6 posts tagged "Masha Ma"
If you were to pin a picture on fashion’s new global face, it might well be the Beijing-born, London- and Paris-trained designer Masha Ma. A much-noted rising star and 2013 ANDAM finalist, Ma creates an aesthetic that combines “Parisian silhouette with American colors and London detail.” As for her Chinese influences, she says, “That’s what comes from the inside.” No wonder Ma is booming in China and steadily building her business in Europe, with a little help from her friends, including artist Neville Brody and Nadia Swarovski.
Picking up on an art installation they did together a few years back, Brody developed a special Masha Ma font for Spring ’14. He transformed letters into organic patterns that Ma used on a signature white dress, for example, or as details on more practically minded daywear. “It’s a way of showing that luxury is not only the fabrics, it’s the thoughts behind it,” explains Ma. A couple of other cases in point: a dress that looks like embossed leather, but is actually laser-cut, foil-covered lace, and a textured jacket whose fringe is made of cassette tape (“we found it on eBay. It’s actually really expensive”). Thanks to Swarovski’s ongoing support, Ma will be on stage again next month at Runway Rocks in Shanghai. In fact, that partnership has been so successful that Ma is set to launch a jewelry collection with the company next spring. “It won’t be too shiny. I wanted to do something subtle,” she said.
AMI‘s Alexandre Mattiussi won this year’s ANDAM Fashion Prize in Paris yesterday, beating out an international list of contenders that included Olympia Le-Tan, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Iris Van Herpen, Yang Li, and Masha Ma. Mattiussi will receive 250,000 euros and mentoring from Renzo Rosso. ANDAM’s First Collection Prize went to Christine Phung. She’ll take home 75,000 euros. At the cocktail party that followed the competition, Mattiussi revealed that he and Phung were in the same class at France’s Duperré School. Mattiussi does menswear and Phung women’s, but they took similar paths to launching their own lines, apprenticing at different houses—Givenchy and Marc Jacobs for his part, and Christophe Lemaire, Chloé, Vanessa Bruno, Lacoste, and Dior for hers. An award ceremony will take place on October 3, during Paris Fashion Week.
“I always like to do fun, quirky things,” said Olympia Le-Tan, the French designer best known for her clever, literary handbags. Having presented her Bavarian-inspired Fall 2013 ready-to-wear collection in Paris’ Museum of Hunting and Nature last March, Le-Tan wanted to incorporate the space, which she recalls was filled with “heads of deer and things like that,” into her lookbook. Shot by Yannis Vlamos, Le-Tan’s Fall 2013 posters feature her Germanic pinup wares topped with drawings of various fauna heads—think foxes, deer, and bears—all of which were penned by her father, famed French illustrator Pierre Le-Tan. “We share a similar creative vision,” said the designer of her pops, who also creates the prints for her collections. “And I must say, I really like the smiley face he did (above). That was a bit of a liberty he took.”
In addition to the animal visages, Le-Tan’s lookbook boasts images snapped by Ellen von Unwerth (above), who, in part, influenced the sexed-up looks. “I thought the clothes were very her,” the designer offered. At the moment, Le-Tan is holed up in her Paris studio, working on her Spring collection, as well as her portfolio for the ANDAM competition—she was nominated for the coveted prize earlier this year and will compete against Alexandre Mattiussi, Masha Ma, Iris van Herpen, and others on July 4. “I’m nervous and excited,” she told Style.com. “I really don’t like losing, so I’m working very hard to make sure that I don’t.”
Considering the winner receives a cool 250,000 euros and a two-season mentorship from Italian fashion tycoon Renzo Rosso, the ANDAM Fashion Award is one of the most coveted in the biz. And today, the group announced the seven finalists being considered for the 2013 prize. This year, AMI designer Alexandre Mattiussi, the ever-quirky Olympia Le-Tan (left), Yang Li, Pedro Lourenço, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Masha Ma, and conceptual couturier Iris van Herpen will be competing for the honor. The winner, whose spoils will also include his or her Spring ’14 collection being sold in Canadian department store Hudson’s Bay Company, 10,000 euros worth of Swarovski Crystals to use on his or her Spring ’14 collection, and support from Fashion GPS over the next two years, will be chosen by a panel of industry insiders—including Colette’s Sarah Andelman, Humberto Leon, Paris Vogue‘s Emmanuelle Alt, and Style.com‘s executive editor Nicole Phelps—in Paris on July 4. Previous winners include Anthony Vaccarello, Giles Deacon, Richard Nicoll, and Gareth Pugh.