the same mission, to sell the most important designers of today and tomorrow, and we just didn’t have space for all of them,” said Easley. “And we were 26 years old when we first moved into that space,” added Buccini. “We’ve grown up, and our tastes have evolved.”
But they haven’t grown up too much—and thank goodness for that. Since it first opened in 1999, Kirna Zabête—its name is derived from the owners’ nicknames—has been known not only for offering a diverse selection of established brands (like Balenciaga, Lanvin, Givenchy, and the like) and hot up-and-comers (Anthony Vaccarello and Wes Gordon among them) but also for its quirky, playful sensibility. This carries over to the new 10,000-square-foot space, which, designed by Steven Gambrel, is what Easley describes as “glamorous Dr. Seuss, but chic.” Having opened on June 20, the Broome Street boutique, which boasts Dorothy Draper-esque black-and-white floors and bright fuchsia pillars, just received its finishing touches (like the six 5-foot-tall chandeliers) this week. As shoppers walk in, they’re confronted with the proprietresses’ favorite bit—a wall of clever phrases, like “Always be yourself, unless you can be a unicorn, then always be a unicorn,” in neon lights. “When you are buying really expensive clothes, you should feel good about it. You should be having a great time,” said Buccini. “So we did our warm, wacky wall of neon lights—the phrases are just funny things that register with us.” Also on their wordy wall is a phonetic spelling of the store’s name. Apparently, after almost a decade and a half of dressing tastemakers worldwide, the pronunciation still gets butchered on a daily basis. “We’ve heard it all,” said Buccini with a laugh. Continue Reading “Kirna Zabête Grows Up, and Out” »